Bus Stop Quarry
We got to Wales on Saturday around mid afternoon and ventured up to 'Bus Stop Quarry' which my guidebook had 3 routes in, we decided that people would probably be there with a guide. There were and our first route on Slate was 'Equinox' - VS 4c. We climbed the route Solo, finish right, which is actually the line of the HVS, but it looked easier and more likely to be the route at the time. We then got the ropes out and climbed a Sport route (a first for me) called 'Whizz Bang' which we didn't know the grade of, it was hard work; crimpy and reachy and i rested and it turned out to be F6c.
Serengeti Slab - Seamstress
We then wandered back to Dali's Hole and Franco climbed 'Holy, Holy, Holy' - E2 and i decided to second him and then lead it the next day, but i did get myself on 'Lauching Pad' - E1 as it looked ok today so far i hadn't really climbing anything so i was feeling abit shit. Then we wandered over, again to Bus Stop Quarry as we needed to find people with a guide! Franco and I soloed 'Equinox' - VS again and then Franco Led 'Scarlet Runner' - E3/4 which was quite annoying, as i had no chance; it's his kind of climbing though - Crimps and rockovers on small edges!
Anthony on 'Holy, Holy, Holy'
Tonight we slept in a old building, but the wind was knocking slates down and Rat faeces forced us to set my tent up; it didn't rain so i didn't have to dry it which i was happy about. We got up reasonably early and set off to Bus Stop, Franco climbed Equinox again and i talked myself out of a lead of 'Fool's Gold' - E1 i just didn't like the line it took! So we went back to Dali's Hole Again! and i climbed 'Holy, Holy, Holy' - E2 as i had promised myself. We also messed around on a few Sport climbs and then Franco Dogged the E4 called 'The Chiselling' which was a bloody good effort as i couldn't do the first crux so i handed my second to a good climber who was watching with interest, a bloke called Anthony who had just climbed 'Holy...' he enjoyed the route and did well. I was glad i didn't dog my way up on second.
We then searched for a place to bivvy, and once found decided a good meal at Pete's Eat's was in order, so we walked down and got LOADS of food and PINT'S of tea! - Great stuff!
We bivvyied in a small three sided roofed building, that night the rain began quite heavily and it was the stormiest night so far, the structure was good but it couldn't keep out the storm we got quite wet and cold. Ah... the joys of Bivvying!
We got up, cold and tired and walked down to Pete's for tea! a good warm up and the weather now retreating we headed to Vivian Quarry, reckoning that it would be quiet up there seeing as the weather had been miserable. It was quiet so we jumped on 'Comes The Dervish' Franco took a while on it but climbed it Clean and i was highly impressed. I not liking slate was left to decide whether or not to 'lose my Onsight' or try it on lead, which i'd have probably fallen off! I decided i'd rather Second Franco clean than Dog my way up on lead. I did second him cleanly and thoroughly enjoyed it, i don;t think i would have if i'd dogged my way up or backed off!
Comes the Dervish - Vivian Quarry
I made sure though, that before we left Wales, i did one thing. We walked over to Bus Stop and i got on 'Fools Gold' straight away, the crux is VERY well protected and i ended up running it out to the top after placing a cam from the creaky ledge. I very nice route and i felt i'd given Slate a good go, even if i don't like climbing on it!
Tonight was our best nights sleep, we slept under a good roof with a clean floor and even though it rained it was warm and dry. We went home feeling tired but having done alot of good climbing, Franco however wasn't finished, he was meeting Jack from Harrogate to climb at Brimham before heading to the Peak for a week, i was left to go home to study for Chemistry and Environmental Science A levels, ah well....