Franco invited his fellow Manchester Uni climber Jack Metcalfe, up to the Moors for a day of boshing out our recent developments at Danby. Jack was psyched and laden with 4 mats between us, we had a line-up for what was going to get done.
Jack warmed up with a swift and assured onsight of 'Jungle Drum' - E4 6a**, confirming the grade and quality and also that myself and Franco were right in downgrading after the discovery of the 'easier' start. Cracking route though, get out there and get on it.
We then moved onto the current Danby development centre, 'The Ravine' where myself and Jack were stoked to repeat Franco's, 'Chocolate Moose' - E5 6c*. Jack quickly figured out a sequence and was soon 'boshing' his way up the larger holds at the top of the arete and pulled through the horrific top out. I then managed the same feat after 2 or 3 false starts and a jump off the top out... thankfully the 4 mats were put to good use and the manner we ascended the route was deemed a highball Font 6c+ and after contemplation the grade of E4 6b*** was considered correct but for once it appears this arete is probably best approached above a stack of pads!
Franco then showed Jack his two current projects, the blunt rib and the 'E7' arete, which he felt wasn't far away from being completed.
The final actions of the day were a quick, infact flash, of 'Body Torque' (font 7b/7b+) by Jack. A very impressive ascent, quite faultless and quite useful as it was midgey are fook up there in the windless conditions!
Excellent day out, good to have the quality and grade comparison from Jack and hopefully this may spur a few more folk to repeat or go searching for FA's too.
Another Danby day out, with Franco, Dave and Jack from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.
Jack warmed up with a swift and assured onsight of 'Jungle Drum' - E4 6a**, confirming the grade and quality and also that myself and Franco were right in downgrading after the discovery of the 'easier' start. Cracking route though, get out there and get on it.
 |
| Jack, cruising the Jungle Drum (E4) onsight. |
We then moved onto the current Danby development centre, 'The Ravine' where myself and Jack were stoked to repeat Franco's, 'Chocolate Moose' - E5 6c*. Jack quickly figured out a sequence and was soon 'boshing' his way up the larger holds at the top of the arete and pulled through the horrific top out. I then managed the same feat after 2 or 3 false starts and a jump off the top out... thankfully the 4 mats were put to good use and the manner we ascended the route was deemed a highball Font 6c+ and after contemplation the grade of E4 6b*** was considered correct but for once it appears this arete is probably best approached above a stack of pads!
Franco then showed Jack his two current projects, the blunt rib and the 'E7' arete, which he felt wasn't far away from being completed.
The final actions of the day were a quick, infact flash, of 'Body Torque' (font 7b/7b+) by Jack. A very impressive ascent, quite faultless and quite useful as it was midgey are fook up there in the windless conditions!
Excellent day out, good to have the quality and grade comparison from Jack and hopefully this may spur a few more folk to repeat or go searching for FA's too.
Another Danby day out, with Franco, Dave and Jack from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.
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