Sticky Damp

3 days of horrendous north east weather coinciding with the return of Franco from Uni, meant that climbing looked rather limited before my departure to NW highlands for Geology fieldwork. However, a day at Newton Aycliffe wall for a bit of bouldering and then tradding up the scene with some runout, traversy lines and taking group clipping falls meant that a good day was had by all! Well, Franco, Pete Simpson, Rebex and I all thoroughly enjoyed it anyway!

My last chance to climb was Thursday evening, amazingly it had sort of dried up a bit in the brief afternoon without rain and Franco rang to ask if i was up for a crag. I decided it would probably only be a look, but took ropes, gear and stakes and sledge hammer (all usual FAing stuff) to the crag.
Pleasantly suprised by the dryness, althought it was quite chilly we quickly made a top belay out of stakes and then started to play around on the already horrendously scarred, cleaned holds.
Starts with a big pop/reach to a slopey pocket from an undercut which i think will be pretty morpho. Then from there a hard move up and left to either sidepulls of a pocket, then using mono pockets for each hand a high foot into slopey dish/pocket and a great move up at left to gain the blind flake. Futher contortions reach the top.

Good climbing, F7cish very little in the way of placeable gear as well, were into skyhook and micro, wired tricam territory if we can figure out how to place them on lead... Cool moves with a pop to a dish pocket, sidepulling up a cool blunt flake and beaut deep finger pockets, leading to a balancy morpho finish. Bon.

'stoked'

Video's non removed.

Lakes, 2 1/2 days.

Wednesday, 80's Pete and I travelled to the Lakes in search of classics in the HVS to E2 range. We decided that the often talked about Sergeant Crag Slabs was probably the best option, seeing as we'd never climbed there is easy to get to and had plenty to go at.
We arrived to a pretty full crag with two parties already there. In a rather slow day, we ticked Terminator 2 (HVS***) and Lakeland Cragsman (HVS***). I climbed the classic slabby (E2 5b***) Aphasia, with Pete also climbing the pleasant Quicksilver (E1**). Aphasia was interesting as it was much more sustained and far better protected than i thought it would have been, i ran out of QD's by the crack and sacrificed cams and screwgates but ultmately just ran it out a bit!
Pete was at work at 6am the following day so we rushed off to the car, i'd hoped to have gotten enough time to climb Bleak Howe Buttress (E2 5c***) but it wasn't to be.

The following day, when Pete finished work at 2pm, we journied BACK to the lakes with an evenings cragging in mind. I decided that Hodge Close would be ideal and we quickly despatched the classic 'Behind The Lines' (HVS***), this being Pete's first Slate climb. I told him that he'd get on well with the climbing as he's an intelligent climber and places his feet well. I then decided to sack off trying Limited Edition (E4 6a***) to do the reputedly very good Big Dipper/Mirrormere (E2 5b***).
I asked Pete to climb the first pitch up a strenuous crack and then lovely rampline, which is E1 5b on it's own. This line takes a cool left to right of the buttress, with a belay on bolts. The second pitch which is E2 5b, tiptoes from the belay leftwards for 30 metres to an arete, via two bolts.
Great piece of climbing, on both pitches a definite classic.
After Hodge, we returned to the Hut at Patterdale where we met Chris and Heather Woodal, which is always nice, they told us about their week in the lakes in the good weather - jealous.

The forecast was potentially hot with thunder showers, but even so i decided a trip up to the esoteric gem of Langdale, Neckband Crag, was the best bet. I had half considered Goat Crag, Borrowdale, but decided to hit Neckband as it was likely to be in condition given the recent very dry conditions.
It was in condition and im exceptionally glad we went. Pete warmed up on the distinctly awkward classic HVS corner crack, Mithrandir. Great climbing but definitely awkward for the grade. This was the trend of the day.
I was going to get on Gillette Direct (E2 5c***) but Pete declared an interest, so i got on the *** variation to an awkward E3 6a. This route, Tracheotomy(E2 5c***) misses out the very awkward looking overhanging finger crack, that i looked at but couldnt fit fingers in. However, Tracheotomy, turned out to be more than worthwhile.
Starting as for Gillette Direct, it pulls out right and follows the upper cracks of the E3, with some great thin locks and padding and brilliant gear. It was all very sustained and ultimately amazing, worth *** at any crag in both our opinions.
Pete then climbed the well thought of Gillette Direct (E2), which again provided thought provoking, intense climbing for the whole 35metres.
I finished off with Gandalf (E2 5c**) which looked inaccessible with the traverse to its undercut base being totally mossy. However, the holds were clean in the main and i climbed this again, with interest. Not as good climbing as the previous two routes (no bad thing!) but probably more worthy of ** than many routes!
Pete then finished with what has to be one of my favourite climbs yet. The E1 5a***, Razor crack, tackes an obvious splitter through 4 overlaps. He climbed it steadily enough but was tired. I go on the second and was blownaway. Juggy climbing, with perfect gear lead to a cool rock onto a jug and then, brilliantly, a little offwidth section. I decided i may as well offwidth climb it with a fist and hand jam pull into the niece and then an ankle/leg lock hands off rest and lean back. Brilliant.
Finishing up the final overlaps via some quality locking and more perfect gear!
E1 5b for my money perfectly sustained 5a climbing with a 5b crux and perfect perfect gear. Go and do them all, now!
The left side of the crag is clean, despite the large black mossy streak, however the righthand side appears to have been forgotton for longer. I fancied the E3 there, but the crack systems were very much vegetated and regrettably, i'm not the one to clean them.
Wandered back to the car in the baking sun (having been almost chilly in the northshade of the crag) and returned to the moors via some convection rainfall (showing it was a good couple of warm days!) content with money well spent!

Tahu Ratum - British Expedition

This summer, sees an attempt at the as yet unclimbed NW ridge of the stunning Granite peak of the Tahu Ratum, Pakistani Karakorum.
Luke Hunt, Tom Ripley, Hamish Dunn and Holly Mumford of various universities in the UK are heading out 23rd of July to hopefully bag this most impressive FA.

The following blog, is a good in depth piece written by the team:
Tahu Ratum - Blog

Awesome stuff!

Windmore End

The weather on't moors was pretty shit. I'd been unable to find a partner and the west of the country was seeing decent weather. All in all, i had two choices go to the Lakes soloing or stay at home and train? (not likely)

In the end, i decided to sort of cut it half way. I didn't really want to go to the lakes and solo classic HS's or VS's, i just wasn't in that sort of mood. I fancied a day soloing at a 10metre crag - but didn't really fancy going all the way to the Lakes for that, at say Black Crag, Wrynose.

In the end, my thoughts drifted back to an email i had received a few weeks back from the Cleveland MC. It was a meet reminder for a sunday meet at Windmore End, above Brough. I had considered going, as it is reputed to be a lovely soloing crag made up fo pretty solid, nicely weathered limestone.
I had the routes list as part of the email and there were quite literally 100's of routes from Diff to E3. I decided it was a much better option than soloing say 'Fool's Paradise' or 'Eliminate A'.

Departing the mist and rain of the moors, i was greeted by sun and warmth at Windmore. The drive over was busy with holiday makers heading to the lakes and horse's heading to Appleby. I was quite happy about exiting the A66 early, actually.

The crag itself barely exceeds 8-10metres and is composed of beautiful limestone, it was somewhere i'd spotted as being 'close to the moors for sussing out limestone' when i was younger and had only experienced Grit and Sandstone.

Long story short, the crag in my eyes was great. Great views, great rock and all on good holds. The routes never have horrendous slopers or thin slippy footholds or anything 'cruxy' like that, they just seem to be good moves between good holds. Either jugs, or good finger jams or bomber crimps. It really was bliss.
The grading was soft too i think, unless i was going well. A few of the E3's i soloed said 'Very Bold', which i found were bold but so they should be for a 8m E3 5c...
Perhaps it's just coming off the back of the last 6 months on the Yorkshire Shit(grit)stone? Either way, soft grades or just they suited my stile of being slightly bold without trick moves, it's the enjoyment that counts and 5 E3's 4 of which were Onsight all made up of good moves is a good day out for me! :-)

Well worth the effort if you live nearish and probably worth a detour on the way to the Lakes from the North East, if you enjoy 8metre, Soloing of a variety of grades. The VS's and HVS's that i soloed, mainly on the 'Far Right' were excellent too.

Happy.

Rain

After having to go to Leeds, on the nicest day of the week, for a meeting about the forthcoming fieldtrip, rather expectedly the weather crapped out on the saturday.
I decided to hit the old training patch of Ravenswick, with it's slightly overhanging walls of limestone it's the Stoney, of the Moors.

Arriving in the heavyish rain i wasn't too hopeful, but was pleasantly suprised to see the walls dry and not seepy.
Over the next 3 hours i traversed the usual traverses on black wall. Gutter Crack to Flake Crack traverse (with jump finish) being the best, but i did the variants too with bummelzug start and also Marooned (with easy beta) up then managed the 'hard' finish to the traverse.

Gutter Crack to Flake Crack Traverse from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.

This goes by traving right on the crimps then gaining a much smaller crimp, below the pinch hold. From here you much pop to the good pocket with your left. This constitutes the crux and is hard and very fluffable. I didn't manage the V7 full traverse utlising this finish.
I ended by traversing whitewall (v2 5b) along the bottom break, having a leg bar rest for 20 seconds then traversing back slightly higher. Good little session considering the weather.

Marooned - Ravenswick from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.

P.S the weather was 'mid heavy rain' you got wet if you stayed in it. What i did notice was that if you fixed lower-offs, you'd get away with climbing the routes in the conditions and the bouldering is good. Worth bearing in mind.
There are many 'easy' problems possible all along the wall.

Nesting Shoes

From now on, don't bother repairing or resoling your old, tired winter cragging shoes, just open them out, stick them somewhere sheltered say a garage or shed with plenty of access from the outside world and let them become homes for birds...

Returning from Uni, i went into the shed where my training wall is. Intent on actually using it i set about making some routes/problems and then went to get my shoes, that i'd left in the garage over the winter.

The Swallows, that reside in our garage every spring were happily buzzing around the roof space crapping at will. I was quite shocked to find my shoes had become the early attempts at a home, unfortunately for the poor Wren or whatever, i decided i wanted my shoes back.

So, if you have any old shoes - lop 'em in a shed and see what happens.

Philleas Fog

Steve Ramsden, the Moors raider from Hull found a very good looking boulder problem at Camp Hill, Philleas Fog Font 7a*.
My final exam at Leeds Uni, Maths, was over and unable to find a climbing partner in Leeds i quickly made my way back to the Moors and after a meal with mum at a garden centre, i made my way with the dog to Philleas Fog.
The rock looked good and was still chalked from Steve's ascent. I quickly jumped on it, this time unfortunately without videos!
I didn't make much progess on my 'flash' attempt. I've seen his video and it made the start look easy and the top look hard but doable. I found the start quite a shock, but made it to the lunge for a good hold before struggling to get my feet up and falling off.
Second go was much better, i gained the crimp on the right which i found good until i started to pull on it, when i seemed to slip out of the blighter.
Over time, about 20 minutes i eventually (without using a heel on the big sidepull) gained the final flake/crimp on the left. Here Steve drops his right knee on a rightward facing hold and slaps the top. I tried and failed, miserably.
I gave up on the dropknee, and just placed a foot against the rightfacing hold and jumped for the top. The holds were ok, but the friction certainly wasn't brilliant. It was about 10 degrees and no wind, i was running out of chalk.
15 or 20 goes (from standing), two of which i held the top before popping, i eventually nailed the 'good' bit and made sure i didn't come off! This time from sitting, i had got the bottom of the little left flake/crimp where i could get a smaller but more positive contact.
Very Very Very happy, with this ascent. Mainly as it's brilliant climbing but also because i'd come from Leeds to do it!
Felt very much harder than Waylander, (Font 6c+), so if Philleas is Font 7a, then Waylander must be easier.
I've now repeated two of Steve's Font 7a's and found them both tricky but eventually got them. I think this is my achieveable bouldering grade, i've done a harder one mover of his, (For Leichenstein) but i did it differently.
Food for thought anyway, but i fancy the trad or sport :-)

Philleas Fogg @ Camp Hill from Ram Man on Vimeo.