Saturday, 13 August 2011

Bit more bouldering... (V11 video)

An odd day. We both felt weak and a bit tired after yesterdays quite 'full on' day, which involved digging ditches, Font7b+ bouldering and some route cleaning, not to mention the walk ins.

Anyhow, we opted for the quickly drying Wainstones as the light rain fell and we opted for just boulder mats. Franco had talked of 'being able to do' Steve McClure's V11/Font 8a heinous problem 'The Finger'. The problem involves a small sidepull and a mono which is an old bolt hole.

I looked at the problem and thought it would be very risky for an 12st lump to start yarding on singular digits while they are in very 'tweaky'pockets or in this case, bolt hole. After a bit of warming up and 2 or 3 'practice' runs, Franco suddenly nailed the top hold and began his oddly familiar dance of victory with obligatory rockshoe throwing.

Not a bad effort on what was, until recently, the very hardest boulder problem on the Moors, but i do believe some of the recent work at Oak Crag may have changed this?

A tad disgruntled that my physique and psyche didn't allow me to do more than just hold position on the mono and sidepull, so i seeked out Jas Wood's 'Fade To Grey' - Font 7a* a thuggy sideways boulder problem situation under the omonous Garfit Buttress. After a 1st go to check the sequence and figure the thuggy, groping top out, it went second go and i did it again for good measure. Very nice.

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