Tuesday, 5 July 2011

Danby Crag - New Routes

Spain seems like last year. Since then i've spent the best part of 3 weeks finishing uni work and revising for exams, in which time i went to Troller's Gill and Kilnsey. These were ok days out with routes from F7a to F7b. I then began my summer mapping project, 6 weeks of geological mapping in the Skyreholme Area.

I was quite psyched for this, expecting some people to come from leeds to climb, but unfortunately this never happened and i ended up spending 5 weeks 20minutes from Trollers. Admittedly after a day of geology in the field i rarely felt like going down to 'see if i could get a belay off someone there. I ended up soloing a few lower grade routes there, a quality HVS slab, Brute a strenuous flake E1 and a F6a or two.

Fortunately this came to an end and i returned to the moors to meet up with Franco. I was unsure how i was climbing, feeling a bit peeved that my F7a fitness (pretty good for me) was lost, due to exams and mapping. I had flashed E4 and E5 just before too.
However, Franco's arete finds at Danby were great. Complimenting tricky moves, with good positions and in my style. A quick headpoint of 'The Jungle Drum' a really good, 8m arete with a well protected but potentially hard to read move at half-height near numerous cams. The tops moves padding with feet which laying away from sandstone flutes is a delight.

Shunting 'The Jungle Drum' H4/E4 6a**

To the right is a wall, starting off below a bulge, you ascend to a series of horizontal breaks where 'adequate' rather than good gear is arranged. From here a tenuous, painful move on a fingertip splitting edge allows a good rail to be achieved. This move has as much about foot placement as it does on sheer will to yard on a painful edge, but after a couple of shunts i felt that the 'on-off' move was more on, than off.

 Abseiling down 'The Polish Diplomat' H4/E5 6a/b

 Reaching the crimpy-horror-hold, the crux is pulling off this to the top

The crux, it's a hard pull, very obvious but can be very 'on-off'.

Both routes are around E4/5 6a/b, probably low in this grade, 'The Polish Diplomat' probably weighing in as slightly harder than The Jungle Drum, due to the potential added danger. Sam however found the climbing on The Jungle Drum much more straightforward than The Diplomat, so perhaps i can't grade?

 Sam yarding, unsuccessfully on the crimpy-horror-hold

Franco then found yet more potentially very hard routes, one being very interesting involving a wild slap or a ridiculous full length static stetch (probs need to be 6ft 2 at least!) to a small break at the top.

 Sam enjoying the tremendous, sustained and stiff, Valiant VS 4c** (MHVS 5a)

                                        Face pulling on Valiant

Seems Danby is where its at. Oh, Battersby crag too, maybe...!

An odd, mish-mash of pics and video from our couple of days at Danby new routing.

Compilation of video and photos of Danby Projects from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.

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