Thirlmere, Borrowdale, Dow and Slate!

Monday afternoon, after retrieving Franco's Moped from Malton, we set off to the Lake District with the plan of action being to settle some unfinished buisness and nail some new routes and possibly push the grade out a wee bit.

We took advantage of the light nights, with a hour and a half stop by at Castle Rock of Triermain, to rattle off 'Triermain Eliminate'. A route on both of our wishlists after we had been rained off the Top pitch, in the past.

Franco dispatched the route with ease, i however found the climb rather tiring (driving is my excuse plus it was still VERY hot) and elected to take a rest in the final niche, only a metre of so from the finish. My choice was a good one i think, because i had problems topping out on the slopey grass.

Abseiling back down the line to remove gear showed how overhanging the north wall was, i passed franco on the half way ledge a good 2 metres out and was atleast 3 metres out at the base. No wonder the place is quite pumpy...

We met up with Luke Hunt, and his friends from Uni, Tom and Miles. We chose Dow Crag as the next days location, a crag i was looking forward to as i had never been.

We arrived at the crag in the mid afternoon and decided to 'warm up' on 'Pink Pather' - E2 5c.

Unfortunately, our route finding was awful and i climbed a 'non-line' taking the central section of an E3, to an exposed and poorly protected rightwards traverse. I was bricking it and after my minor epic managed to downclimb to more substantial gear where i lowered off.

Still unaware this was the wrong route Franco climbed the line finishing up the Arete at the top. Declaring it E3+ 5c+, which seemed to be the case when i was up there.

Thoroughly de-psyched, i was happy to lay around on an exposed slab taking photos of Franco and Luke attempting 'The Shining Path' - E5 6b***.
During this time Tom and Miles were enjoying the classic, Eliminate 'A' - VS.

Luke made a valiant O/S attempt but eventually flagged and rested. Franco then gave it a bloody good go, but floundered at the extremely tough and sequency looking crux.

Luke then gave it another go and managed the line with only a cheeky pull on the quickdraw, which was unfortunate.

Wednesday, we chose Borrowdale with Reecastle being the choice. It wasn't quite as i imagined it and i wasn't feeling at my best. Franco therefore climbed first despatching 'White Noise' - E3, rather easily with Luke following. Tom and Miles were climbed the only VS at the crag and then had their eyes on 'The Rack' HVS***.

I attempted an E2 on the righthand side, but it was dirty and i just lost all motivation. I couldn't see a safe 'E2' way of doing the moves so i downclimbed.

I later made myself feel slightly better, climbing 'The Rack Direct' E2 5b*.

Luke and Franco were currently boshing around on 'Penal Servitude' E5 6b***. Luke eventually managing the line with a small rest.

With most of the evening still available, Franco elected to go to Black Crag in Borrowdale as he fancied another barefoot solo of 'Troutdale Pinnacle' Severe, and also a look at 'Prana' E3 5c.

I joined him on Troutdale Pinnacle (with shoes! :-) and then agreed to do the embarrasing first pitch of Prana, an awful wet slab up to one of the most comfortable belay trees ever!

I sat basking in the evening sunlight, watching Franco eventually pull through the crux overlap high on the Headwall above me. I seconded it, which was nice and the moves were all good solid 5b/c. We were both quite happy and wandered down to Grange, where Tom, Miles and Luke were drinking.

Thursday, saw Luke, Tom and Miles depart back to Manchester. Tom and Miles going to some music event or some such...

Franco and I decided to go after a route we needed to tick and i also had a bit of a point to prove. I really want to like Slate!

Cathedral Quarry it was, Darklands was the target and i was going to feel secure on Slate.

When we arrived Franco's second route, Basilica was being muddied and polished by Abseiling hordes.

We decided to try and climb Darklands as two pitches to remove the rope drag. I climbed to the belay and then Franco climbed through, clipping the numerous bolts and decaring the route an absolute softtouch. He abseiled back to me on the belay but unfortunately the ropes were stuck. So in the end i seconded the top pitch. I wasn't too bothered. The route is indeed a softtouch, there are 1 two many bolts and by this point i was qutie psyched by the route to the left, 'An Alabuse'.

It takes a rib to the right of the big, dark hole leading to the entrance. It then steps right and laybacks up a large flake leading to a delicate cruxy finish on the top slab.

I went first and really enjoyed the climbing under the impression it was E2 but it turned out to be E3. Really nice juggy moves, lead above the void. Then a delicate ramp leads to the layback, which is interesting! Then the top is a sequence of high feet and crimpy jug pulls. Really really nice route, one of my favourites!
Franco then climbed the line and abbed for the gear. Then climbed 'Rim Fisher' another E3, which was apparently much harder.

We left back to the Moors, after a brief chat with a nice bloke about the bolting situation in the Quarry. Darklands in particular appears to have 1 too many bolts and certainly didn't seem to fit the E3 grade as a result? Never mind its a cracking line!

Moors Classics and a return to form?

After the end of may Peak trip, June was all about Exams and getting strong for climbing. So much so that i returned to Ravenswick quarry for a couple of hours of non stop bouldering just to burn my forearms into submission then attempt some long steady 5b traverses to build up the stamina, i think it worked.

During my revising i've been finding various places around the house to do pull ups and chin ups and what have you. I've never really focussed on training in the past, but i feel a combination of the garage wall, fingerboard and pull/press ups should do some good.

The second weekend of June began with plans of Almscliffe or Filey. But dodgey weather forecasts made a last minute decision of Ingleby Incline the preffered option. We slogged up to the crag in about 30 minutes and decided to jump on the *** line of the crag, Gym Junkies. At E3 6b, it struck me as being the kind of route i belayed Franco on and decided i wasn't going to do. However, Franco's ascent made it look do able and the starting moves are well protected.

My attempt proved fruitful, and although it could have been far better protected with some fiddly wires it still felt an easy E3, certainly not 6b. It's worth jumping on if you reckon you climb E3!

Our first objective ticked we walked to Time Captain E4. The large roof of the route really appeals but the top slab is dirty. Neither of us wanted to ab and clean the line but i felt it would be too much to ask, for me at least anyway. We tried the E4 Love and Confusion, but with low friction the sloping pitch hold was hard work. Franco gained the pocket but decided the slopey topout was worth leaving for a Colder day.

I then climbed Top Gun, a classic HVS which i should have done a long time ago but never got around to. It's a great line and a good climb, worth going to and doing. We finished with a boulder around on No Prisoners, a 6b sloping crack. Some nice moves but i felt my dynamic methods were not in the spirit of the line.

The next day, i decided that i was going to demand that we visited High Crag in Tripsdale and got up Warrior, a *** moors E2 that hardly anyone has climbed.

We arrived at the crag at about 3 in the afternoon, after a long walk in, a stop off at some boulders and a quick look at Tarn Hole. We had chose to walk in from the moor top, to avoid the midgeys and try and get a cooling breeze. It was scorching.

As soon as we geared up for this epic looking crackline, the midgeys started. We fought on, whereas last time we ran like pansys, and our 'commitment' paid off.

I elected to go first. I usually fail on lines when i go first but i decided it would be good to do. We placed a loweroff at the top as the top was whringing wet and the moss was of poor friction... :-)

I started to climb up and rammed a cam in (which i nearly lost), then a beaut of a Hex, something i haven't used for at least a year!

I then ran out of ideas of how to keep jamming up this confining, overhanging, damp, green, crackline. I rested on the Hex to have a look around and realised i had to span left onto the wall.

Climbing this epic route, this time using the left wall and realised it was straighforward, relitavely easy considering what it looks like and that the moves were actually worth stars, though perhaps ** rather than ***.

I attempted to top out but the wet moss was impossible. I even considered a dyno to a tree root, but decided this was probably not wise. I lowered off, happy with the midgys massing and my hands and clothes filthy.

Franco climbed the line cleanly, using the hold out left that he had spotted and finished as i did. It was the only way unfortunately.

We ran away from High Crag before the man-eating midgeys stipped us of our flesh.

The E4, 'A Reach Too Far' at Tarn Hole, looked like a highball couple of stars Peak E4. It was however a Moors E4 with ***. We had to try it.

Unfortunately, after our excertions on Warrior and the walk in and the day before at Ingleby, I at least felt knackered. We gave it a bash but neither fully committed, so much so we both retain our onsights. However, i feel the clue is in the name, so i might need to stretch abit if im going to go anywhere near it again!

We walked down, in the beating sun at about 8 in the evening. Absolutely knackered but with a Weekend of Classic ticks, long, heavily overgrown walk ins and sandbag testing - i was ready to relax and recouperate and begin my revision for Chemistry.

Getting back into climbing

It's been a long time. Since November i've had 8 crag days and i realised my weakness this weekend. Myself and Franco decided to meet up with Luke in the Peak and Twig decided to come along as well. It was my first time meeting Twig but Franco assured me he was a funny guy so the weekend promised to be full of laughs.

We journied down after work on friday night and parked up at Burbage Car park, somewhere we had bivvyed before. It was cold, considering the balmy days we were having and the sun rose early, we got up and drove to millstone for around 7 in the morning.

Franco climbed The Snivling Shits - E5 6a around 8 oclock i think, and myself and Twig tried the first few moves but neither of us were willing to commit seeing as the crux is the top i think.

Luke turned up and told me to do Embankment 3 - a pleasant looking E1 on finger locks and such i enjoyed it and was happy i could still onsight E1.

We hurried around to Lawrencefield, Luke was after Pool Wall and i fancied Great Peter. Unfortunately after taking photos of Luke on Pool Wall, people jumped on Great Peter - what a shame. Burbage South it was then.

Some project at Lawrencefield... Looks class like ;-)
Had a mess around at Burbage South, nearly climbing Boggart Left Hand - unfortunately the sun was blinding and i couldnt quite reach the break. Next time!

We spent the night at Ladybower Reservoir, i think. It was nice but we slept in the car as it was quite cold.

Next day we bombed up to Bamford and Franco climbed Jetrunner. I fancied it but was unable to commit to the pocket move. I did however enjoy Gargoyle Flake and the Crease and the VS to it's left. It was a nice soloing day.

We completed our road trip with a bash at Froggat. I fancied Strapiobante and also for some reason Strapiombo appealed as well.

The weather was scorching and i struggled to keep my hands chalked so much so when it came to latching the sloper at the end i actually thought it impossible in the weather conditions! unfortunately it wasn't until i'd had a rest that i realised there were good holds to it's left! Bugger.

Strapiombo was much better. Horizontal jamming along the roof crack led to an easier crack. I placed a cam, and jammed above it. It felt sweaty this jam and it slipped down this crack straight onto my cam. It fucking hurt. I think i knackered my nerves because my thumb is still numb as i write this. Either way that was the onsight gone for Strapiombo a route i had done the hard work for but on a cooler day i'd have nailed both. Never mind. It's given me the incentive to start training and getting strong. This summer before uni, with the weather apparently going to be amazing, means that i want to be as strong as i can be i've got a lot of plans this year!

Long Weekend - Bridestones

Fantastic, a 4 day weekend from College and only a small amount of homework - what could be better for a climber?

Unfortunately the weather had other ideas, with Thursday being a complete washout. I checked the weather again and again and the general consensus was that Friday would be cold with showers later on.

Friday morning however showed a different story, it was very cold about -3 and the day was supposed to stay that way all day, so i decided bouldering was in order. Without Franco, i decided against Slipstones as i would require his ability to 'figure out' boulder problems, so i opted to the North Yorkshire Moors, humble answer to Brimham - Bridestones.

It was icy on the drive to the 'stones and after a loongish walk in (to get around paying £7 toll!) we arrived convieniently at 'problem 1' on 'Pinnacle 1'.

My aim for today was to solo every line that looked good and to continue until i could climb no more.

I climbed a host of problems on Pinnacle 1 and 2, with the roof problems being especially worthwhile. I then walked over to the 'Pepperpot'. This lump of rock, standing alone on a rather thin stance has a couple of named problems on it and they are Mr, Master and Mrs Pepperpot.

I managed Master Pepperpot onsight, which i was rather pleased about. However, i thought it was probably slightly over graded, though it did depend on a loong reach.

I then climbed Mrs Pepperpot. This was harder, not technically, but because the holds above the overhang were 'soapy' (due to moist rock and sandy layer mixing) I fell off. Disgrunted i jumped on it again. Climbing to the roof, gaining the juggy pockets and swinging out - i hooked a foot over the roof and pulled. I didn't enjoy the scrabble with the soapy rock!

The groove on this buttress is also worth a mention, though i thought it was quite high considering, getting progressively steeper but on better holds.

After this i ventured to the High Bridestones (lewis, who had accompanied me was still on the pinnacles i think) and i looked at the guide. Instantly 'Big Dog's Cock' stuck out as a must do route! not just for the name, but also because it talked of "pulling over the roof - scary!". One to do without the mat i thought.

Sure enough i did, and thought it was worth HVS 5c as the landing looked superb. The climb itself was pretty good as well, climbing a sandy scoop to a capping roof. I gained the prominent roof from the right and hooked my heel into one of the water eroded jugs on the top. Not a time to slip if i cared about my ankles!

After some traverses and gentle 5a warm downs, i soloed 'Big Dog's Cock' again so Lewis could grab some photos.

An Poor End to an OK Month

We had already decided the Peak was the plan for the half term holidays. Looking at climbing all the classic VS's (probably solo) and HVS's/E1,2,3's that Franco had nailed on his previous Peak trips and i was after E4's in Jetrunner and The Strangler. Franco also had his sights on Black Hawk Bastion at Stanage and Life Assurance at Burbage.

I drove down on the Tuesday morning, it was cold and quite breezy but the conditions were good for Grit. We set to work, immediatedly Franco soloing Hargreaves Original at Stanage. I decided that Central Trinity was a better option but soon i found myself on Hargreaves as well. The slopey reputation seemed a tad exaggerated but it is a tremendous climb.

Next we did Inverted V which looks like such an immense line and it doesn't disappoint i opted for the righthand finish, but franco did the left hand as he had done the right hand finish before.

After this we did some short solos on 'Rusty Wall' and then i roped up for Flying Buttress Direct. A route i think everyone wants to do, however i was a tad cautious and climbed with some trepidation. The snow was falling at this point, which was quite cool and it was cold so my hands were numb. I thought to myself about all the unusual ascents we have had - climbing Seams the Same at 6am in the Slate Mines, ascending 'The Hot Line' at Rylstone in two pitches because we were arguing over who's lead it was!

This was different though, the cold and snow made this seem somewhat epic and Stanage almost had an 'adventurous' feel to it. I placed my largest nut at the back of the roof and then tested the holds. I could feel what to do, but i didn't trust my hands and i hadn't seen anyone climb the route so i wasn't too sure about how to overcome the roof... it certainly doesnt look HVS.

I reached and swung out. Hooked a heel on the the break and reached again. I couldn't feel anything. The snow was dampening the holds and it was bloody cold.

I rolled onto the next break and laid there for a bit, giggling at my lack of 'finesse' but i guess the route doesnt really take well to style.

I managed to stand up and ran it out to the top. Spot on route really fun move over the roof but i couldn't say it was HVS with a straight face!

The next day was too cold to climb, we bouldered at Plantation but we weren't particularly bothered about anything and the next day we called an end to it, after the start motor in the car stuck. I called the RAC and they fixed us and i drove home, under orders not to stop the engine!

An OK October - Lakes

October was always looking like a good month, initally because quite often it retains some dry weather allowing for climbing and also it has the College half term, which means we could go to the Peak District to get some classic Peak ticks. However, October didn't really work out as planned.

On the second weekend, Ian Moore, Franco and myself travelled to the lakes to climb some lakeland routes and franco and I wanted Prana... It was wet and quite chilly with a brisk wind. The first day we decided Shepherds would be as good as anywhere and Franco could remember a route called M.G.C that he wanted to do there and i quite fancied 'The Black Icicle' though i don't know why.

We started off with the Icicle and Franco soloed Little Chamonix. The first pitch i reckoned would be the crux and i wasn't sure what Ian was like on 5b territory, having had limited climbing with him. The crux move is a delight and is well protected with a big nut. After that came the upper pitch which is 5a.

However, the upper pitch is a 'proper' E1 5a. It was pretty run out and involved a reach for a good but very thin feeling hold. It probably wouldn't go, but it certainly feels like it could! Ian climbed this upper part well and i followed him up. It was a good effort and a good route im glad we did.

Franco was now intent on climbing M.G.C and he did so quite easily.

I then climbed after him, but i found the going was quite strenuous after Black Icicle and i tired on the central part. The reachiness of the climb had me stumped so i fell off.

I then retried the line two or three more times, quite content to fall onto the gear as it was good practice, as i have taken very limited lead falls in my time.

The next day started quite chilly and it had rained. We opted for a crag i had not heard of called Buckbarrow Crag, near Honister Pass. It is a crag of natural slate which i was interested about and it had some classic HVS's that Ian was interested in, it also had an E2 me and franco thought about.

Me and Ian climbed a route called Alexas, which i think i'd heard of before and i seem to remember hearing it was quite stubborn for the grade. Anyway, we read the guide and i set off and realised that my first pitch was just a choss scramble to a crappy ledge where i disappointedly set up a belay. Ian came up and then climbed over the overlap and up the wet corner. It was disappoint really as it would have been two stars in the dry, but the wet slate was ultra slippy in the wet and it made lots of hte smeary routes quite bold. Ian however didn't fancy the next section climbing leftwards under the roof on the waterworn slate.

I followed up and managed to have a rest and take his gear on a very very cramped stance. I then attacked the slate slab leftwards, the moist holds and lack of friction made me really think i was bound to come off.
Luckily i didn't i and i ran it out to the top of the cliff from there placing a sling over a spike now and again. Ian followed up and we walked down to attempt the E2.
It was beginning to drizzle and franco climbed the starting groove well, bringing me and Ian up to a decent stance. I then climbed the next section which was a tad loose and damp and it felt unpredictable however i made it up to a lovely ledge where i sat looking at the steep continuation crack.

Franco and Ian climbed up and we finished up the upper crack, which was delightful and felt quite exposed with the Honister valley behind.

A decent weekend considering what could have been but we were disappointed not to have 'ticked' any classics we really went there for.

That makes two lakes trips with a lack of progress, if im honest.

Henshaws 2 Antarctica

Please take a look at my blog and email me with any questions at tim.ralph@ntlworld.com
The blog site is www.henshaws2antarctica.blogspot.com

"Hi
I am leaving the UK for Antarctica on 16th November to climb Mount Vinson, one of the Seven Summits, (this will be my sixth). I am meeting 100% of the cost of the expedition myself, so all monies raised will go to Henshaws Yorkshire, Society for Blind People. I hope to be back in the UK by 18th December. The blog will be updated whilst I am both hiking/sled hauling and climbing and we hope to arrange a live satellite phone call from the summit. If you can post a link to my blog I’d be most appreciative.

The Just Giving site is www.justgiving.com/henshaws2antarctica For more information please don’t hesitate to contact me."

Kind Regards
Tim Ralph

Whitestone Cliffe and Ingleby Incline

Two amazing crags that myself and Franco have paid very little attention too really. Whitestone is the crowning jewel of Moors climbing, it encorporates everything that is to be expected from a quality venue; Looseness, Choss, sandbagging and most importantly, Death.

It stands facing the vale of York and anyone drivingup the A19 will be able to see it and it has a awesome attraction that can either lure climbers in or send them running never to return, im glad im not the latter.

It has an almost cult-following attracting all kinds of climbers from alpinsts and aspiring alpinsts such as Chris Woodal and Ian Jackson, to standard climbers like myself. It's towers of teetering choss, a mixture between Calcareous Sandstones, Dolomitic Limestone and the odd 'Dogger' make for an awe inspiring crag, the top section is apparntly Calcareous GRIT!.

The majority of visits are for the classic moors line, of 'The Nightwatch' which if you haven't done, you should. It's absolutely amazing and is solid taking as much gear as you would like although VS 4b may feel slightly sandbagged, if you are not familiar to the rock and it has an almost 'mountain crag' feel to it, which can be quite offputting considering the tame environment you were in 10 minutes before arriving!

I found myself being talked into Whitestone, which i was happy about but upon arriving found myself gearing up for 'Jurassic Scarp' an E3 5b on loose rock, with the odd sling runner for pro. I backed off the first pitch and franco gave it a determined attempt. He also decided against it, about halfway up.

Then it was my turn to climb 'The Nightwatch'. I have climbed on the moors, nearly a year and a half properly and i still hadn't climbed this line which is realistically 4 grades below my standard onsight level. However, it still felt up there and if i had climbed it onsight as an FA i would have been tempted to slap E1 on it! However, there are hunderds of holds in hindsight and all the gear you could want, especially thread runners...which lets face it are bomber! I think if you take your time and have ALOT of gear and quickdraws then it is an amazing route at the grade. Apparently, if Ken Wilson had known of its existance, he would have put it in classic rock.

After my ascent i walked off with the camera and took photos of Franco climbing the line Solo. He had climbed it previously and knew that there was always holds which is why, i said in hindsight it's probably VS+ rather than HVS or E1!!!.

Fantastic crag, with a superb classic line amongst others which are well worth doing. If you have ever considered going, but then carried on down the A19 to the Yorkshire Grit or the Peak, next time, spend the day here.

The next day, we travelled to a more local crag. Ingleby Incline is blessed with a 40minute walk in, which leads to a wonderfully located crag, which exhibits the legendary moors sandbag. Many of the grades, if below E1ish, are about 2 grades lower than they should be, many of hte VS's are possbly worth HVS and Extremes are about 1 less or so we've found so far!

I had been before with franco soloing many of the slightly sandbagged extremes, which are generally gearless or micro routes / unrope worthy.

However, this time i returned for another reason. This was to climbed YET another moors classic i was yet to attempt. Cozy Corner, tackles the superb wide crack just to the right of one of the largest roofs on the Moors. It goes at VD, which it probably would be if you have size 4 and 5 cams, however if illequiped with micro nuts and cams then you would probably find it a bit intimidating!

I soloed the line in true moors fashion, offwidth-ing and footjamming the central section. And topped out a happy chappy! It's a great line! :-)

After this i checked the other buttresses i was yet to see and also looked at Time Captain, a route on my wishlist. It looked doable, although i may resort to practice if its E4, but i'd rather not!Running around like a headless chicken, Franco, directed me in the direction of an idea of a new route he had. We swanned up the inital wall to the overhang and placed some gear. He then pulled around the roof and then had a minor epic topping out via a very thin crack which when i followed him up was jammed full of very poor Rp's. 'They'd be Reet' was his statement as i topped on on the slopey slab above It went at about E3/5 5c/6a.

I then set about on the same route, but with time running out and my inability to climb technically, i reached right before falling off!!! This lead into the Crack of a HardSevere, but the moves leading over the overlap and the balancy reach rightwards, meant it was still quite difficult, perhaps 5b. The gear was quite poor being shallow friends, so E2 5b seemed like a decent grade for the line however, it would probably be HVS if we stuck to moors principles.

I called it a cop out finish but renamed it on the way down as i was running to get back in time for my pickup for 5 a side football. It was a good route, as it incorperated the inital roof difficulty and the gear is dodgey (shallow cams) so we decided 'Five-a-Side Finish' was worthy of a low E2 5b.

Cringle Moor

It's a shame this crag is north facing, as it has some stunning looking lines. I had wanted to visit for sometime to look at the 'largest roof in Cleveland' which is climbed by an E4. However, when finally seeing this line i was disapointed. In all seriousness, its a great looking line! but it wasn't quite as i imagined. I expected overhanging jamming however its more like a 4metre roof over a corner. Fair do's, its a line i certainly want to do, but whether or not the start crack will ever dry with these crap summers we have, is another issue.

Franco and I decided to solo a couple of routes to warm ourselves up, as the freezing fog was doing its best to wet everything and make us cold. We soloed 'The Voice' a delicate E1 that stops half way up the crag and then climbed 'Tell Chris Cragg's Nowt!' a HVS F.A that we put up on the upper tier. The name originates from the old UKC days, when we made our dislike for Rockfax guides apparent - however, it was all in good humour.

After Franco then, annoyed about not being able to climb 'Wedge Route' set about on a First Free Ascent of 'Terry's Dilema'. The Dilema, was commiting to the overhanging crack off a very poor slopey, filthy ledge. However, the climbing is protectable and you fall into space. As i found out!

Rylstone

This was my first trip to the grit crags of Yorkshire, although i've been to Brown Beck crag and Slipstones, these are most definitely North East crags and don't count as Yorkshire Grit. (After recent events on UKC, i will clarify this. I believe Slipstones is a Moors crag, as it was pioneered by lads from Teesside and it doesn't have the feel of Yorkshire Grit at all. The Definitive guide is also the north East England guide, not the Yorkshire Grit guide. That is my arguement, you don't have to listen!)

I drove down to Rylstone, really really hoping to get a good day on the grit and hoping that my recent lack of climbing wasn't going to be too noticable.

Franco had been once before, with the Ian's and wanted a good day at the crag as his experiences last time were mainly wet and cold.

Looking up from the road i could see the monuments and i got a feeling it would be a good day for us, expecially with it facing north west the sun wasn't going to be too unbareable or reduce the friction.

We arrived at Monument buttress and i looked at 'Monument Crack' (E1) which i decided was probably a very good climb well worth doing. But it also looked like the kind of E1 which can give you are very hard time if you a tad out of practice. I left it alone.

Franco decided to 'warm up' on 'Pocket Battleship' a micro E3 to the right. It looked hideous, pulling on slopers around a bulge and i decided it wasn't for me. Franco persuaded me to climb 'Monument Crack' and i did really like the look of it.

I climbed to the roof and decided i was far too lazy to try and place some gear so i reached the jugs and pulled around the roof. I then 'scraped' my way up the next section to the rest and placed some gear.

No handed rest in the niche was very nice and franco walked around taking some photos. I chalked up and got ready for what i thought was going to be the crux. Electing to jam rather than pull on the side of the crack, i climbed the last section with ease getting lovely 'sinking' jams.

We then walked over to 'Dental Slab'. What a climb this is, seriously if you haven't done it, do it and if you have do it again. Currently loving jamming, i jammed all the horizontal breaks and rocked over onto them to reach the next. I don't know whether this is the way to climb it, but it certainly was enjoyable. The mantle to reach the flutings was good fun solo as well. A classic that definitely failed to disappoint!

We then climbed another couple of crag classics. 'Crazy Diamond' was a route i really wanted to do, due to the fact i like Pink Floyd and Shine on you, Crazy Diamond is such an amazing song and also the line looked challenging. The initially techincalities were quite straightforward and then the upper slab was good fun, standing on pebbles. It did feel abit E3- 5b while on it.

We then climbed the 'easiest E1 on Yorkshire Grit' which is 'The Hot Line'. I decided to 'Jazz' it up abit so i alternate lead it with Franco, who actually quite liked the look of the route, so i was happy to sit on the big ledge and look at the view while he climbed. :-)

We then climbed Veteren, which was quite bold but at a 'just to say' friendly angle. Very escapable though.

Then over to Poetry in Motion, which was a bit disappointing really. We walked down in the dark and then drove to Harrogate to get a pizza! 2 for 1 in some overpriced shop, which worked out to be.... like buying two pizza's...

I drove home and franco snored, i was impressed with my navigational skills on unfamiliar roads and at night, with headlights (when dipped) which are absolutely shite!

Gehenna

This is a climb that is coverted as one of the best in the region and the fact it was a jamming line made it appealing. This would be a stuggle. UKC logbooks showed that there had been some attempts recently but non of them were clean leads. It certainly sounded like a classic moors sandbag.

We arrived for our first trip to Beacon Scar. I liked the look of the place, certainly need to go back and do Mongol, Tremor and no doubt franco will want Fat Bastards Last Fling, a bold looking E5.

Looking up at Gehenna, i liked the look of it. It was a proper jamming line, a nicely sized crack with very little either side for the feet. It certainly didn't have the 'feel' of getting on a HVS.

The climb starts with a Niche, which you can arrange protection in before exiting it up and leftways, via some rather awkward moves on shallow jams on slightly damp, green soft sandstone.

The jams kept going for longer than i was expecting and i reached the horizontal break after about 7 or 8 jams (i looked like 2 or 3 jams would have got me far enough from the ground!) I placed some gear here as the run out from the niche was too far for comfort and i was tiring.

Luckily, you can rest on a good jam here and after placing a nut and cam i got my final jam, gastoned the crack and reached into the lovely pockets at the top. A truly great climb. Harder than it looks and it looks hard! but funnily enough HVS doesn't seem too bad for it, perhaps E1.

Another moors classic ticked and i was happy that the climb was a struggle. We didnt have enough time for anything else and i was tired anyway, pleased that i felt i could jam. This inspired me to visit yorkshire grit the next day.

End of the Summer

The last week before College, we managed to get across to the lakes for some decent climbing. The weather was reported to be hit and miss so we took our chances. I however felt decidedly ill but it wasn't too bad.
On route we stopped off at Healheugh and also Lamb Hill Quarry. The former provided some good gritstone cragging in a remote setting which was quite a nice break from driving. Lamb hill however was a little bit disappointing though we might drop in again next time we go to the lakes. Saturday we got up and drove to Gimmer where i climbed Springbank (E2-) which i thoroughly enjoyed as i climbed it feeling very sick and very dizzy which made the fact i climbed the slabby start all the more pleasing.
Franco and Luke tried 'Eastern Hammer' but neither of them could get past half height on this pumpy problem.
We retreated to Catherdral Quarry. Franco and I were interested to see how it compared to Welsh slate... It's alot more frictiony!
It began to rain and i felt very ill, but luke was 'psyched' for Darklands (E3 5c) which he despatched very efficienctly, in the rain as well. It was quite impressive.
Next day we went to Black crag (Wrynose) which was nice, albeit small. We did the usual stuff there, including 'Glass Slipper' (E2-) and Needle Arete (E3-) and some solos. This was a good day for me as i again felt like shit, but still got some climbing in. I knew once i felt better, the weather could deteriorate. It did, but not after heading to Hodge Close Quarry and then Parrock, where we just messed around on some bolted, slate slabs.
The next two days were shite, as it rained quite a lot so Luke left with Rob and Lotte and the next day Franco and I returned to the North East...

Brown Beck Crag

The day news broke about Ian's death, Neil and Myself were planning on journeying to Goldsborough, but we called this off. Unfortunately the weather had been awful for the week before and it continued to remain shite.
However, finally there was a break in the weather and i decided that it was too late to arrange to climb with anyone else so i raced to Brownbeck Crag to take advantage of the dry weather. I did just this, but i forgot my guidebook.
Luckily, i study my local guidebook a little too much and i could remember the lines and grades for a lot of the routes at Slipstones and Brown Beck crag.
The climbing lived up to the expectations i had for the place, with 'Pella' VS 4C*** and 'Wichita Linesman' HVS 5b** being extremely good routes which would be amazing if a little larger!
There were some other good aretes and 'E' numbers at the crag, but the VS and HVS would make a trip there worthwhile!
I also dropped in on a bit of a Daemon at Slipstones. 'Seven Up' and it's direct start E2 and E3 respectively had evaded my grasp for some time and i knew i could climb them! I did just this and it made my day to be honest!
I intend to climb at Goldsborough this summer and also maybe Healheaugh. I also wouldn't mind climbing some proper limestone, but a local very good looking crag appears to be closed, so im rather disapointed about that.

Summer 2008 - From bad to worse

On the way up the Ben. Ian was soo excited, but he wanted a picture with some Deer first!
Not particularly flattering, but the memories from Smiths Route will last forever!
Ian Soloing 'Inverted V' at Stanage. This seemed very impressive at the time, i was envious!
Again, not exactly flattering, but a hell of a trip and a very good laugh!
Just before Ian fell a fair distance after 'giving up' on the wet upper cracks. Again i was amazed with his climbing

What a fcking, shite summer this has been. Not only has the weather been awful, but my friends have been at the Alps climbing amazing routes while i was left in the UK unable to go aswell! However, as you may have heard a friend of mine, Ian Jackson tragically died in the Alps while climbing. This truly has been a summer of unrivalled sadness. Ian was a good lad, a heck of a climber and he made an impression to everyone he met. The thread on UKC after his death, proves this. He will be missed by everyone that knew him and his loss will be felt, probably forever.

My Summer - 2008

The soloing trip to the Lakes kept me contented for the first few weeks, but i became restless. Desperate for good weather and a new crag i started to look at even more esoteric venues that were easily reachable. Luckily one evening Franco's dad, Neil decided that he was able to go climbing, this was much appreiciated and we went to the nearby safe-bet of Camp Hill. There Neil ascended the good Severe and VS that he wanted and made a determined attempt to second me on the very nice HVS called 'Cling Wrap', something he is going to lead in the future and something i think he will have no problem in completing.

I also, decided that it was time to try 'Ace of Winds', this amazing looking climb has put me off several times, for one because it doesn't LOOK HVS and two, because i had to downclimb from the blank wall at half height!

This time however, i managed to reach the loose blocks. I arranged some decent protection then made a lo-o-ong reach to the top. There was nothing but sloping rock; on Grit this would have been enough, but Camp Hill isn't quite Grit. It's alot courser than the rock at Scugdale or Wainstones, but it didn't have the required friction. I eventually managed to get a high foot lockoff in a small crack under the roof and a blind reach around the roof to, luckily a good lip on the top. This was enough. I topped out on a great route, one that has repelled me two or three times, but i was right, it doesn't look HVS and it isn't!

The next day, i dragged budding climber, Matthew 'Mini' Cooper from Sleights along for a 'introduction' to rock climbing. We spent the day looking at rope technique, climbing technique and placing gear. He is a quick learner and i soon had him seconding me up routes and soloing some easy safe lines. He then lead, albeit dogged 'Longbow' but he was happy enough and i was ecstatic with what he had achieved. I then, asked if he would do me a favour and take a photo or two of me on a line i was yet to try. 'Pinnacle Face' HVS 5c, just looks stupid. The start is definitely 5c or harder and then the upper wall is difficult to protect and not ALOT easier. The guide also says 'use the right arete, if you must!' Personally, if you can't use the right arete, then it is totally eliminate as it is making you do very unnatural moves! Anyhow, the exposure was nice, but it wasn't the line i was hoping for!

Rejuvinated, with the recent improvement in weather i requested that Lewis would come to Eston Nab. Hardly Esoteric in the sense of the word, with it's views across Teesside and it's well used footpath above, popular with the local inhabitance. Parking at the Cross Keys on the A171, (to avoid parking in Eston!) we walked across and i got my first glipse of Eston Nab. "Oh well, it doesn't look too bad" i said, in fact i actually found the backdrop of Teesside an interesting change from Rolling moorland. The dockyards were certainly a better setting than a large group of houses.

The climbing was a tad dissapointing, i was hoping for higher buttresses. Luckily, the trip wasn't a waste, as i soloed alot of lines and then lead a VERY good HVS called, 'The Other'. This line takes a corner crack to a small ledge, then gear can be arranged up some criss-crossing cracks before undercutting a roof and traversing rightwards to allow a pull over to the top. Immense!

Lewis, didn't fancy it. I don't know why he did the hard bit reaching the roof the top section was the reward, but i lowered him anyway.

It was from about 1pm that things got bad. We walked to the monument and i climbed the 'back wall' at E1. Then the air became cooler and then rain drops started, we quickly set off for the car, but we were caught in a heavy rain storm. From this day onward, the summer has been wet, miserable and quite frankly woeful.

A lonely Summer - Soloing

Unable to commit to a trip to the Alps this summer, due to my 'not quite right' knee, i have been left in the UK, while all the other climbers in the area, including Franco have gone to the continent. Lewis has remained, but i feel he will not have the commitment to journey here, there and everywhere and pay for it! Matthew (mini) Cooper, is a longshot as he is a busy person with commitments over climbing, which is fair enough but i hope to take him climbing in the next few weeks. So as a last resort, hopefully Shaun will be around to go climbing with but as yet i have not received an Email.
The weekend just gone, saw me and mum travel to the lakes to see family. This was quite a nice treat and it allowed me to solo some lines that i probably otherwise would have struggled to have gotten around to. The first evening, i travelled to 'Durple Gill' that small slate quarry near Patterdale and soloed the lines me and Franco established there and also a new direct variant, called 'Stalion Twister', due to the Deep Purple/Stormbringer theme. However, i appear to have lost my Belay plate here as well, though i am unsure as to how?!
The next day was a rest day as i felt a tad undertheweather and it was VERY hot, but the following day Flynn (dog) and I raced up Grisedale and i set about soloing the classic routes there, such as 'Sobrenada' Vs 4c**. This is a terrific route, though i climbed this and it's direct finish with a hanging rope, just in case!
I then worked 'Pericles' HVS 5a* before soloing it, this felt about E1 5a soloing, but a very nice route all the same. Similarly, the route at the right of the crag called, 'Morning Slab' which follows a nice scoop up a buttress, given HVS 4c** i decided it was probably just as well onsight soloing it, but i saw two or three gear placements, including one where i thought the crux was! Even so, the ascent i think merited 5a and probably E1 5a** at that!
I'll be happy if the holidays carry on with ascents such as these, i don't mind reducing my grade, if it allows me to climb such nice routes.
Next trip, the East Pennines, to do some Gritstone soloing at spots such as Goldsborough! (I hope)

Whitestone Traverse - E2/3 5c A1***

Firstly what an amazing place, unlike anywhere i've ever been or seen before. The limestone pushes up for about 40metres and is uniquely architectured with gigantic cracks, overhanging caves and 'doggers', which are large Xenoliths which are quite sort-after, as they provide the only really bomber holds!

The venue, as stated in the guidebook is not for beginners, children or pets. On arrival, you can understand why. The cliffe is loose, forboding and is defended by a dense barrier of undergrowth, mainly (man-eating) nettles and lacerating thorns, as well as seriously dangerous pit falls and chasms!. This was my first trip to Whitestone and it was pretty much exactly how i imagined it, perhaps slightly more solid!

We abseiled down and walked through the undergrowth to the start of the traverse, (a traverse called, 'Chameleon' no doubt due to it's constantly changing behaviour!) steady climbing at first for the main part, except from the '4c' 3rd pitch, which was overhanging, pumpy and sparsly protected...E1 4c? The next corner was a nice pitch, probably the easiest that we did, but this still had an unprotected 10 metre runout with a grassy mantle on to a ledge.

I elected to belay here, which was a mistake. It was a good idea as it much reduced rope drag and meant franco was right next to the belay on the awkward mantle, but it was a bad choice (unbeknown to me) because it meant i'd get the next '4c' pitch.
From the tree about 40 metres futher along the cliffe, i set off on this pitch, '25metres of 4c' which climbed along to an arete then pulled around it to a ledge. I set off, immediately a hold snapped, but i held on and put a sling runner on one of the trees branches. I then made the rather strenuous moves to the arete. I pulled to gain the arete. Next thing my heart was racing, tiny bits of limestone shrapnel were bombaring me and i realised that my hold had snapped, again i had managed to hold on, but i flashed a look at Franco, and my tree runner and decided whether it would be better to jump off in to the chasm below (which you couldn't see the bottom of) or to try and climb the route and increase the runout. I elected for the latter and made a last ditch, whale on to the tiny ledge around the arete. The whale itself must have taken a minute or two, as i couldn't make any unbalanced moves due to the size of the shelf, i was fully aware that a slip backwards would have been disasterous.

Luckily, the following pitches were much safer and more enjoyable. The 'large slab' area of Whitestone looks impressive and Franco decided he wanted to climb this route as one push. He did placing two runners! over the 40m slab. I followed him up along the slab in the glorious sun to what has to be the best belay i have been on. The two peg's on 'The Leash' provided a belay well above the trees, about 10 metres below the top of Whitestone, with views into the Vale of York i was happy to stand with my calf's burning on the slab.

The next sections were rather poor. Franco managed to drop his belay plate, but rather than give up, he downclimbed 30m to the base, found it then managed to reascend the cliffe on what looked to be 5a/5b territory? We then climbed around to the large, dead tree on 'Gamin' and abseiled to 'the ledge from which the 5a pitch could be taken'. This wasn't any ordinary 5a pitch though, the loose rock and crap gear meant Franco had the unenviable task of attempting to climb this pitch safely, something he did very well but the poor gear and lack of promised peg belays meant franco abbed off and i downclimbed a very useful but bendy tree from the ledge.

Lewis, who had been taking photos and acting as back up did a superb job and after reclaiming lost gear such as the nut i dropped on the 6th pitch and the gear left in the 5a pitch we journeyed back to the car to drive to Peak Scar and bivvy as this was the next days climbing venue!

We had learned alot, and felt we'd given the traverse a good go, the 9 hours spent on the route taught us much about our climbing and partnership. It's given E2 5c A1 ***, but we didn't get to the Aid pitch, which we intended to try and free climb, but even so i felt like i'd been climbing E2/3 all day, we thought that E3 5b would have been a much more realistic grade for what we did!! A superb route, 283m of sustained climbing on loose, friable rock and with dodgey protection or at least questionable, such as the gas pipe runner on the Slab pitch!

One to return to, even if next time Franco and luke try it and i'll take pictures!

Classic's

Now im driving, getting from A to B is alot easier and Franco and i have been to quite a few crags where perfect conditions a must and recently, the conditions have been perfect!

We returned to Raven's Scar, this time WITH a rope! so we were all geared up to tackle the classic E2 ticks of Satchmo and Fever Pitch. I had wanted to do Stardust and Screwed as well, but this didn't happen.

Satchmo fell after abit of hard work, the initial crack is quite thin and hardwork, but then a path leads to a good rest below the leftward slanting layback crack into a small groove. I stepped up and put a good nut in an old peg scar and then proceeded to layback uptowards the groove. I had a few anxious moments, as the upper crack was a tad greasy but it all went to plan and i topped out without incident - a fine route and an obvious strong line. Get on it!

We then walked over to Fever Pitch, apparently bold Franco led it first and got a good rack of friends in, this allowed the climbing to be enjoyed as the pitch was well protected. A great climb with longish reaches between good holds and a short but positive pocket pulling section in the middle. The top out sequence was awkward but this was a good finish to a superb climb.

Me on Fever Pitch - E2

After our sucesses here, we had most of the evening left so we decided to drive to High Crag and Tarn Hole for a look. Unfortunately the walk in was MUCH longer than expected and High Crag was midgy heaven, we were defeated so we went home as it was now getting late. Certainly a pair of crags to come back to though, especially for 'Warrior -E2' which is the large groove behind Franco in the picture.

Tuesday night was the Brimham meet with the CMC, however getting to Brimham after college just seemed abit silly really, plus i had to take my mum to Northallerton train station. So we elected to meet up at Scugdale. Luke Hunt, Lewis, Franco and I set about soloing the lovely buttresses of Scugdale 'popular' (Scot's). We got Lewis up some lines and then Luke climbed the classic 'Eve, Right Hand' which Franco and I prompty soloed as well.

After a warm down here, on routes such as Pluto Variant - we journied to Barker's as Luke and I WANTED the fantastic 'New Dimensions'! Franco soloed it first while i took a video of him then i tried it, but with little confidence in my ascent i didnt request a video....i was gutted when i topped out!

Luke then climbed the line and we rejoined below 'Sculptured Wall'. Luke climbed the route with ease and then Franco tried it but didn't complete it as he was feeling abit 'weird'. I climbed the line with a few anxious moments but ultimately, the route was straightforward and stepping right onto the front of the buttress was 'nicely exposed'.

We did some warm down routes and i tried in vein to stop Lewis backing off routes he couldn't get first time! I failed, but next time i will get him up 'The Cleft'!

It was now very late 10.30ish so we dashed back to the car and drove back to Castleton where i dropped everyone off. I then had a mini epic as when Franco tried to close the car boot. The latch didnt work. He tried and failed so i just drove down and tried to fix it myself....i failed. Unfortunately failure wasn't an option as the battery would have died with the car internal lights on, so i set to work dismantelling the locking mechanism. I succeeded and i was very happy, i updated my logbook and then went to bed at nearly 1am, very knackered.

First Lakes trip of '08 and the wonders of 'Automobiles'

After all Franco's climbing recently, i was prepared to travel to the lakes regardless of weather just so i was away from the Moors and the thought of College, which was in a couple of days. I travelled over with Neil Cookson to pick Franco up from Penrith train station then we shot over to the CMC climbing hut and then walked to Eagle Crag (Grisedale) to climb 'Kestrel Wall' which was the plan for Neil for his Birthday and the reason we were in the Lakes.

Neil on the Classic, 'Kestral Wall'

After he climbed this however, Franco and I embarked on 'Horse Power' on the Upper Tier. I climbed 'Pericles' to the Upper tier, this contained some good, if slightly committing 4c climbing up a groove but it was a good warm up for the E2. After a bit of a faff, we both climbed the route on lead as i climbed up first but required a OO friend, so Franco climbed it with the friend and did it, the highlight of the route being a boldish swing right on a good hold then rocking over onto a large 'flake' style block. A first E2 in the Lakes.

The Next day we ventured to Borrowdale and after many disagreements, (based around going to 'Black Crag' for Prana , 'Eagle Crag (Borrowdale)', 'Sergeant Slabs' for Asphasia or 'Bleak How') we decided Eagle Crag was the way forward, lured by the plethora of ***'ed E2's and E3's! However, see soon found that this classic crag was exactly that, a classic crag. I looked as though climbing had not been done here for decades! We set off up 'Post Mortem' and after a VERY sketchy, green, vegetated and loose 5a first pitch we had me on the edge all the way with a crux overhanging groove at the top. I got to the ledge. How could 5a feel as bad as that! I was thoroughly exhausted and very very dirty. I brought Franco up and we laughed at how 'epic' it was! Unfortunately, Franco couldn't climb the 5c overhanging offwidth and i wasn't feeling up to it at all, seeing as Franco is climbing so much better than me at the moment. We abbed off. There was alot of bird activity around the otherside of the crag, we thought they were Eagles, but they were probably actually Peregines after we saw them 'swooping' but im no Ornothologist!Franco on the Horrific Offwidth

After this setback and a lot of time lost (but not wasted!) we walked around the hill to Bleak How, where due to time issues we climbed 'Psyched Out' and 'Bleak How Eliminate' which were only 20m which is abit tame for the Lakes but needs must. It meant we could push ourselves.
Franco on 'Bleak How Eliminate'
Franco and I climbed Psyched Out and then Franco climbed the Eliminate. A very good effort and i really fancied a crack at it! but it was too late i seconded him up and we ran down to get a lift. A good day was had in actual fact and we know that the area is CERTAINLY worth another visit.The Aptly named, Raven's Scar

We returned to the Moors, on the saturday as the weather system moved from the East to the West so we did a superb job in avoiding bad climbing conditions. Me and Franco then decided a trip to Raven's Scar was in order. I have now passed my driving test so i drove to Hasty Bank and we set off for Raven's Scar... unfortuntely, we didn't have a rope as confusion after the lakes trip had left us Ropeless. We however, undeterred soloed some classic easier stuff at Raven's Scar and a greasy, scary E1. After a few videos of classic lines we walked to Wainstones where there were some climbers who nicely lent us a spare rope, which Franco used to dispatch Ali Baba -E2, again for the 7th time?!

Some 'trippy' camera trick Franco managed. A few more solos and then i drove home to Neil's 'birthday meet' in the Downe Arms. A decent Saturday was had and the weather was actually superb!

Wales - Slate, Slate, Slate.

Franco and I travelled down to Wales, with Franco's parent's who were going to visit a friend in the area. We looked at the climbing around Llanberis and obviously knew there was PLENTY to do. We decided to try and divide our time between 'the Pass' and the Welsh Slate Quarries, Franco had his eye on a few hard lines. However, during the 4 days the weather was VERY changeable and we never did get up 'the Pass', still a good time was had around the Quarries climbing some very nice lines!

Bus Stop Quarry

We got to Wales on Saturday around mid afternoon and ventured up to 'Bus Stop Quarry' which my guidebook had 3 routes in, we decided that people would probably be there with a guide. There were and our first route on Slate was 'Equinox' - VS 4c. We climbed the route Solo, finish right, which is actually the line of the HVS, but it looked easier and more likely to be the route at the time. We then got the ropes out and climbed a Sport route (a first for me) called 'Whizz Bang' which we didn't know the grade of, it was hard work; crimpy and reachy and i rested and it turned out to be F6c.

Me on Equinox At this point, i knew i didn't really like Slate my shoes weren't sticking as well on the edges as well as Franco's Shoes, so when we left 'Bus Stop' to 'Dali's Hole' i just belayed Franco on a couple of routes, namely 'Launching Pad' - E1 5b, however Franco was unaware that a siderunner could be put in the crack to the right, so his ascent probably deserves E2.

The Bizzare Lake, at Dali's Hole

We then wandered over to Serengeti and bivvyed. It was quite chilly with a gusty wind blowing around and the noise of the Hydroelectric Plant kept me awake for sometime. Next thing it was about 5.30am and it was cold. We got up and Franco climbed 'Seamstress' - VS and 'Seams the Same' - E1/2 in good style and then he soloed the VS twice more before i had to drop a rope down for him when he tried to climb it Barefoot!

Serengeti Slab - Seamstress
We then wandered back to Dali's Hole and Franco climbed 'Holy, Holy, Holy' - E2 and i decided to second him and then lead it the next day, but i did get myself on 'Lauching Pad' - E1 as it looked ok today so far i hadn't really climbing anything so i was feeling abit shit. Then we wandered over, again to Bus Stop Quarry as we needed to find people with a guide! Franco and I soloed 'Equinox' - VS again and then Franco Led 'Scarlet Runner' - E3/4 which was quite annoying, as i had no chance; it's his kind of climbing though - Crimps and rockovers on small edges!

Anthony on 'Holy, Holy, Holy'
Tonight we slept in a old building, but the wind was knocking slates down and Rat faeces forced us to set my tent up; it didn't rain so i didn't have to dry it which i was happy about. We got up reasonably early and set off to Bus Stop, Franco climbed Equinox again and i talked myself out of a lead of 'Fool's Gold' - E1 i just didn't like the line it took! So we went back to Dali's Hole Again! and i climbed 'Holy, Holy, Holy' - E2 as i had promised myself. We also messed around on a few Sport climbs and then Franco Dogged the E4 called 'The Chiselling' which was a bloody good effort as i couldn't do the first crux so i handed my second to a good climber who was watching with interest, a bloke called Anthony who had just climbed 'Holy...' he enjoyed the route and did well. I was glad i didn't dog my way up on second.
We then searched for a place to bivvy, and once found decided a good meal at Pete's Eat's was in order, so we walked down and got LOADS of food and PINT'S of tea! - Great stuff!
We bivvyied in a small three sided roofed building, that night the rain began quite heavily and it was the stormiest night so far, the structure was good but it couldn't keep out the storm we got quite wet and cold. Ah... the joys of Bivvying!

We got up, cold and tired and walked down to Pete's for tea! a good warm up and the weather now retreating we headed to Vivian Quarry, reckoning that it would be quiet up there seeing as the weather had been miserable. It was quiet so we jumped on 'Comes The Dervish' Franco took a while on it but climbed it Clean and i was highly impressed. I not liking slate was left to decide whether or not to 'lose my Onsight' or try it on lead, which i'd have probably fallen off! I decided i'd rather Second Franco clean than Dog my way up on lead. I did second him cleanly and thoroughly enjoyed it, i don;t think i would have if i'd dogged my way up or backed off!

Comes the Dervish - Vivian Quarry
I made sure though, that before we left Wales, i did one thing. We walked over to Bus Stop and i got on 'Fools Gold' straight away, the crux is VERY well protected and i ended up running it out to the top after placing a cam from the creaky ledge. I very nice route and i felt i'd given Slate a good go, even if i don't like climbing on it!
Tonight was our best nights sleep, we slept under a good roof with a clean floor and even though it rained it was warm and dry. We went home feeling tired but having done alot of good climbing, Franco however wasn't finished, he was meeting Jack from Harrogate to climb at Brimham before heading to the Peak for a week, i was left to go home to study for Chemistry and Environmental Science A levels, ah well....

Old Haunts

Franco and I returned to Captain Cook crags, to visit the areas we had previously not paid attention to, such as the 'greener' end of Cooks Quarry and also it would be my first visit to Cockshaw hill, reputed to have the worst rock quality of any crag in the guide/the Moors.

We climbed for a good 2 hours on 'The Nose' which has a good concentration of harder routes which are bold in character, being a bit too big to solo but with no gear meaning a lead is out of the question really. We managed to gibber up 'The Nose - E2 5b' but decided to leave and seekout Cockshaw Hill, before we left the crag.

We arrived at Cockshaw with about 40-50 minutes before our pickup, so i raced around trying to climb all the routes i could, starting with the nice HVS solos at the left end of the crag and then a gibbering solo up 'Cut and Run - E1 5c'. I then got to work on the 3 E2's that are all in the same place! the best line being 'Morning Wall - E2 5c' which takes a flake crack set in a small corner, the crux is low, and i luckily got it without much problem, i couldn't however, repeat this feat.

Franco then turned his attention to 'Mind Release - E2 6a' a line he had previously thought 'abit mad' but we dispatched the line after a couple of goes each, the rock quality is questionable on the middle section but the climbing is good, reachy and strenuous, after this we enjoyed the sunset and then walked back to the car park.

This was a much more productive day than the last time we journeyed to 'Esoterica'. A few weeks back we went to Esklets and the strong wind, light rain and overall 'inability' to climb, so this is what we do when were bored at crags.

Wainstones - Unfinished Buisness and a first E3

The Wainstones has some amazing rock climbs, in a great location with a great deal of history and it is for good reason, one of the better known crags in North Yorkshire; but for some reason when it comes to climbing, i can never reach my full potential at the place.
We walked up in great conditions to the crag, the sun was shining and there was a light breeze, the rock was dry and the temperature just right, myself and Franco both had routes we wanted to do.
For me, my first E3 was on the cards, West Sphinx Direct was the main goal of the day whereas Franco, (who had climbed the route before with Luke Hunt) wanted to bag Ali Baba another classic low grade Extreme. We started off however, with me climbing another route i was yet to do, Sesame. It takes an awkward unprotected groove in the Garfit buttress, then traverses right to finish up an awkward wide crack. At E1, this bold climb had put me off but it was the start to Ali Baba so i needed doing and i wanted the tick so i did it, but not without managing to become stuck in the exit crack!

I then wandered off and climbed Jackdaw Wall, another route on my list which was easier than expected but a decent line all the same.
Franco at this point was gearing up for Ali Baba, however the only gear he took was a sling and a quickdraw to sling the Chockstone. He climbed the groove with grace and then found the next section to be 'Jug Hauling' a bit of hold testing and ideas from me belaying resulted in Franco unlocking the Top out Sequence and a 'Woooo' was 'bellowed' around the 'Stones.
Franco came down and declaired the climbing easy, so i geared up and set off. The Intial bulge was easy this time and then the jug hauling excellent, in a great exposed position but with the safety of gear. The topout was awkward but exhilarating, im glad we decided to give this one a go! It is probably a low 5c but i think giving it 5b would be dangerous.

We then sauntered over for a bit of a boulder on 'The Bulge Super Direct'. At E1 5b i decided it would be bold 5b climbing, as i couldn't see any gear. In actual fact it was seriously bold outing, which had me thinking i was definitely off! Luckily my crimp stuck and i was able to finish the route... a route which was more frightening and more difficult than Ali Baba in my opinion! And probably deserves E2 5c?

We then walked to the Sphinx, a towering piece of rock which is of course shaped like a Sphinx! The main line that always grabbed my attention was 'West Sphinx Direct' this was my target for the day and at E3 it would be my first major extreme. I set off, the first moves i knew were bold and awkward but they went ok. I was at the break, time to fill it with gear! This however was not the case. I found the gear was quite poor as i had forgotten to double the rope over i was on a single so gear was placed to one side of me and ignoring Franco's Beta to place a cam in the good hand hold i made my first reach to the Pocket. No chance.
I bimbled around replacing gear and looking for new stuff, but i ended up with a size 3 nut which was badly placed and a bomber micro wire. I got my feet up and made the move. Piss.
I had the jug, i don't know why it felt easy this time but i still shouted a swear word as i knew the gear wouldn't hold!

I topped out on my first E3 and decided my previous faliures no Telli and Acme Wall were worth it, im glad my first E3 was in the Moors and im glad it was on the Sphinx at the Wainstones.
Will i climb it again? I don't think so, unless my opposing wire placements improve!
What a day and i finally feel i've climbed at my best at the Wainstones, i wish days like these lasted for ever.

Scotland, Ben Nevis & Polldubh

A 4 day trip to Scotland, which was going to be Franco and I's first winter trip ended up being pretty eventful and a good experience.
We drove up in IanJacksons car, with all the problems that can create, such as getting lost (temporarily in Glasgow) then having to follow a Gritter (and a line of 4 or 5 cars that were unwilling to overtake), until it was safe to overtake being some of the things we will look back on!

We arrived at the North Face Car Park and set up a bivvy. Franco and Ian were sleeping in the Car and I was outside. Before this however, the beginning of what was to later going to be a topic of 'serious' debate - Food... Ian had opted for the full works, stove, pans and warm food. Me and Fran had got 1 stove a kettle (for brews) and cold food. This didn't fit with Ian's Philosophy on Food and kept referring to 'not being able to suvive in Chamonix if we couldn't cook!' as his way of justifing warm food.

The first night was eventful, as i got very warm and had to cool off which was very annoying as the superheating of my sleeping bag had woken me up, this however was not a major issue the next time i woke up was far worse. I woke up numb. About an inch of snow had collected on my sleeping bag and face and i was extremely cold indeed, so i brushed off the snow and curled up and went back to sleep.

'CHUGGER CHUGGER CHUGGER....COUGH COUGH COUGH GASP... Fuckin' 'ell! The time was 6am and Ian had turned the car engine on to 'hotbox' the car, however at the time my head had been facing the Exhaust so i got a good face full of CO and god knows what else...

We wandered up the track to the North Face, it wasn't as impressive as people had made out, but it was still a good looking piece of rock. We made for the CIC and then up towards Green Gully (IV 4***) a fine route to have as your first winter line and i thoughly looked forward to the experience. On the way however, Franco managed to trigger a Windslab slip, which sent us all back down the slope, pretty darn quickly! I however, managed to get a decent arrest in and ended up quite a way above Ian and Franco. Franco, had unfortunately lost his axes in the slide so he set off discruntled and disappointed back to the Car, leaving me and Ian to climb Green Gully.The climb itself was pretty straight forward, Ian leading the first 3 pitches, however we ran it out so quite often we were moving together which was pretty quick paced and made the climbing more enjoyable as there were very few cold belays. I led the last pitch over the Cornice, using a 'rockover' technique to conquer my first Winter route.

After the successes of the first day, the next was a bit of a disappointment as heavy snow made us decide to give the Ben a miss. This was a good idea as it let Ian have a rest day which allowed him to take Franco up Point 5 gully the day after which was the Tuesday.

Wednesday came and it was our day for returning to North Yorkshire, but myself and Ian wanted to get another route done, so we raced up to Smith's route and set out up the route to the left - Kellet's Route (VI 6***), which was tough but Ian climbed it well and seconding up i was fully aware of his abilities. We then managed to switch position in the Belay Cave and Ian Led off up Smith's Route (V 5***) which he dispatched with Ease.

I then set off up after him, the ice was somewhat poor going out of the cave and i had an awkward few moments as i took out an Ice screw and an Ice thread. Then i set off up the impressive bulging Ice face toward the next screw. I reached this and tentitavely removed the Ice screw, aware i didn't have very good Ice Axe placements. I then smashed on, until i decided one of my placements wasn't very good, but it was awkward to get back out and when i finally did i was much more tired and eventually much to my annoyance, i fell off...

I did more than just rest on the rope though, as after the inital safety of the rope was felt i then began to plummit, everything had happened so fast that i wasn't aware of why what was happening was happening, all i did know what that the two climbers in red which at one point were below me, were now about level with me and the two blue coated climbed below were fast becoming much more focused. I hit the face several times, and the snow below was fast approaching, but i wasn't hurt... Everything hadn't gone black. THUD. BOUNCE. Scrape.... i hit the snow below and shot off down towards the CIC. The rope then came tight...I knew at this point that Ian wasn't 'following me down' as i had feared.

I loitered around unhurt at the base of the climb talking to the second of the other party who explaned a few of the minor details of the fall such as; How far i had fallen, to which he responded 40+ metres, which was about right as i fell to the end of the 60m rope. He also told me that mainly my Rucksack (stuffed with a spare rope and a SIGG took most of the impact from the wall and this was certainly true when i found my HEAVILY dented SIGG!!! - A momento to the event.

At this point i was totally unaware of Ian's Injury. I was curious to how i had ended up down at the base of the cliff but just couldn't think of a reason. Anyway, about an hour passed and i learned like Ian had broken my fall and in the process had broken 2 fingers.

We were helped out by 4 climbers on the Ben that day, unfortuately the only names i can remember are Philip (the second) and Duncan (Just climbed Point 5) These chaps certainly made things alot easier and we were quickly down to the CIC and then back to Fort William.

The Epic was by no means over.

Ian spent the night in the Belford so me and Franco searched for cheap accomodation. We found many of the 'hostels' on the maps were actually just shabby B&B's that charged high prices, so we decided we may as well make for Glen Nevis Youth Hostel, which was extortionate as well. We returned to the car, tired at 1 am.

The next day Ian showed us a hostel he knew of and it was cheaper (not by much) so he stayed in there, but me and Franco opted to the car, using the washing facilities availible to us in Fort William and Glen Nevis... Food was bought at the local Lidl and left a lot to be desired, bread being a luxury.

On the friday, keen to do something with our fast running out holiday and for me to see if i had 'lost my head' we ventured to Polldubh to do some climbing. I hadn't brought my guide and luckily Franco had brought his Anasazi's so i set about laying to rest the ghost of 'Clapham Junction' (HVS 5a) which i had backed off on a previous visit thinking it was 'only' VS and not worth the effort! (Lazy)

Did some other good routes, including 'Above Us Only Sky' (E3 6b?) but i dogged it, falling trying to make the crux move. A good day though and the fall (something i haven't done a lot of in my climbing year, but it felt pretty megre in comparison!)

We returned to Fort William and slept in the Car again, until the arrival of Ian's Parents allowed us to spend 1 night in the hostel. Luckily, that night in the bar 'Jeff' was playing which didn't seem very special, however, it was like i had plugged my Ipod into a speaker as he was playing a tremendous array of very cool songs which kept me going all the way back to Yorkshire.

We climbing the morning after we arrived home and it was good to be back! Albeit it rained to it was only a brief bit of climbing.

Lucky trip, but i certainly enjoyed it!

Local Cragging - Park Nab

(Bouldering Zero Route & below Bouldering on Lion King)

We stopped doing this for quite a while, but recently the lifts have been hard to come by and the weather windows small, so Camp Hill and Park Nab have been looked upon favourably once more. Today a trip to Park Nab was arranged and we managed a few routes before the rain began to downpour and the wind began to rage.
Did alot of routes i'd done before, climbing for milage rather than "grades" and this was good fun and took me back to where it all began. We got some good photos on some Park Nab classics as well.

(The Superb Chairmans Climb)
The best route of the day was the superb 'Hara Kiri' a route i wish to solo ever since i lead it back in October, but never really saw it as very important. In actual fact i soloed it twice for good measure. Long Bow as well, probably contributing to the polish, but a superb route non the less. Decided i wanted to do Chairman's Climb as well, as this is "high" and exposed which was good practice in the howling wind. A decent day until we went to NOS and climbed the V4 6a traverse and it started to rain. Bollox

(The great reach of Hara Kiri)

Dogs

My dogs, often used as Boulder Mats...

TamFlynn

Evening Cragging - Camp Hill

The time has come, the nights are pulling out and the clocks are about to go forward, so everything is ready to start a full on assault of the local crags after College. Indeed, the first Cleveland MC meet is on the next Tuesday at Park Nab.

Wednesday night was used to test this evening cragging theory, and although the clock issue would greatly improve daylight, but there was enough to get a few routes nailed, including the project to the left of Cling Wrap finishing as for the direct, a route we called 'Cling Wrap - Tin Foil Variation' and was a good test of balance and nerve, the top moves being unprotected and reachy, with a balancy pocket manoeuvre to gain the headwall.

Unfortunately an attempt at the E3 'Waves Within' was looked on as 'impossible' until we consulted the guidebook back at home, where we found the start was not direct! but actually gained the flake from the right! Ah well, that leaves Jester HVS, Ace of Winds HVS and Waves Within E3 to be climbed.

The evening was a success however, as i reclimbed Franco's tough traverse at a sustained 5c, and also the delicate 'Mad Axeman' HVS as well as Cling Wrap Direct and the F.A, E1 and E1/2. I was particularly happy with these, as i certainly found the top out bold and reachy off crimps and tiny edges for your feet. I didn't fancy the fall, which was only about 6/7 metres, but still.

Unfortunately blurred, but this is the pocket section on the F.A (Quite Artistic i thought!)

Cragging whatever the Weather

The Saturday saw Franco, Lewis and Matthew (Mini) Cooper, journey to Ingleby Incline for some photos of the Classic 'Cosy Corner' for Franco's Article on Moors climbing. I however, elected to go to the match, which we won 1-0.

The snow had been forecast and it was delivering, snowing quite considerably for many hours a day, usually in showers.
Franco, Lewis and Mini managed to get some good shots at the crag and returned home, which left one more crag on the hitlist for the weekend; the imposing, north facing Highcliffe Nab above Guisborough.

We travelled there in the snow and when we got there, the light covering of snow made the crag seem quite pleasant, indeed it seemed to make it look somewhat smaller. I geared up and tackled Scarecrow Crack, so Franco could get some pictures of this Moors Classic and then i tried the start of Stargazer, a summer project of mine.Franco, then wanted a photo of the other Highcliffe classic, 'Highcliffe Crack' but only really succeeded in getting freezing hands, climbing as he was on the Verglassed Northerly Face.
We returned home, in glorious sunshine just before the fresh wave of snow showers struck, a good day actually.

CAMP HILL - MONDAY
On the Monday, due to the bank holiday we decided to give climbing a miss and i helped my dad with some fence building in the field. However, the day was cold and crisp and Franco arranged to go with Ian Jackson and Luke Hunt to Scugdale to have a spot of bouldering. However, the snow rolled in and we decided that somewhere closer to home would be better. Initially, NOS boulder was the venue but somewhere between putting the phone down and picking me up the decision had been made to go to Camp Hill, somewhere i hadn't been for sometime. No ropes or gear were brought so i couldn't try 'Ace of Winds' so we just bouldered around for an hour or so, inbetween snow showers. Franco's Traverse fell which was good, as it has some good moves on sloping crimps and mono pockets and then finished up the superb 'Cling Wrap', we then tried a slight variation to Cling Wrap direct, but it wasn't the right conditions, something for the future perhaps. All in all another good day, something i never thought would happen with all the pessimistic talk of 'terrible' weather on the forecasts, i think im going to stop listening to them!

The plan for 2008

The beginning of 2008 started well; good weather, various holidays and most importantly the homework just wasn't there so climbing could be done with little consequence. However, come mid February, this changed. The weather worsened and as i sit here now the rain batters the window to my right, seising for only seconds before the next wave comes in, also such things as Chemistry coursework and 'mock' examinations have blighted many attempts of getting on the shed wall!
Currently bored out of my head, i've decided to list the plans for i have for 2008.

2008 Targets - Climbing
0. Anything Hard - Ongoing
1. Don't Fluff It (E4) - Stanage
2. Fred (E4) - Ravenswick Quarry

1. E3 at least 10 times. - Incomplete
1. West Sphinx Direct - Wainstones
2. Prowess - Scugdale (Scot's)
3. Above Us Only Sky - Polldubh
4. Psyched Out - Bleak How
5. New Dimensions - Scugdale (Barker's)
6. Sculptured Arete - Scugdale (Barker's)
7. Black Magic - Ravenswick Quarry
8. Bummelzug - Ravenswick Quarry
9. Needle Arete - Black Crag (Wrynose Pass)
10. Veteren - Rylstone

2. Keep the E1 and E2 onsight ticks coming - Ongoing
1. Ali Baba (Wainstones) - E2
2. West Sphinx Climb (Wainstones) - E2
3. Sesame (Wainstones) - E1
4. Morning Wall (Cockshaw Hill) - E2
5. Barren Waste (Slipstones) - E2
6. Keep Peddaling (Stanage) - E2
7. Fool's Gold (Bus Stop Quarry) - E1
8. Space Truckin' (Slipstones) - E1
9. Horse Power - Eagle Crag (Grisedale) - E2
10. Fever Pitch - Raven's Scar - E2
11. Satchmo - Raven's Scar - E2
12. Eve (Right Hand) - Scugdale (Scot's) - E2
13. Summit Crisis - Wainstones - E2
14 Left Hand Variation - Wainstones - E2
15. White Wall - Ravenswick Quarry - E2
16. Franco's Wall - Ravenswick Quarry - E2
17. Solstice - Ravenswick Quarry - E1/2
18. Crazy Diamond & Monument Crack - Rylstone - E2 & E1
19. Wombat - Highcliffe Nab - E1
20. Glass Slipper - Black Crag (Wrynose) - E2

3. Work E4/5, on routes that i don't really want to onsight. E.G - Pyscho Syndicate - Incomplete

4. Try my hand at a bit of bouldering, probably at Slipstones - Incomplete
Too Hard! - 'Sulky Little Boys' looked Desperate!
1. V7 Traverse - Ravenswick Quarry - Worked!

5. Try my hand at Sport climbing, aiming for F6c/7a - dependant on holiday!
Welsh Slate - Whizz Bang F6c - Rested on Bolt though.

5.5 Try to get some winter routes under my belt. Aiming for a III/IV if im lucky, but any winter routes will do this year! - COMPLETED - Green Gully IV
6. Climb 'Difficile' / 'Tres Difficle' in the Alps, if i can get there this year. (Unable to complete due to knee)

7. Complete the 'Middlehead project' - Incomplete
Probably not going to happen, though i intend to return and climb 'Beowulf'

8. Climb/help Franco on his FA at Ingleby, 'Physical Graffiti'. - Incomplete
9. Climb around the UK on many different rocktypes - Ongoing
So Far: Sandstone, Gritstone, Quarried Grit, Slate, Mica Schist, Limestone, Magnesian Limestone, Rhyolite.

10. Climb more Multipitch Extremes in the Lakes/Wales/Scotland. - Ongoing
1. Post Mortem - Eagle Crag (Borrowdale) - E3 (Not finished but alot learned!)
2. Horse Power - Eagle Crag (Grisedale) - E1/2 (First pitch is a different route)
3. Spring Bank - Gimmer Crag (Langdale) - E2 (First pitch is a different route)
11. Attempt 'The Wall' at Oak Crag - Incomplete/HARD
Had a look, it seemed a tad hard!
12. Free climb the Aid line at Kay Nest - Incomplete / Impossible
No, doesn't look like we'll go here. If i go down Billsdale i'll do the Classic of the Valley at Highcrag
13. Climb the unclimbed face at Turkey Nab - Incomplete / Impossible
Had a gander... looked possible but dangerous!
14. Climb the 'imposing' face at Kepwick - Incomplete / Impossible

15. Have a go at 'Wedge Route' at Cringle Crag - Incomplete
Visited - Looked fine but it was seeping. We consoled ourselves with a Free ascent of Terry's Dilema! :-) Will return if we get a dry spell next year probably!
16. Climb at least 5 routes on my UKC Wishlist! - Ongoing - Upgraded to ......?! :-)
1. Clapham Junction (HVS) - Polldubh - Done
2. Ali Baba (E2) - Wainstones - Done
3. West Sphinx Direct (E3) - Wainstones - Done
4. Jackdaw Wall (E2) - Wainstones - Done
5. Satchmo (E2) - Raven's Scar - Done
6. Fever Pitch (E2) - Raven's Scar - Done
7. New Dimensions (E3) - Scugdale (Barker's) - Done
8. Sculptured Arete (E3) - Scugdale (Barker's) - Done
9. Gehenna! (HVS or E2? ;-) - Beacon Scar - Done
10. Needle Arete (E3) - Black Crag (Wrynose) - Done
11. Jumping Jack Flash (E2) - Goldsborough - Done
12. Crazy Diamond (E2) - Rylstone - Done
13. Ace of Winds (HVS) - Rylstone - Done

2008 Targets - Physical/Mental

1. Attempt more climbs with Roofs, in order to beat my nemesis!
1. Ali Baba (Wainstones) -E2
2. Mind Release {Solo} (Cockshaw Hill) - E2
3. Horse Power (Eagle Crag - Grisedale) - E2
4. Dat Der (Peak Scar) - VS
5. Pericles {Solo} (Eagle Crag - Grisedale) - HVS
6. Ace of Winds (Camp Hill) - HVS
7. The Other (Eston Nab) - HVS
8. Spring Bank (Gimmer) - E1/2
9. Gehenna (Beacon Scar) - HVS (Not truly a Roof just a big Niche)
10. Monument Crack (Rylstone) - E1 (Tackled the Roof without gear in order to combat fear)

2. Lost 1/2 a stone at least, but really aiming for somewhere near a Stone to bring me to 10.7s
Trying - seem to be skinnier since the wales trip!
No weight lost!
3. Work on upper body strength and finger strength for slabs and for Roofs. - Ongoing

4. Fix knee and build up the 1/2 inch waste on my left thigh. - Ongoing
Apparently i need to get on with it... hopefully this is the case and it will get better. Im undecided

5. Run, at least twice a week once the knee is fixed!

6. Take some lead falls on Gear just to gain some trust. - Ongoing
1. Ben Nevis and Polldubh!!

The Incline

Ingleby Incline, a crag i had wanted to go to for sometime, especially since Steve Crowe recommended it, with an aim of climbing 'Time Captain', something i currently use as a target.
Getting to Ingleby had been somewhat, awkward however.

Franco journied to the crag twice before me, ticking most of the soloable routes in our grade range. So the quicker i got there the better! Middlesbrough Matches and bad weather got in the way, but finally i got to Ingleby with Franco and set about climbing the routes Franco had done and then having a look at the FA's Franco has his heart set on.

Me on 'Liberty - E1 5c'

The Crag itself if in a fantastic position, situated at the top end of the valley with views across to Hasty Bank and down to the wooded valley bottom. The first route i did at the crag was Pepsi - HVS and it was a nice introduction to the crag, showing that with nearly all the routes, the climbing is quite thin, and the top outs are always interesting!!

'Where's the next route then?'

Then had a look at a few other problems, Namely 'Geronimo - E2 5c' which was nice and pumpy and quite bold and with one eye on Franco's FA, we decided to leave it. Franco tried is FA for a while and i soloed around and had a look at some buttresses. Then it started to rain. More to come from Ingleby, i would think.

Me on one of the slabby routes at Ingleby, just before the Hailstorm.

Eating Ginger Cake, while sheltering from a mild hailstorm.

Scugdale - climbing well, but not well enough!

The third weekend of February was very similar to the second, tropical! So Franco and I fresh after returning from Pavey Ark on the Saturday night ventured to Scugdale to finally finish some routes we had wanted to do there. ‘New Dimensions’ and ‘Finger Jam’ were the routes on my wishlist. We however, stopped off at ‘The Shelf’ and after gaining the shelf and having a bit of a warm up, we decided that the effects on our hands wasn’t good so we went straight over to Cleft Buttress. The overhanging crack of New Dimensions looks technical and awkward, so we gave it a go. The lower wall is a sequence of moves that leads to a long reach to a good pocket; however the upperwall is hard and tiring. We gave up and tried Finger Jam.

This wasn’t a good idea, because we ended up trying Finger Jam for sometime and completed it, we were now tired. Then Franco found ‘Elimination’ which he tried and tried and then suddenly he held the sloped and shot of leftwards to finish the climb. I was left with the feeling I had to try it so I did. An awkward pocket allows a reach up to a small but reasonably positive crimp. Feet up and a reach to another reasonably positive pocket, then a long reach or ‘pop’ for the sloper. The route is made harder by the fact it is just as overhanging as New Dimensions. After a few goes however and considerable amounts of finger pain and shoulder ache, the route fell to me too. We then attempted New Dimensions once again, but we found we were far too pumped so this again will have to be left till later!

Getting it wrong on New Dimensions!

We returned to Scugdale to try New Dimensions, but it was awful. It was blowin' a gale and the rock was slightly damp so we journied back to Scugdale Popular and climbed 'The Shelf'. A problem i had wanted to do for a while now, so i was glad to do it. A good, fun and not without interest (the top out) route that packs a lot in to a small climb. Good Value.

The Peak

The second weekend in February saw ridiculous temperatures and fantastic amounts of sun! The plan was to travel to the ‘Peak’ and get on some Grit stone, something I had only experienced in Yorkshire, at Slipstones.
We motored down to Stanage, as Ian Jackson wanted to have a shot at ‘Black Hawk Bastion’ at Popular. So Franco and I went searching for nice routes that weren’t currently populated with climbers and we found a route called Hybrid. A nice route, however, we got a bit of a shock when the Para-gliders started whizzing past! Not something I’ve ever experienced on the Moors.
After this, we thought we’d try something harder, so we carried on along Popular until we found a route that really appealed to us both. ‘Keep Pedalling’. At E2, it was at our grade pinnacle, so we assessed the climb from below, it was a solo.

Climbing it was a good test of nerve and technique and it propelled us on to thinking perhaps E3 would fall to day. So we carried on to the Plantation, and there we tried Telli. However, failure was all that we managed on Telli so it’s a definite example of ‘next time’.

Franco then disappeard off further into the Plantation buttresses, and then returned with a huge smile on his face. He took me to this route and I checked the guidebook. E4 5c. Were not E4 climbers, but this was too good to turn down. So Franco soloed up and made the awkward and delicate moves to the bulge. Pulled around and it was over. My turn, the initial crack was good fun and the first few moves on the delicate slab were fun, however, the height was suddenly apparent and the slopers were quite un-nerving. I dithered but then made slightly different moves to Franco up the bulge.
After taking some pictures of a climber on Cavalry and the Para-gliders we returned to find Ian Jackson and Ian Moore and after Ian finished is ‘usual’ solos we left to find a bivi spot.


We biviied in the Burbage Car Park hardly ‘roughing it’ but a funny experience all the same. We chatted for a few hours, usually about the food Ian and Ian were tucking into (sausages and Pasta). The water that it had been cooked in had turned brown and was poured away behind Ian Jackson; this was hilarious so I took a picture.
We then heckled Franco, because he believes the “Southern” climate would allow him to sleep without a sleeping bag. (See picture), he was wrong. The lovely days meant for freezing nights.


The next day we went to Burbage North, we had a go soloing some routes and Franco lead a bold E2 eliminate, and Ian Jackson and Ian Moor lead some classic routes with ‘Big Ian’ leading ‘Long Tall Sally’. We then motored off to Lawrencefield, were Franco and Ian Jackson had a pop at ‘Suspence’. Succeeding they were very happy with themselves! Ian Moore and I went for more leisurely ascents of the very nice ‘Meringue’ and ‘Once Pegged Wall’

Ian Jackson then tried ‘Billy Whizz’ but found the upper crack was damp and greasy and he took a rather large slump, in his words something I would consider to be a 20-30ft fall! All in all good trip to ‘the Peak’

Spring Comes Early.

(For a day!) The weather had been exceptionally windy, which was a blessing in disguise because although there had been damage to property and roads closed due to falling debris and toppled lorries, the crags were bone dry. Come sunday, even the wind had subsided, so we decided to travel to the Wainstones, which we found were in perfect condition.

I had some gremlins to settle, mostly the boulder problems i had not paid enough attention to, namely Pebble Climb V3. Got the sequence in a couple of goes and finished it, i was happy. Then decided to go after another V3, with Redhead's Roof however, this is somewhat more difficult but perhaps i just didn't get the sequence, i reckon probably V4.

Staring up at the Crag, i realised that it wasn't Park Nab and that these routes were more serious, lines such as Sesame and East Sphinx Variant, that i had thought about on the drive, as being "Easy ticks" were not going to fall today, due to a lack of "high" climbing over the winter period.

Franco, nails the Sphinx Direct E3 6a.
Indeed, i did very little for such a great day, because besides the boulder problems and a good tick of 'North Route' up the Needle (something i had wanted for a year!) that was it for my climbing, the rest of the time i spent watching Ian violate the Sphinx as i took photos...

Ian, makes the crux move ofWest Sphinx Direct E3 5b.

However, it was good to revisit the crag and know that there is A LOT for me there yet, something i thought could probably be wrapped up in a couple of trips.

Really looking forward to all that the spring brings, especially the longer nights! Should mean the smaller crags around us that cannot supply a full days climbing, should be used to aid the progression and the routes that we have been unable to do, such as the E3 Waves Within at Camp Hill, should probably be climbed. Bring on Spring and the day the clocks change!

Great start to the New Year!

First climbing trip of the New Year, we decided to head to our local and almost exhausted crag, Park Nab. There were a few difficult lines that we wished to try, plus a boulder that was in need of a visit.

We climbed a variation finish on a route that had thwarted me in the past, 'Pessimist' had always been in the back of my mind, so i decided that enough was enough, so i climbed the 'Right Hand Variant' instead.
Franco then Worked Mowgli Direct (Achillies Last Stand), resulting in a bold Solo, which i did the second ascent of, however, the holds were chalked up for me and i knew the line was climbable. This detracted slightly from the climb, however, i enjoyed the fact we climbed a quality route at a quality crag.

We found the boulder, and did some lines. Good Quality and a good place to go when i am without a partner or just on summer evenings.

We however, rushed back for an evening of homework finishing and frantic revising as the Winter hols were over, and College awaited us the next day.

An Uneventful Year Ender - Farndale

First forecast good day of weather for a few days, so Me and Franco decided to go to some of our more local crags. Farndale hosts two very nice but Esoteric locations, one of which Round Crag, boasts some of the hardest and boldest routes on the Moors. We set off on our bikes to the Forgotten and somewhat un-developed Middle Head.
There were quite a few routes we had lined up there, but as we raced along the old Railway track joing Rosedale with Teeside we knew the conditions weren't right, and also, that they weren't going to improve.
Sure enough, when we reached Middle Head, the seepage was evident and the lines we wished to climb were somewhat 'Out of Condition'. We non the less geared up and attempted a route i had wanted to do for some time.
The Roof crack, which the route took was good and dry, but the Slab above was wet and dirty, so i saw it neccasary to take a sneeky step left, to gain the top more easily.
Fran then decided to try and climb the good looking unclimbed arete, which unfortunately, ended up summing up what the days climbing was. Utter Toss. Not because of the Route i hasten to add, but because it started to rain.
Rock that was trying to dry up, soon became drenched with the seepage off the moortop and try as we might, the Arete was not going to fall.. Quite the opposite, the arete caused many falls for myself and Franco.

Battered and bruised, we set off for our bikes and we decided that a rekky to Round Crag was in order. No climbing was going to get done due to the foul weather so we decided to check out routes that "looked Doo-able" and see if there was some potential for some bouldering around the Crag.

We looked at the routes and discussed the talent involved in establishing these lines. Farndale Fayre and Scut di Scun ai were both looked at in Awe. Both routes unprotected, hard 6b/c climbing with awful landing's.

We made our usual remarks when we have a disapointing day at the crag, 'We'll come back in Summer and lead some stuff and that' the response, from either party is usually 'Iy'.

We set off once more on our bikes, but this time we headed home. Damp and a tad cold due to this, it was a disappointing end to what has been a great year of climbing.

Ps. I ended up forgetting 4 Karabiners and 2 slings, so i had to journey back to Middle Head on my bike in Freezing/foggy conditions. I arrived at the crag after an awful bike ride through Snow, and frost was developing on me. My face was numb and my feet wet. I found the crag after getting lost in the Fog and saw that Verglass had developed on the crag, but was now slowly melting. I got my gear and set off home.

I arrived home, completely numb. My clothes wet and slightly frosty. My hands were blue with orange spots...(god knows why that was!) and all i wanted to do was sleep. However after a quick shower i knew i had to do my homework.

Grit - Slipstones

What i thought was my first trip to the fabled Gritstone, turned out to be a great 2 days of climbing, however, it wasn't my first day on Grit'. Grit' i was told, was only to be found in the Peak District. Never the less, the climbing on Gritstone was brilliant, the friction for ones feet was supurb compared to Yorkshire Sandstone and the Routes allowed for plenty of Soloing to be done. Indeed, as the guidebook stated, it is a good place to push one's grade.

The first route i climbed was 'Ginger Badger' HVS 5b. Good climbing and a good introduction to the crag. As was 'Breakwind Arete', a route where i fully experienced the friction of Grit. My feet smearing either side of the Arete, something that would be damn near impossible on Sandstone!.
The next route i got out the rope, 'Escalator' at HVS 5b was a good grade, but the reach at the end scared me so the rope was used, infact i had to make a small 'pop' for the top and this adequately scared me enough, to allow Nick to lead me up some good HS's and even a spot of bouldering!!!

I then climbed one of the best routes i have ever done. 'Original Route' HVS 5a was just fantastic climbing, on good holds, quite pumpy and with a terrible fall, but the route was positive and thoughly enjoyable. As was Gollingith, E1 5b just to the right. Starts up a pumpy crack. This made the finish, over the overhanging wall of 'Original Route' quite interesting!

I returned a week later with my brother. I climbed a few more routes at the crag mainly around E1 but the day was less fulfilling as my first day on Grit'. However, Beldin Variation was worth the trip! A more taxing route than Beldin itself, the start is slightly desperate and then the sloping traverse was very new to me indeed! I rammed some cams in and began the traverse. I reached the finishing crack, pumped. However, i decided it nessisary to place anothe cam. With this in, i made the 'bold' top out move. Disaster, my last Cam walked and jammed the rope under the lip of the overhang! I was left to delicately and dangerously untie on the lip of the overhang, one handed using my Nut Key!

A hell of a scarer and a good lesson for fully extending Cams!

Lakeland Classics

A flying visit to Shepherd's Crag, ended up being one of the most amazing days i've had climbing. I did not like Rhyolite at all at first, and i struggled up a VS with Lewis Dale. I then soloed a HVS called T.D.M, which scared me as i was unsure about the rock, but i was bored because Fran and Lewis were climbing on Little Chamonix. It's THAT classic lakeland route, and i wanted to do it, but it deserved something extra special. Fran answered the thought by saying "Fancy a Solo?"

71m is quite a considerable Solo, especially on polished, unfamiliar rock - even though it is a VD.

We set off, and soon we were on the georgously exposed last pitch. Pulling up on those flakes was a joy and i even had the audacity to hang around for a couple of pictures.

We spend a week in the Lakes climbing at Castle Rock, Eagle Crag (Grisedale), Durple Gill, Gowbarrow, but on the last day we did some fantastic stuff.

We returned to Castle Rock, having failed on Triermain Eliminate due to rain, we decided to go after lower numbers. I climbed Zig Zag and the Fantastic Overhanging Bastion with my brother, thus ticking two of the most celebrated routes on the Crag.

Me and Fran then turned are attention to another lakeland classic, Harlot Face. This summed up to be one of the most extreme routes we have done. It is E1 5b, it is on steep exposed terrain but it has a gentle side because of it's very well protected crux. However, we had never climbed E1 over 8m before and Rhyolite is a different propostion to good old North Yorks Sandstone.

Fran climbed the first pitch, up to the ledge at half height. This was the worst pitch, it was lacking on gear and was suffering from seepage and moss. We climbed this eventhough it was out of condition, and then came my lead, the crux.

This involves climbing the Overhanging crack of Triermain Eliminate and then swinging boldly out right onto the ajoining slab. The route then follows reasonably juggy ground to a vegetated belay, and safety. This was a great achievement, our first "proper" E1 lead and it was done in less than ideal conditions.

Climbing Mowgli

Park Nab, the crag that i will always associate with the beginning of my climbing, had a great buttress that contained some of the areas finest routes. One very wet day in the 90's, the Buttress gave way and collapsed leaving a scared area of rock, from which Mowgli was born.

The route on first glances looks impossible, an almost featureless slab of rock, but it is climbed at the resonable grade of E1 5b.

I had always gazed upon this slab, and imagined how good E1 climbers must be, as i walked from Severe to Severe and i always told myself that this was one of my climbing goals, something i would aim to achieve, perhaps before i left the area for University.

The time came however, much quicker than i expected.

2 October, one of those calm, clear days that is perfect for climbing. We had climbed E1 before, but they were less serious E1's that perhaps were overgraded, this however felt serious. Today was perfect though, so we climbed it. Something, we had never noticed was that the route traversed in from the right arete, therefore what looked like featureless wall, WAS featureless wall and the route avoided it!

It fell with remarkable ease, considering the look of the climb. Even so, it was a serious undertaking, the blocks below are scary, and the lack of gear means that a solo is the norm.

The picture illustates the severity of failure.

P.S On the 6th of January 2008, the Direct start to Mowgli fell, it is a technical climb that was solved well by my climbing partner Franco, i quickly followed and we agreed on E2 5c* for the tricky 'Achilles Last Stand'.

First E2 Onsight Lead

I had climbed E2 before. But they were reasonbly small and i had soloed them, i also, had taken two or three goes to get the moves right. These included Cold Turkey and Chilled Out at Cold Moor.
Hungry Heart at Oak Crag was different, 12 metres, 'Adequately Protected', it had the feeling of a proper E2 climb and indeed it was.
An exquisite Arete climb, on the unfortunately green main buttress of Oak Crag. It didnt matter to us though, the climbing was great, the situation is fantastic and we really felt proud about this achievement.

First Ascents

Every now and again, when we were visiting crags we'd see rock, with no noutes on them. We'd often comment and say there should be routes on there but we never did anything. Eventually, the penny dropped. Why didn't we do the routes?

The first crag we put up new routes on was the Esklets. It was a local crag and there was a lot of undeveloped rock. We put up some decent lines, and then both me and fran returned at different times to continue with the work. I returned with my Brother to create 'Eskrement' at HVS 5b (named so, to keep an Esklets Tradition going). Franco, my climbing partnet, then returned by himself and polished off several other routes.

Our next First Ascent was, 'Ling Arete' at the Wainstones. This is a major crag in North Yorkshire, so we were amazed when we found that this line was unclimbed. We decided that it was going to have to be hard, otherwise it would have been done in the past. We set up the top rope, and proceeded to work the route. The Top rope, soon led to a Pinkpoint, then a Redpoint. The Grade was HVS 5a, which seemed quite low considering the amount of effort put in, however the line is very good, and it is quite a commiting route. Indeed, it is in the Current Local Guide and the Rockfax guide, so hopefully we will see some repeats of what is definitely our best FA.

We also found a Slate quarry near Patterdale in the Lake District. It is about 10 metres high and makes for a good days entertainment should you be unable to get out of Patterdale, as is what happened to us. We found a few routes the best being 'Stormbringer' which again was HVS 5a, but the direct start was E1 5b.

In January 2008, we started our project at Park Nab. A route we thought had been climbed before, it was the direct start to 'Mowgli'. The guidebook stated 6a/b. We decided it would be a good chance to 'break' into the 6grades. We set about the bouldery start and found it was resonably difficult and that it didn't ease. Franco, who really wanted the route then set up a TR and we worked it. We found it was quite a bold problem, which was sustained and required a careful approach pulling on very positive albeit Very small edges.
Franco completed the route and then so did I. A fantastic slab climb on a featureless piece of rock, we were so proud to have done such a route, and to then find that it hadn't been climbed before was the icing on the cake!

Hopefully some more FA's should follow, as we have found people are mostly encouraging when you do find FA's.

Climbing At Camp Hill

Camp Hill, a lovely crag nestled above Botton Village in NorthYorkshire was the place we first started to achieve things. VS's, HVS's and one of my first E1's fell at this Crag. It was a good place to go and push ones grade.

The best route on the crag is Ace of Winds, which i still need to do, but the second hardest route at the crag, and one of my favourite climbs i have done, is Cling Wrap Direct (E1 5c).

We went one blustery Spring day with the idea of climbing this, which we did, Albeit on Top Rope. We did however return in the late summer and Lead it, which unfortunately put an end to our climbing at Camp Hill.

How It All Started

My brother was the one that first discovered climbing. He visited the 'Local' Climbing wall and discovered the art. He dragged me along to indoor sessions and soon i could climb. Indoors however, was not real climbing. This i found, was done on lumps of rock found in remote and cold areas of the local moors. The Rock; Sandstone was quite different from the Pastic holds of the wall. I was taught to climb by means of Top Roping at Scugdale, routes such as Alpha - HD, Beta - D and Gamma - HD were my first routes. This however, was done very rarely, perhaps once, or twice a summer that we got out and climbed outside, indeed indoor climbing was also becoming something of a rarity.

2006 was the beginning of things. A trip to Wales with the family was to rekindle the love for climbing that my brother had, and i was again to be dragged along. This however, was quite different to the North York Moors. Lumps of Sandstone were replaced with soaring cliffs of "Volcanic" rock, something i would later know as Rhyolite. We climbed on some of the smaller crags, Clogwyn Cyrau was the crag were i got some practice placing and removing gear. This was all in preparation for what was going to be one of the best expierences of my life.

The route was in the famous, Llanberis Pass; a VD route called 'Parchment Passage.'

The Rain was pouring, it was misty and cold. Typical Wales. We thought twice about it, but then went for it. Nick Lead the route in 3 pitches, and i enjoyed the Exposure and the sence of being safe 100's of metres up.

I was hooked, and the route we did the next day at Milestones Buttress; the Classic Direct Route. I lead one of the pitches and throughly enjoyed it. I knew now, this is what i wanted to do.

The winter came and climbing stopped, however, come the spring of 2007 me and Franco were constantly at the local crags try and testing our technique. We started off leading, but we soon tired of the complicated nature of tieing on and belaying and so on. We started to Solo.

It wasn't until the summer that we re-discovered our leading racks and rope, with trips to Raven's Scar and Highcliff.