Saturday, 13 August 2011

Danby, Stormy Hall and Round Crag

Feeling 90% after my recent shingles episode, I was looking foward to climbing. Franco had returned from the Lakes where he had been a couple of days, just after me.
The weather was pretty piss. Raining and grey with no real look of brightening up we waited until it had stopped and set off for Danby, both myself and Franco convincing ourselves it would remain dry.
For a sheltered, north facer it had coped well but 'Chocolate Moose' E5 6c had unfortunately developed a wet streak. Franco and I decided it was just a day for cleaning and 'looking', but we soon gave in as it was apparent the rock was actually a bit too damp to clean on 'Otter Direct'. Franco had just had a clean and shunt of 'Death Arete' which meant the trip was not a complete waste.

I was a bit disappointed by the lack of climbing and i was really interested to see if i was capable of climbing my best after the lay off and the pain in my back from the shingles. The day i fully developed shingles, i had fancied popping up to Stormy Hall and repeating Steve Ramsdens' 'Body Torque' Font 7b+ from sit, so see how it related to 'Paparazzi Arete' at Clemmitt's Crag Boulders.

Franco was stoked for this and the 'free falling' pinnacle takes no drainage so was a good bet to be dry and it was.
After some initial false starts and a visit from Dave Butler, walking home from a shift at the Lion Inn, we both eventually managed a very dynamic ascent of Body Torque.

Body Torque, Font 7b+ at Stormy Hall Boulders

After consulting Steve's Video's in the food-rich environment of Franco's kitchen, we saw how Steve ascended with a craft heel in the pocket myself and Franco put our right hand in. Anyway, if i go back i'll use a heel to make it more static.
Finally, with mist rolling in, we decided to leave Franco's house at 7pm to go to Round Crag. My thoughts here were to dig a trench allowing the free drainage of the boggy arete to the north of the buttress and also show Franco, 'Heel of Approval'.
Heel of Approval - E4 6b - Round Crag


 We did both these things, but the damp, misty conditions put Franco off an ascent of 'Heel...' and we then dug a rather belting drainage channel. All in all, a very mixed and useful day out on the Moors!

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