Thursday, 18 August 2011

Honey Arete - Round Crag

No silly videos or action shots today, after a dodgey morning of car related troubles and such, we eventually got ourselves to Round Crag. I was not stoked for Danby today and i was looking forward to trying 'Honey Arete', which meant hoping that our drainage work had been successful.

The ground below, usually perma-boggy was a beautiful dampish, sort of solid, but now without worry of getting muddy and wet. What an improvement!

We observed the tall, elegant arete and commented on the two obvious cruxs, one past the pocket at 3metres and then the top section which looks thin. I was psyched out by this and having previously Shunted the starting moves with Steve Ramsden didn't really mind a quick rap down to clean holds and then shunt back up to check how it climbed, Franco was off looking at Scut de Scun Ai.

We both elected that a 'fielder' below was a much better option than photos on this occasion and with the confidence of a human impact reduction, Franco then, similarly to 'Vampiric Obsession', onsighted the climbing following my cleaned holds and i quickly did similar with the knowledge of my own pre-inspection.

Franco at the top of Honey Arete
The arete is graded E5 6b*** and i would fully agree with the quality when it is clean. Hopefully a few more ascent over the next year or so may keep the holds lichen free... The grade is a funny one, it's extremely bold but the landing is flat. The actual 6b crux may be ok to jump off from, but i wouldn't like to slip. I would regard the top, thin smeary section to be very serious. Good effort to Franco for onsighting it!

Myself, chuffed even if it was a headpoint

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