Monday, 15 August 2011

Palma Ham - Font 6c (video) - Danby Crag

We noticed a large slab, covered in moss and dripping wet and i cleaned it of the thick of the moss yesterday. The intention was to progressively just keep cleaning the slab as it dried over the days and weeks... however returning to Danby today, it looked a good deal drier than yesterday.

I first had a shunt of 'Otter Wilderness Direct' the E7? 6b route just to the left of The Hypocrisy of Moose. It's very good, two star and bold as brass. Really look forward to it and i'm hoping to find myself in a similar state of mind and ability as Fresh Arete last year.

Anyway, after this we gave the slab a look and after a quick clean from Franco he quickly soloed the upper slab with a large rockover. I however was scared by the fact the rock, when stood on or crimped, turned a damp dark brown colour. I tried Franco's method and quickly chickened out asking for a rope, which i used to clean a few more holds and practice the top moves, which was now more to my liking and then made a similar rock over but with different hands. Excellent little slab, something the moors lacks.

Franco then quickly (his second attempt) managed the direct from the ground over the undercut start, utilising the flake on the right of the 'roof'. He did it stylishly with a heel and an egyptian move to get established. I, after a few more attempts, was happy with the heel but found i would flounder while crimping on the wetting holds, but eventually managed a very ungainly and shin scraping entrance to the upper slab.

Franco rocking onto the Slab

Awkward little move

Excellent slab climbing, shame it doesn't keep going and going

The crag now has arguably 4 quality boulder problems, with the Ravine Boulder hosting a Font 6b+ Arete and a Font 6c Traverse. Chocolate Moose is a highball Font 6c+ arete which is hopefully going to become popular and now this slab, a rarity in the moors, should *hopefully* attract some attention to Danby Crag. Moreover, another E7 in the form of the Otter Wilderness Direct, should attract some attention too. Stoked.

Palma Ham E2 6a (font 6c) - Danby Crag from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.

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