Thursday, 10 June 2010

Sticky Damp

3 days of horrendous north east weather coinciding with the return of Franco from Uni, meant that climbing looked rather limited before my departure to NW highlands for Geology fieldwork. However, a day at Newton Aycliffe wall for a bit of bouldering and then tradding up the scene with some runout, traversy lines and taking group clipping falls meant that a good day was had by all! Well, Franco, Pete Simpson, Rebex and I all thoroughly enjoyed it anyway!

My last chance to climb was Thursday evening, amazingly it had sort of dried up a bit in the brief afternoon without rain and Franco rang to ask if i was up for a crag. I decided it would probably only be a look, but took ropes, gear and stakes and sledge hammer (all usual FAing stuff) to the crag.
Pleasantly suprised by the dryness, althought it was quite chilly we quickly made a top belay out of stakes and then started to play around on the already horrendously scarred, cleaned holds.
Starts with a big pop/reach to a slopey pocket from an undercut which i think will be pretty morpho. Then from there a hard move up and left to either sidepulls of a pocket, then using mono pockets for each hand a high foot into slopey dish/pocket and a great move up at left to gain the blind flake. Futher contortions reach the top.

Good climbing, F7cish very little in the way of placeable gear as well, were into skyhook and micro, wired tricam territory if we can figure out how to place them on lead... Cool moves with a pop to a dish pocket, sidepulling up a cool blunt flake and beaut deep finger pockets, leading to a balancy morpho finish. Bon.


Video's non removed.

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