Saturday, 27 August 2011

To wrap up a decent summer...

Time feels like it's running out, fast. There's so much i want to do, both established routes and the FA's we're desperate to get done while we are both based in the Moors.

Established Routes:

1. Magic in the Air - I'll happily tick this with the siderunner at E5. If it feels nice, then i'd be interested in the actual line, which without side runner is E6/7   - Done with E5 side runners. Awesome route!

2. Stratagem - The E4/5 testpiece of Ravenscar is off putting as it's awkward and hard and easy to blow at the top - which i hate.

3. Hanging at High Noon - E4 slabby wall at High Crag. Steve and Karin's route that gets the stars, but will need a damn good clean! Might try to get some action shots of Warrior too? - Got Warrior shots and found a project

4. A Reach Too Far - The E2 6a (1pt aid) was freed by Steve Crowe and Karin Magog and is rated at ***. This esoteric gem has to be on the list, will be very interesting to see the how the quality is!

5. Farndale Fayre - Steve Crowes' E5 arete. Short in height but big in impact. You get a good photo to, if I can get the bottle and a 3rd person for photos! Don't think i have time to get stoked for Pippi or Scut de scun Ai. - Done, headpoint after being shown the sequence by Steve.

6. Grand Master Flash - Bouldery then thin up top. I must be able to give this a good go onsight now? Given E5 but has been proposed to be an E4.. not sure about this though?

7. Pyscho Syndicate - Extremely thin and very bouldery. Given 7a back in the day of 7b's due to sustained nature by the F.A and described as the 'hardest move in the world' (at the time) by R. Fawcett on a repeat. It is now graded 6b, but can only be desribed as nails!

8. Time Captain, Love or Confusion, Res Publica, Cardiac Arrest, Teesside Twitcher and Three Screaming Popes would be excellent too - far fetched though! - Did the Web - E5 6a**

First Ascents:

1. Otter Direct - The blunt rib at Danby is my project!. Currently the direct start to the 'Otter Wilderness Route' is regarded by myself and Franco as one of the very boldest routes in the Moors. The climbing sees a crux at around 4 metres at 6b. With sustained top end 5c above. There is no gear and the fall is doubled by the cliff below the route which has an ominous hole too... E7 6b.  - Done. 'Howl Psyche' E7 6b*

2. Vulcan Arete and Moose Wall - Franco's projects but they require time and attention from me too. Danby will be a ridiculously well routed crag in the high grades when achieved. Jungle Grooves could go too but at E6 6a, it might be a straight choice between Otter and Jungle in terms of not taking too many risks...
Jungle Grooves climbed at E6 6a by Franco, now called 'The Battle for Tripoli' also did Franco's Wall project 'Die By the Sword' - E7 6c!

3. Kay Nest Wall - I've not really looked at it in regard to free ascents, but i've heard it's E7 6c, well protected by original, hand drilled minature bolts which may or may not hold... Finishes with a dyno to an edge or something horrid.

4. The White Groove - Hopefully the coastal super route, at a run out and sustained 6b this is considered E7. It just needs a couple of days dry weather and then a warm, full day as it's a bit of a drive from the main moors. - Given another clean and sorted a sequence. Tricky, physical climbing leading to a bold top section.

5. Puma Wall - The wide wall, with a break at half height on Lion Buttress. It was attempted by Franco in the dark and he said it would go. Climbing is top end 6b with good gear - a well protected tester. E4 6b is a tentative guess. - (DONE!) - Mane Vision E5 6c

6. Otter Arete - The left arete of the newly discovered Otter Hill Bastion - bold and probably E4+

I will not do all of this, but it would be excellent to do a handful of each list! And the rest will have to be done whenever i return in the future! Stoked.


Dave Warburton said...

'Puma Wall' is Done - E5 6c and called 'Mane Vision'. It's desperate, thin but well protected. Excellent moves and a bit scary at the top!

Franco Cookson said...