tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-60748053515525534722024-02-19T09:23:42.952+00:00Dave WarburtonDave Warburtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12351066523275125737noreply@blogger.comBlogger229125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6074805351552553472.post-21618546420110008892016-10-15T20:51:00.000+01:002016-10-16T09:27:27.613+01:00Exploring <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Popped back to a crag I'd been saving for a 'dry week followed by cool temperatures'. It arrived on Saturday which was fortuitous, though it was a really soggy Saturday. A horrid heavy dew. I still managed to get some folks keen and we lugged the pads in. I didn't think it would go to be honest, Sam and I kept falling off the last move, its a reachy little 6c+/7a number, but it went with the last effort before the toys were thrown out the pram.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" mozallowfullscreen="" src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/187469624" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="640"></iframe> <a href="https://vimeo.com/187469624">A heavy dew cannot be-sodden the soul</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/user3774974">Dave Warburton</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</div>
Dave Warburtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12351066523275125737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6074805351552553472.post-37184862873571178162016-10-15T20:42:00.000+01:002016-10-16T19:24:07.210+01:00Nemesis'<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Short and sweet this one... I've had a few 'semi-nemesis' over the years, mostly things i've looked at and not got on or things i've been on and not finished. This year saw the slaying of a few of these routes.<br />
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1. Metal Guru 7c at Kilnsey. It took a session to work it and a second to come back to tick it off. Tricky pocketty crux and a route i'd tried in the past. Glad to do it, an old school number and Fawcett route. Great stuff.<br />
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2. Stratagem E4/5 6b, Ravenscar .... SHOULD HAVE FLASHED THIS! Fell out of a jam at the top while chalking up. Went second go ground up. Many many years of ignoring its existence as i thought i'd get shut down...<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/gB8SDszEFVo" width="560"></iframe><br />
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3. Terrorist E4 5c, Wainstones. I belayed Franco on this years ago and never fancied it. Though it always narked me as its a proud little line on the Sphinx. I want to climb it all! Anyway, one way too hot, greasy day I just about managed to get up this line with Francs belaying. I was wearing newly resoled shoes with zero sensitivity, the rock was iron-rich and very hot, and the crimps were laced with green, damp lichen. It was a close run thing - fear inducing.<br />
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4. Mutton Dagger E3 5c, Giggleswick South. I've driven past this crag lots of times and never bothered dropping in. Anyway, a quick tick off of this and 'Fine Speeding' E5 6a climbed pretty much all the ground I fancied. Didn't do the layback on Broad Sword but one to go back for.<br />
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5. Black Knight E6 6c, Wainstones. Franco has always been psyched to do this sans pegs. Probably hasn't seen a second ascent, I was less impressed with the route really. How wrong I was. A great sequence was found on a top rope and a couple of tri cams were pushed into the peg scars, and thus, a brilliant, brilliant route it is. Magic.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" mozallowfullscreen="" src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/187484134" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="640"></iframe><br />
<a href="https://vimeo.com/187484134">Black Knight</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/user3774974">Dave Warburton</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
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6. Powerplay E5 6b, Yew Cogur. Another crag i've not got around to getting to and a route i've thought "that sounds good". Too many years forgetting and remembering about it. Anyway, a birthday route this year with Matt F and also boshed the classic 7b Cruising for a Bruising. Stupendous rock.<br />
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7. Ch-Ching E6/7 6c, Ravenscar. Franco did this a few years ago and I fell off and slashed my back on the boulder. Never wanted to go back... But I never forgot about it and I was feeling strong and bold so thought it was worth a re-match. It's a brilliant super highball Font 7a but the E6 6c grade is warrented I think? Brilliant pad party route.<br />
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8. Wellington Crack E4 5c, Ilkley. I really have avoided this route. But this was the year to put aside the egotistical fears and just get on it. It's full of large holds and jams, more gear than you can shake a stick at. I did get pumped and I thought i was off at two points when I was on shit feet in my soft anasazi's as i needed a bit of an edge. Great stuff, worthy classic.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" mozallowfullscreen="" src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/174400969" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="640"></iframe> <a href="https://vimeo.com/174400969">Randall's Cringle Crag Classic</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/user3774974">Dave Warburton</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</div>
Dave Warburtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12351066523275125737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6074805351552553472.post-77078177467393699762016-10-15T20:13:00.000+01:002016-10-15T20:15:16.642+01:00Smuggler's and Maidens<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The Moors....<br />
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Back to the Moors for a bit of new routing and old enemies. It started with a couple of new routes at Smuggler's Terrace with Katie, and a re-acquaintance with Maidens' Bluff. Katie and I popped in for an afternoon and ticked off the big groove which has been ignored for years. It took me a day and a half of cleaning mind you, but Katie dispatched the VS 4c quickly and I added the E2 5c up the arete and wall to the right. Good additions yet again.<br />
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As for Maiden's, the gap between Archaeopteryx and Futuristic has always been 'worth a look'. I abbed and brushed the line and found some pockets and edges. The typical Maidens cleaning work began, tooth brushing the holds and features. Some really don't inspire me confidence and others begin to take shape and 'clean up'. Both becoming less sandy and solid. It took a few sessions to work out the sequence and a bit of supergluing to stop the holds from shedding too much. But all in all, its another great highball, on good holds for the wall. The line is just a tad steeper than the walls to the left or right. It went at a similar grade to the rest of the routes to the left, probably E6 6b/c. Not sure on a name, dubbed it Jihad It Coming for the time being.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" mozallowfullscreen="" src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/176336669" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="640"></iframe><br />
<a href="https://vimeo.com/176336669">00003</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/user2637200">Franco Cookson</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</div>
Dave Warburtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12351066523275125737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6074805351552553472.post-33861345665641935242016-10-15T20:05:00.001+01:002016-10-16T19:23:08.233+01:00Catching up on 2016 Part 1<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
2016 has seen a fair bit of climbing and saw the ticking of a few classics and a few FAs. It was a nice change from my Moors-centric years previous and it was brilliant to finally get on a few 'wish list' routes.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" mozallowfullscreen="" src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/164070208" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="640"></iframe><br />
<a href="https://vimeo.com/164070208">Chalking >= Climbing</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/user3774974">Dave Warburton</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
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The spring saw ascents of grit routes Calvary (E4 6a) and Psycho (E5 6b) at Stanage and Caley. Two routes i'd thought about doing but never really bothered with. However, there's only so much esoterica you can do before you need to do the routes everyone else does. It's weird. They're great routes, but i've certainly done plenty of forgotten, or unfashionable routes and boulder problems which are equally as good. Also ticked a few pleasant routes like Carnage (E2 5b) and the first pitch of Mulatto Wall (E3 5c) at Malham.<br />
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During this time Katie also did her first real headpoint, Ephedrine E4 6a at Caley. A pleasant route on pockets and smears. A just about paddable landing and no reachy or hard moves really. Katie liked the moves and as a result was happy to take the risk. Only a few TR's were required before she got her first taste of the subtle mix of danger and difficulty. More to come i'm sure!<br />
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Katie and I also had a great three days in North Wales, with some Holyhead, Rhoscolyn, Gogarth and Ogwen routes. The best being Dream of White Horses (HVS 4c) which we inevitably did wrong, as its a classic. I enjoyed it, it was probably about E2 5b whatever we did, but a bit of a shame we got it wrong. Nice being the only people in Wen Zawn though on a golden sunset evening. I also got on Warpath E5 6a down in Rhoscolyn. It was swelteringly hot, rank, but I was pretty psyched and it went without much issue. Scary abseil to get the gear mind you!<br />
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Tumble E4 6a. A route I have wanted to do for years. I'd pulled onto the start years ago and it was damp so i retreated. This time around it was a cruise, a climb I seriously enjoyed. Very glad it was wet a few years ago, as i doubt i'd have done it back then. Brilliant line, sustained and one of the few routes that truly lived up to its expectation, to be honest, it probably surpassed it. Also did Nimrod E1 5c while we were up there. A classic E1 of the Lakes which I think it certainly deserves. Tricky customer?<br />
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So a year of ticking classic routes and not really grade chasing, a pleasant change...<br />
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Dave Warburtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12351066523275125737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6074805351552553472.post-73125367447048540472016-04-15T16:18:00.000+01:002016-08-19T15:12:38.733+01:00A super highball<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
So, Franco climbed the big, obvious scoop on the west face of Barry. It had been a 'project' for many years, since we'd first visited the crag. However it was only recently that attempts were made to climb the line. There was interest as well from outside the area, notably from Tom Randall.<br />
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Franco had a few sessions on it over the spring but nothing like his usual time invested in cleaning, and refining sequences. He declared it <i>might</i> go. I happened to be home that weekend and fortuitously so did Luke Hunt. The perfect plan.<br />
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So Franco, Anna, Si Litchfield and I packed two cars with as many pads as was possible and headed to Stoupe Brow to meet Luke. Franco practiced while the rest of us warmed up on the bouldering; Piton Crack (6c***) and the 2nd and 3rd ascent of the newly established Chuckie Egg (7B**) were the notable ascents. The latter was a line i'd thought 'needed doing' but having Steve Ramsden to the FA first meant we could fully enjoy the ground up knowing it was possible. It's fairly high, but the landing is flat. Perfecto! The highballing on the Moors really is superb.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shouldery moves on Chuckie Egg 7B**</td></tr>
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Franco then declared himself ready. We popped the pads under the scoop and set up several cameras. He was off. The easy start leads to what appears to be the crux, a rank looking mono and some extendable arms.... and legs (it turns out). He was up to the shield in but a moment or two. Unsure where he'd land given a slip i grabbed a pad ready to move it quickly if required. He made a large reach for a sloper, puffed out a slight squeak and boshed the top. Done. Complete. H8 7a apparently something in the order of 7C/8A. The climbing looks great and maybe not impossibly morpho?<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Out of the Shadows. MYXOMOP H8 7a ***</td></tr>
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After 5 or 10 minutes standing around looking at the line and comparing our version of events, Luke left and the remaining four of us head back for a pie and pint via a stop off at the Mallyon prows (Grey Earths Scar).<br />
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The big prow has been a project of mine for a while, though i've actually only tried it on Christmas eve 2014. I 'found' the crag around that time and over the Christmas period cleaned and climbed a few bits and bobs. Some excellent 7A's of thereabouts plus a pleasant 6A+ and a bold 6C/E5 6b. I climb is half way between being a standard boulder problem and being a highball. It feels higher than it actually is I think. I had dug the landing out flat and cleaned it. I'd also checked if my span was large enough to link crimp to the sloping top - it was.<br />
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Armed with the pads from Franco's ascent of Barry, and armed with a team of photographers. I set about giving it a go. Several attempts saw me providing adequate reach, though it was poorly controlled. I felt rushed, I was the only person trying the line and I wanted to get it done. I told Franco to get his shoes on. We were both keenly aware that if he did, he'd do it. He's a fair bit stronger than I, plus his fingers will fit the incut but narrow crimp a bit better and he has a couple of inch or two in height and arm span. Sure enough, it took him just three goes to dispatch the line via a traverse in from the left along the break. Up to this point I had been trying it from standing up the arete - the standing start to Pussy Riot which is about 6B. I decided to traverse in - as it doesn't really decrease the difficulty but does allow you to chalk up a tad easier. <br />
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I still failed.<br />
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Si Litchfield inquired about the offwidth crack just left. "Unclimbed" was the reply from Franco and I. "Well that's an obvious line, i'll do it!". He did. Eventually. The quick solo turned into something of a minor struggle with good jamming leading to a wide, offwidth and shelving finish. Franco and I had no idea what was happening above, but Si eventually climbed the line. Hilarious.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Last of the Moorhicans 7B/7B+ (?)</td></tr>
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I wanted one more crack at the wall so i popped my shoes back on, traversed the break and chalked. An unbalanced left hand movement gains the incut crimp which felt good. Right up and bosh. Easy. Alas, I needed a rest! I was glad to get it done, even if the FA had been foolishly gifted away. The sit start might add something - provided you can't rest under the roof(?) so i might give that a go in the future.<br />
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I wasn't sure about the grade. In 2014 it felt nails, but the crimp wasn't clean, nor the top. On Sunday it felt doable every time but still took a fair few attempts to latch it - though dynamism, however small is not my thing at all! It is certainly very basic, indeed it is a one mover. We settled on 7b/7b+ as it felt harder than Chuckie Egg earlier in the day - though that is a much longer, sustained problem so not a great comparison. I also feel like if the move was off the deck it would be piss! Can't fault the bloc or the location though. <br />
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So a good day out. Witness to a great FA, a repeat of another excellent highball at Stoupe and a new addition to the gem that is Mallyon. All with good company. Can't beat that. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More pads required please</td></tr>
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Dave Warburtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12351066523275125737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6074805351552553472.post-77052797631738840392016-04-08T21:36:00.000+01:002016-04-08T21:36:39.547+01:00The Moors List<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Over the past couple of days we have created a fairly comprehensive list of North York Moors climbs from E3 to H10 plus all the projects we're aware of. We're not quite finished yet, but its probably about 90% complete. Photos and videos to be uploaded to it in time. We might develop a bouldering one too, in time.<br /><br /><a href="http://nymoorslist.wikifoundry.com/">http://nymoorslist.wikifoundry.com/</a><br /><div>
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Dave Warburtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12351066523275125737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6074805351552553472.post-17869455965589079662016-03-14T22:05:00.000+00:002016-04-01T22:14:15.292+01:00Early year success - Strapadictomy and Indoor Fisherman at Froggatt<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
It's been a very hit and miss start to the year, though recently the weather has improved. I am a tad annoyed I didn't manage to get out on many cold, crisp winter days. There were a few for sure, but alas work usually got in the way. I managed to get one such day, which provided me an excellent haul at Whitehouses. I'd never been before, it didn't really look my style and I thought everything there would need to sessioned. So, I was as surprised as anyone when I arrived back from my first visit with a fairly decent haul... Fat Punters' Roof (6c) flash, Fit Punters' Roof (7a+) 3rd go, Rageh Omaah (7a) flash, Bush Bully (7b) 4th go, Conehead (7b) onsight, Under Rumsfeld (7b+) 5 or 6 goes, Whitefinger (7c) 5th go. I also made good progress with Conehead Sit (7c) and Kenny Boy Lay (7c). Great visit... and shows what I can climb in good conditions!<br />
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Funnily enough, for the next two weeks my fingers were damaged - too much pulling I think. The skin wasn't too bad but they were so painful I think they must have been tissue damage. I still managed a few taped up ascents at Carrock Fell and Kentmere, with Ghetto Style (7b), Negative Reality Inversion (7a) and the hard to grade Middle Earth... (6c to 7b+) depending on what sequence apparently. Felt about 6c+ to me once i had sorted my feet. Katie also managed to break the font 6a 'barrier' - more mental than physical I think with a change of scene to the Lakes.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Katie on a Carrock classic 6a</td></tr>
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I was getting a touch bored of sub-standard conditions bouldering however, so a slightly warmer weekend allowed a spot of trad climbing. A psyched team of Will, Huw, Karl and I decided to pop to the Peak. Strapadictomy and Indoor Fisherman were touted as suitable targets for ground up ascents. With the team mostly consisting of players interested in safety-first, me with a trip to Mallorca in just a few days and Karl keen for owt, these two classics seemed ideal.<br />
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Will made the first moves on Indoor Fisherman, discovering that the boulder problem start was a poor warm up and tricky. He stepped back, so I had a bash. Carefully flashing the start I placed some cams (a bit rusty after my winter without doing so) I then committed to the vertical crack above. Ping - I was off and down by the boulder problem start again. I'm not sure why I pinged off, I blamed conditions and a lack of warm up. Quickly jumping on again I made better progress before finding the slopey, in-the-sun top out a little thought provoking. Karl followed my lead and ran up the line clipping the runners on the way (after a false start on the boulder problem). Will and Huw elected to second the line following both our admission that the line was a bit pumpy towards the top and required a little more than the Depot or Shipley Glen bouldering circuit fitness....<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Indoor Fisherman E4 6a ***</td></tr>
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I wandered off to watch Katie show Tody's Wall who's boss. Katie had previously successfully downclimbed the route after struggling to pull through the overlap. This time there was no such issues after a good winter of bouldering. I predict a few E1's this year from Katie.<br />
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Pleased with that display, I discovered the team had got started with Strapadictomy. Will had been up and placed a couple of cams in the crack of Strapiombante. I said i'd go up and try to place the wire in the flake. I guessed at size 7, climbed the lower arete and realised its a blind placement. With a hilarious bit of direction from the ground team "up a bit, up a bit, bit more... up.." and a struggle to hold myself in I wiggled in a good nut "Yeahhh! Sinker!". I dropped back to teh break and rested on jams. I'm not sure why I didn't downclimb to the ground. I decided to just give it a bash. Heel-toe, press into the flake and then match. Juggy! I was surprised. Good feet. Oh, ok, this seems a bit too straight forward. Feet smeared still feel ok with enough time to chalk. Reach to sloper... not great in the sunshine but holdable as a pinch. Cam toe in the crack. I heard Karl shouting "go on Dave the break is best on the left!". I ignored this 'beta'. Not because I knew any different but because I was climbing happily without thinking very much and continued up the arete. I was worried my feet would ping, as my fingers were greasy, but, successfully I continued to the top. Then laughed at Karl at his woeful beta.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Will committing to the flake on Strapadictomy E5 6b ***</td></tr>
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The whole team cemented the day as one to remember. Will boshed the route third go, with Karl and Huw both succeeding after both initially struggling to gain the crack. All very impressive after such a struggle at the start.<br />
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A great first trad day of the year for me and a route I never thought i'd flash, let alone actually bother to get on.... It's easy to say "another day when I'm.... <insert applicable=""> fitter, stronger, better conditions, done a few more routes, done a bit more bouldering etc etc"</insert><br />
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Dave Warburtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12351066523275125737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6074805351552553472.post-54280388950973824092015-12-07T21:55:00.004+00:002015-12-07T22:08:58.477+00:002015 - a year without blogging<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I haven't blogged this year. Mainly due to the fact I haven't done a lot that I figured was worth blogging about. After a bit of headpointing to get going, I've been mainly climbing for myself - onsight and as i'm a poor onsighter this doesn't really stand out from the crowd... No significant Moor's FA's this time around and with maybe only a couple of noteworthy repeats.<br />
However, I'm going to start blogging again I think. I've always tried to broadcast what i'm up to - as I know folks like to see what other people are up to and I usually get a video or two of interesting routes in the North of England. I like to get inspired by what others do, so this is giving back to the same community.<br />
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I'll attack the year chronologically which started with a Spring visit to Eavestone to have a 'look' at what was there and if there were any obvious gaps. I think there are. I filled one with a direct start to Dragonslayer (E5 6a **) which ramps the tech grade up to 6c, or Font 7a. The route doesn't really need a direct start, indeed it is far more sustained and 'traddy' to climb it in from the left - however the direct start was just asking to be climbed and fortunately there is an obvious jug from which to jump off, or decide to carry on. I headpoint soloed it in terms of style.<br />
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<a href="https://www.facebook.com/david.warburton.946/videos/vb.878555388/10155560541645389/?type=3&theater">https://www.facebook.com/david.warburton.946/videos/vb.878555388/10155560541645389/?type=3&theater</a> - Dragonslayer Direct boulder problem<br />
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Another quick headpoint was Mark Rankines addition to Danby Crag, back home on the Moors. Repeating a route (or highball) at Danby, put up by someone not from the Moors, was a strange and wierd experience. The enticing slab that Matt and Sam had originally cleaned but subsequently never got around to climbing was bone dry in the early summer and went at E5 6c/Font 7a+ **. Hopefully it retains some sort of condition as it adds to the plethora of perfect boulder problems, highballs and routes at Danby which would be happy anywhere.<br />
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I've climbed a lot with a new partner this year. Katie. This has seen some great trips to crags and areas i'd wanted to get to but not bothered with. The highlight was a 3 day trip north of the border to Reiff, Sheigra and the Old Man of Stoer. We travelled up to the Lochinver Climbing Festival - which was a great little festival which i'm hopeful will grow year on year. Katie giving a talk about geology, I was there to share the driving and do some climbing. I'd always fancied Reiff and Sheigra. They look incredible. 3 days was just enough to get a few routes in, which probably all end up in my top 20 routes i've done. Crack of Desire (True Finish) E4 6a ***, Swirls E4 6a *** and the Old Man of Stoer VS 5a will all survive in my memory for a long time yet, for different reasons. CoD was totally wet, I thought it was just a bit of coastal ming at the start but it just kept going and I just kept fighting and somehow topped out.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stoer</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Katie the swimmer!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A proper Scottish day out</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A great place to practice your first Tyrolean...</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crack of Desire</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxGF3bBqdQ5mRHNaTH1WjYOMyqzR1ZD1fyeJF3hpDkA7xVimzqdBbfgyYxsB2aJl86M-2_XQi1G_GWM6x8vhyphenhyphenO0Sr429AgBTIQqOrsdmtnBqhyphenhyphenznicPnjJ_Rr3AwZ3NfnPRpDxMsicEoNR/s1600/P1010597.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxGF3bBqdQ5mRHNaTH1WjYOMyqzR1ZD1fyeJF3hpDkA7xVimzqdBbfgyYxsB2aJl86M-2_XQi1G_GWM6x8vhyphenhyphenO0Sr429AgBTIQqOrsdmtnBqhyphenhyphenznicPnjJ_Rr3AwZ3NfnPRpDxMsicEoNR/s320/P1010597.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Swirl</td></tr>
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<span style="text-align: left;"><br />Katie also took me to her stomping ground in Lancashire. Again, i'd always fancied nipping across to Wilton/Anglezarke etc etc but never got the psyche or partners. A day ticking off the classics at Wilton was a highlight for me, The Swine E3 6a**, Wilton Wall E3 5c *** and Max E3 5c ** was enough to leave me wanting to get back for more - with a better guide which actually has some of the starred 'mid E grade' lines which looked very good. I'm also pretty interested in giving Pigs on the Wing E5 6b *** a bosh as it looked 'do-able' ground up to me and is meant to be a good one.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wilton Wall</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXPtW1bYhaVSECDapoaAL9_Y-s6FsHc9twVZdWcszuU-csK2m4LBVb0WQMlv7PDm7cBknBUmkeLDzsaIKeWv7b66cxiEyc6tUpaKZ8p5B-DnOdFuzrydJF4l1UHMvQDN5QR6y1Ik-9355t/s1600/P1010676.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXPtW1bYhaVSECDapoaAL9_Y-s6FsHc9twVZdWcszuU-csK2m4LBVb0WQMlv7PDm7cBknBUmkeLDzsaIKeWv7b66cxiEyc6tUpaKZ8p5B-DnOdFuzrydJF4l1UHMvQDN5QR6y1Ik-9355t/s320/P1010676.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Swine</td></tr>
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Back to the Yorkshire Scene. A summer headpoint ascent of Sutty's E6 * Stonequest at Chevin and a 're-discovery' of an arete also at Chevin were both notable. I say rediscovery, apparently its been climbed before but I'm somewhat mystified as the climbing on both sides of the arete is good - well worth inclusion in a guidebook and much better than some of the shite that makes its way into them - and also the fact the top had a soil, rock and grass cornice which makes me think it was never topped out. Anywho, I'll only be annoyed if it gets forgotten about as its a beautiful short solo feature.<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/141283660" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe> <a href="https://vimeo.com/141283660">Chevin Arete</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/user3774974">Dave Warburton</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
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With Franco living in Newcastle and spending all of his free time working on his Key Heugh project, It was nice to meet up back on the Moors to a foggy, damp and disappointing day at Cringle Crag. The day was a success however with a headpoint FA of the pocketed prow which forms the right arete of Up From the Sky's. A tricky one to grade - 6a/b climbing far above the ground but with a potential swing into the wall below and with a 0.125 or whatever the smallest tricam is, i'm not convinced its any easier than E4... We gave it a low in the grade E5 as it felt pretty tricky - though climbing green rock in thick mist was probably a poor idea in retrospect.<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/141285930" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe> <a href="https://vimeo.com/141285930">Cringle Crag E5 6b</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/user3774974">Dave Warburton</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
<br />
Katie and I squeezed in a 6 day trip to Kalymnos as well, which was great. Better than I expected. The highlight of the trip was Katie fighting up a flash of the tufa-blob-perfection that is KalyNikla 6b *** which was brilliant. I did a lot of onsight 7a-7b which was I very happy with but I really need to start redpointing sport routes in the 7c and above sort of grade range....<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt_fwpVPGo7MfgIQbBNP2BmSayQ5VxezBtzBatLs4O4OZHdpbHRC3PqmR7zoFOmuwvVtBBcUohiTGtOy-VpuBiiEayudm56XrXlDsDsrkhJ0nNb6v0QIe2rGohOd9YqXu7vGgK4NAu0sSY/s1600/P1010808.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt_fwpVPGo7MfgIQbBNP2BmSayQ5VxezBtzBatLs4O4OZHdpbHRC3PqmR7zoFOmuwvVtBBcUohiTGtOy-VpuBiiEayudm56XrXlDsDsrkhJ0nNb6v0QIe2rGohOd9YqXu7vGgK4NAu0sSY/s320/P1010808.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Katie walking a great 6b</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSuTyr4ZWXHcB7rXeGXhpVJF4dp6yckg_-LtNJ6HDuuMmKiZ77O4Gq0KyzhyJa_x4eU2PctzOzLfcdcilSG5RUBnzK51Fr9OpUSh3VpurX1FWcozmIrHP3vnxznEoHJ-nXwoynrQTvLKdQ/s1600/P1010817.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSuTyr4ZWXHcB7rXeGXhpVJF4dp6yckg_-LtNJ6HDuuMmKiZ77O4Gq0KyzhyJa_x4eU2PctzOzLfcdcilSG5RUBnzK51Fr9OpUSh3VpurX1FWcozmIrHP3vnxznEoHJ-nXwoynrQTvLKdQ/s320/P1010817.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">KalyNikla - tufa perfection</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTCciz0cpDaHcaBhSZHYR6X88s-cSbODYOhPFwe05WRGRM913ndmvirvplo0NpJhYbI1hol6Tve1CtL9zOyUMDefUADsxp_-ItwzHWpdWaigMjzeqx7TTVSWDMSb0TLrHsNERrpkHYPzc8/s1600/P1010833.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTCciz0cpDaHcaBhSZHYR6X88s-cSbODYOhPFwe05WRGRM913ndmvirvplo0NpJhYbI1hol6Tve1CtL9zOyUMDefUADsxp_-ItwzHWpdWaigMjzeqx7TTVSWDMSb0TLrHsNERrpkHYPzc8/s320/P1010833.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">7a</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho7dZ3awwYevlQ0qjP-81bstxdvovKwQ1xdZbug_R2WMvyGM6Aallp8QbuGRzbnk4vlQpf-VD5cyfTJizMmdEusUlncSZsp9eqj1X7LmZxpZ6jcaDEQ5C1C_06RVlrlQgQUCQajCkX3ARv/s1600/P1010773.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho7dZ3awwYevlQ0qjP-81bstxdvovKwQ1xdZbug_R2WMvyGM6Aallp8QbuGRzbnk4vlQpf-VD5cyfTJizMmdEusUlncSZsp9eqj1X7LmZxpZ6jcaDEQ5C1C_06RVlrlQgQUCQajCkX3ARv/s320/P1010773.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">lowering off a 7a</td></tr>
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The Late Summer and then Autumn approached but with no real 'big ticks' - just pleasant experiences on nice routes in the Lakes, Yorkshire and the Peak. Armalite E4 6a**, Porcupine E3 6a*, Deep Pre-Meditated Lines E4 6b*, The Lady E4 6c **, Deathly Silence E4/5 6b, Arrie's Ook E4 6a **, Mighty Oak E3 6a **, Scar Wall E5 6a *, Autumn Wall E4 6a **.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7CkgqCpuF_ohRxAIKwgONDmXzOLKKuM1TmsO__aQhMZyMF993rTpUfKxdT5-KlPcLLL2E58NGUDTgLRXNnI9OlmfbKXnM6DkQ7oWldX9f93KDQvVMTnR5eY0tNOY5XJhVDYWE7Eao_HR9/s1600/P1010714.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7CkgqCpuF_ohRxAIKwgONDmXzOLKKuM1TmsO__aQhMZyMF993rTpUfKxdT5-KlPcLLL2E58NGUDTgLRXNnI9OlmfbKXnM6DkQ7oWldX9f93KDQvVMTnR5eY0tNOY5XJhVDYWE7Eao_HR9/s320/P1010714.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moorland bouldering</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVgXg68MLRcGktkQu1PxHHB6zn6vRo29DOHaK69pK1xUAyO-hwAeFY_i9LalmvPIPe85ttAuMYhH7KCCVoSIX8kFrmDzSQI5hXdFhyphenhypheneW9Nm_yfJhsj9GmQ0AlcFh6U2hQ4GmXOp49LYl4h/s1600/P1010731.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVgXg68MLRcGktkQu1PxHHB6zn6vRo29DOHaK69pK1xUAyO-hwAeFY_i9LalmvPIPe85ttAuMYhH7KCCVoSIX8kFrmDzSQI5hXdFhyphenhypheneW9Nm_yfJhsj9GmQ0AlcFh6U2hQ4GmXOp49LYl4h/s320/P1010731.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moorland bouldering x2</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="375" mozallowfullscreen="" src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/146576959" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe> <a href="https://vimeo.com/146576959">Scar Wall E5 6b*, Baildon Bank</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/user3774974">Dave Warburton</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
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<br />
My next blog should be more focussed. I'm considering what I want to do, what I want to achieve and what I feel I 'need' to do on the Moors for reasons beyond just my own climbing enjoyment.<br />
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Dave Warburtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12351066523275125737noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6074805351552553472.post-17256151757435395012015-01-07T14:57:00.000+00:002015-01-19T22:43:27.443+00:00The 2014 Moors Round Up<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
A brief round up of this years additions to the North York Moors.<br />
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Grey Earths Scar (Goathland) AKA Mallyon Spout:<br />
Pussy Riot SS (7a), Money For Nothing (7a), Mikail Khordorkovsky SS (7a), Midnight Sun (E5 6b) and Arctic 30 (6a). There is also at least one hard, excellent project.<br />
<br />
Glaisdale Rigg Quarries:<br />
A few nice bouldering additions, plus Kingmaker (E2 5b). Then the 'Hall Wall' provided some of the best highballs on the Moors with Ivanhoe (E5 6b), Franziskaner (E6 6c), Gnaedl Maedl (E6 6a) and Top Wizard (E6 7a) which is just around the corner. Still a couple of projects left.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpW1WyXH5jWHMf2XZIe9TbBKYvx0ymWRCzb0xFVqKxwxnZnJouMn8cDeWNiuAHK415x4BVrS6DGqejhMwUpSNBrQIK8Irm9uZtf9CmG9nPZlmTmynfiTIkrfO7XUEcMhmmAtdVpukCvrBv/s1600/IMG_1006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpW1WyXH5jWHMf2XZIe9TbBKYvx0ymWRCzb0xFVqKxwxnZnJouMn8cDeWNiuAHK415x4BVrS6DGqejhMwUpSNBrQIK8Irm9uZtf9CmG9nPZlmTmynfiTIkrfO7XUEcMhmmAtdVpukCvrBv/s1600/IMG_1006.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Franziskaner</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
March saw the first forays to what would become Maidens Bluff.... a huge find for the Moors this year.<br />
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Maidens Bluff:<br />
Jugendstil (E5 6b), Archaeopteryx (E6 6c), Jungfrau (E6 6b), Iron Maiden (E6 6c), Plasticman (E7 7a) & Splice The Mainbrace (E5 6a). <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifnSVNMlV2S-Y4CP4XXs9z-2vVQm-3S7fMF3ac-Gi0El2EuYYkwUYOz5hWV9LMQ_RbXqGHU18obYvarDhK-rNh5Ouwg87loogXnpUttbhXzjEc5E7XIiVojY-6zdatyV8-_Y6raHbio27o/s1600/Maidens+Bluff+Pex+Wall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifnSVNMlV2S-Y4CP4XXs9z-2vVQm-3S7fMF3ac-Gi0El2EuYYkwUYOz5hWV9LMQ_RbXqGHU18obYvarDhK-rNh5Ouwg87loogXnpUttbhXzjEc5E7XIiVojY-6zdatyV8-_Y6raHbio27o/s1600/Maidens+Bluff+Pex+Wall.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maiden's Topo</td></tr>
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Hillhouse Nab was fully worked out with the addition of Present Perfect (E7 7a), Pretertium (E7 7a) and Penthouse Perfection (E7 6c). All these climbs are short bouldery solos above a less than ideal landing. The perfect rock is well worth a visit though.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb514kxtnyVRZNtsVMMIPbG9Oyb1U0bSX7jWs4QL6Bb1jqUSTUOkzx2N6sOmVs_MmfvPa6csKpSjSTvDxPp18xt1MsJiPuIVTJP4wi39E19UeWbzE_d4hyphenhyphenerGUdna2riNg5xx_iZ0nPiYf/s1600/IMG_0711.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb514kxtnyVRZNtsVMMIPbG9Oyb1U0bSX7jWs4QL6Bb1jqUSTUOkzx2N6sOmVs_MmfvPa6csKpSjSTvDxPp18xt1MsJiPuIVTJP4wi39E19UeWbzE_d4hyphenhyphenerGUdna2riNg5xx_iZ0nPiYf/s1600/IMG_0711.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hillhouse</td></tr>
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Kay Nest was finally given a proper visit. The addition of Harbinger (E4 6b) and Man on the Edge (E5 6b) were a start of things to come at this sleeping giant of a crag. Later in the year the hanging slab was nearly fully developed with the additon of Flashpoint (E4 5b), Blaze of Glory (E6 6a) and Trailblazer (E5 5c). Very bold stuff, but ultimately steady slabby solos.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIGbXCNJQ062O0BIavbxFGC1_NO_XPlMyPi6oWN2lc0kXaxo90t0lklDMKiqT3Qk_H8gx2h3v4BFvm7QdGKtIUxsHdBvcAvM95jPEzKLeNCttPPm7LCj4On6s7O01Ks9gGmC_tSmDUqIlJ/s1600/IMG_6699.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIGbXCNJQ062O0BIavbxFGC1_NO_XPlMyPi6oWN2lc0kXaxo90t0lklDMKiqT3Qk_H8gx2h3v4BFvm7QdGKtIUxsHdBvcAvM95jPEzKLeNCttPPm7LCj4On6s7O01Ks9gGmC_tSmDUqIlJ/s1600/IMG_6699.JPG" height="320" width="195" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Man on the Edge - Kay Nest</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWo0O7BRDzjSBJXL7q51QdQ6El2ZmzWmhZlMElWQEhn13RNpwAYosBgpHGImI4wsEibjTsxeoa4R37pYvhXOd_88y4QfxpdwfUT3h45OU8anT_na2Sl1p4L6I1B22nyFRfkdPsS-6ZhZWQ/s1600/IMG_0964+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWo0O7BRDzjSBJXL7q51QdQ6El2ZmzWmhZlMElWQEhn13RNpwAYosBgpHGImI4wsEibjTsxeoa4R37pYvhXOd_88y4QfxpdwfUT3h45OU8anT_na2Sl1p4L6I1B22nyFRfkdPsS-6ZhZWQ/s1600/IMG_0964+-+Copy.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elysian Fields</td></tr>
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Our love-affair with Danby continued with Elysian Fields (E7 6a), Infinity in a Grain of Sand (E9 6c) and the super hard 'Jesus Project' getting ticked as Fly Agaric (E8 7a). Later in the season the addition of an excellent highball comparable to the best on the Moors and elsewhere 'Anubis' (E6 6b) was the best of the action. Two super bold solos Powerslave (E6 6a) and Ebola Tombola (E7 6b) were notable... Finally the Warburton brothers added the forked crack of Amun-Ra at a grade somewhere between VS 4c and E1 5a. No successful repeats yet...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV66dSyBbFAXKdlTkDomXWxccPZh8IkZ1LY6oGvWSVFzwsVP5jeq4JLMucbmOgfAtSyI_Ht9DTA9MmjWq_5NrqMcKX8rxuMyohzRrmmvIsc3QAXxn_XvsN-ljAikTIgNDLbfQIYHH4uXnk/s1600/IMG_0922.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV66dSyBbFAXKdlTkDomXWxccPZh8IkZ1LY6oGvWSVFzwsVP5jeq4JLMucbmOgfAtSyI_Ht9DTA9MmjWq_5NrqMcKX8rxuMyohzRrmmvIsc3QAXxn_XvsN-ljAikTIgNDLbfQIYHH4uXnk/s1600/IMG_0922.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fly Agaric</td></tr>
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Thorgill was dragged kicking and screaming into the modern day with the additions of Wheat From the Chaff (E6 6c) (Haha Fiend) and Parochial Master (E7 7b) as well as the bold, but steady and maybe E4 Turbulent Cascade (E6 6a).<br />
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Smugglers Terrace was finally given the attention it deserved with numerous additions to its buttresses; namely:<br />
The Basstard (E6 6c), Porpoise Economy (E6 6b), Ai No Barramuni (E4 6a), Marbled In Stone (E2 5b), Thanks for All the Fish (HVS 5b), Krill Zone (E6 6c), Leviathan (E6 6c), Clew Garnet (MVS 4b), Babel Fish (HVS 5b) and the first efforts on the 'Fox Holes' buttress with three routes between VS and HVS the best argubly being the right hand side of the sandy tower which gives an interesting HVS 4c - Hard of Herring.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXRLrm-xRkuyhYV46o-2clUtHkfwfvEPS-axDoRCDlzyjahXLP9tbZmbWjB7OWMK4r-7ojQF_8_bBoGk8-GA-9fGQxjXR7AGQdYgcPh-QVhsZMmFHGKADF-8RqipwH_PEBoJiFeDx_Rt56/s1600/BEN_1079+-blur.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXRLrm-xRkuyhYV46o-2clUtHkfwfvEPS-axDoRCDlzyjahXLP9tbZmbWjB7OWMK4r-7ojQF_8_bBoGk8-GA-9fGQxjXR7AGQdYgcPh-QVhsZMmFHGKADF-8RqipwH_PEBoJiFeDx_Rt56/s1600/BEN_1079+-blur.jpg" height="320" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plaice Lost in Time - Smugglers Terrace</td></tr>
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Development slowed down somewhat towards the end of the year with poorer weather, less time and less people around. However, notable additions were made thought mainly previously described (At Kay Nest, Smugglers Terrace and Danby). However, one of the best offerings to the Moors yet is a bold, dynamic and technical arete which is easily a match for Magic in the Air. Sanctuary (E6 6b) climbs the left arete of the impressive and as yet unclimbed Eskdale Wall. Plenty of projects left here!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Triptonite - Tarn Hole</td></tr>
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A very satisfying year. What lies in wait for the next year? A taster:<br />
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Kay Nest<br />
The Old Aid Line ~ E9 7a<br />
Arete E8 7b<br />
Grooved Arete ~ E7 6c<br />
Cracked Slab to Arete ~E4 6b<br />
Roofed Grooves 1 ~ E3 6a<br />
Roofed Grooves 2 ~ E2 5c<br />
Roofed Grooves 3 ~ E4 6b<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyCv_mntoIU3NOgNcbkAR2RbLTIY8jpSkYWoax6oA_pS9EJw0wEsG4lI8z6nk8lCUA6yaLHC802dvG8Qd8TF0xdk9iiQ4tGKrHuLeYTfqtbfc6x53p-QBMJKImIPWM2eBQmNr3XFsAfqoD/s1600/IMG_0841.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyCv_mntoIU3NOgNcbkAR2RbLTIY8jpSkYWoax6oA_pS9EJw0wEsG4lI8z6nk8lCUA6yaLHC802dvG8Qd8TF0xdk9iiQ4tGKrHuLeYTfqtbfc6x53p-QBMJKImIPWM2eBQmNr3XFsAfqoD/s1600/IMG_0841.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Project at Kay Nest</td></tr>
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Smugglers Terrace<br />
Sole Direct ~E8 7a<br />
Illusion Wall ~E9 7a<br />
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Glaisdale Quarries<br />
Webesque Project ~E6 6a<br />
Flakes Project ~E5 6c<br />
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Whitehill<br />
Landslip Arete ~E8 7a<br />
<br />
Goathland<br />
Prow Direct E10?<br />
Prow Crimp Project Font 7c+?<br />
Prow Right Side ~E7 6c<br />
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Eskdale Buttress<br />
The Walls - LOADS but all 6c or harder...<br />
The Arete E4 5c?<br />
Finger Crack E1 5c?<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiyUCFXYliMirsTIk_cPXngexcLwn4g_pl9NZMJPzWsqEq4LS2y8weDBZisqaAv2UoYoWK3o_eDb7JKJiYGMKv4St5Ae4yla0acfHyd6Y-si_4U3pHOrb7RB0PYMwEBtpI6FhSsA2_ySi4/s1600/IMG_0500.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiyUCFXYliMirsTIk_cPXngexcLwn4g_pl9NZMJPzWsqEq4LS2y8weDBZisqaAv2UoYoWK3o_eDb7JKJiYGMKv4St5Ae4yla0acfHyd6Y-si_4U3pHOrb7RB0PYMwEBtpI6FhSsA2_ySi4/s1600/IMG_0500.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eskdale Arete + Buttress</td></tr>
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<br />
Stoupe Brow - (loads of time needed here)<br />
On Crack ~E7 6b<br />
Barry E8 6b?<br />
Futuristic Arete E11?<br />
<br />
Maidens Bluff<br />
Sunrise Wall E10?<br />
Futuristic Herring Gull Project E8 7a (classic!)<br />
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Dave Warburtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12351066523275125737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6074805351552553472.post-67635910998823573752014-10-29T10:45:00.001+00:002014-10-29T10:49:13.219+00:00Smugglers Terrace Mini Guide<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Ready for the winter season. An excellent winter venue, quick drying and sheltered from Westerly winds. Around 40 routes from HVD to E7. Go there!<br />
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<iframe src='https://onedrive.live.com/embed?cid=4525FFAE2934D387&resid=4525FFAE2934D387%21855&authkey=ADwBVAzw1LqQqVQ&em=2&wdStartOn=1' width='476px' height='288px' frameborder='0'>This is an embedded <a target='_blank' href='http://office.com'>Microsoft Office</a> PDF, powered by <a target='_blank' href='http://office.com/webapps'>Office Online</a>.</iframe>Dave Warburtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12351066523275125737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6074805351552553472.post-11375538039406405112014-10-13T19:37:00.000+01:002014-10-13T19:37:03.892+01:00Connoirs return along with the rain<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The heat has broken, humidity dropping nicely and temperatures around 9 - 15 degrees. Perfect Moors trad connoirs. Unfortunately the rain has joined this temperature drop, which makes sense, but i'm also splitting my time between the Moors and Leeds.<br />
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After Sanctuary at Eskdale Crag, I was somewhat unsure what else I really fancied. I'm not as focused on projects as Franco, rather, I like to rattle off easier stuff as there is so much. Thus, my time spent around Castleton have seen me add to my tally of E4 - E7 headpointed FAs. Part of me thinks I could 'save' or leave some of these climbs either for the next wave of Moors developers, or to a time when I could do them in 'good style'. But, then I come to my senses - I enjoy climbing, and I enjoy climbing new things on the Moors in whatever style.<br />
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I soloed the groove right of Osiris, which provided an interesting E4 5c/6a. It starts up Osiris HVS 5a ** which is a cool hand crack, before stepping right into the bottomless groove (gear) and then up. Unfortunately it ends up by a large tree in a crack but its straightforward to climb up clean rock to the left with gear so its not a bad route. Osiris, incidentally is a sustained though somewhat unloved crack - well worth seeking out seeing as there are now 3 or 4 VS to E1 cracks at Danby which are great! I also found a cool, powerful and bold FA. It climbs up on slightly creaky flakes, powerful undercuts and then long reaches, all with poorish footholds. A final very bold highfooted rock over adds the finishing touch. It'll be one of my harder lines when I get it done ~ E7 6c.<br />
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Ravenswick is somewhere I see myself spending a great deal of time. I still very much want to bosh the big traverse, however I also spotted the 'pit' which has somehow gone unnoticed. It provides some of the highest climbing at the 'Wick but was shrouded by ivy. Fortunately however, Ivy is piss easy to remove and I soon had a blank canvass to climb. There is probably room for another route or two, however I climbed the central bulge direct at E3/4 6a. Classic Ravenswick stuff, decent holds if you find them but there is a plethora to choose from and that may be your downfall. A solo, though not ankle-breaky with some pads.<br />
<br />
I finished up with a quick hit of Danby after commuting back from a lie-in at Leeds - so not a very long day! I was going to jump on my Anubis Project, but decided to check out the buttress between the Polish Jungle and Osiris. I looked at it from below; a central scoop with a left and right arete. Three possible routes with the central scoop very attractive. My guesstimates were E3 5b to E5 5a/6a sort of terrain. I rapped down and soon realised that half of the buttress is an easyish plod, but then, with no gear hard moves reach the top. Interesting. No star stuff, but interesting. I shunted the central line attempting to style it up the central groove. No chance. I laybacked but this was insane. However, a good hold was just about spannable to, so I figured out a sequence with that. Jeez. OK, so its easy up to the groove then a bit balancy to reach across to the crimp. A lurch right to the good hold then powerful moves with poor feet allow a desperate rock over lock off move to reach the top. E7? E8?? 6b. I don't know. It's a classic Danby scarefest; i'm annoyed that the start wasn't sustained 6a or something, or that there isn't any gear. The top moves are excellent but I doubt anyone would bother repeating it; a three/four move boulder problem with a 10m fall? It's less bold than Howl Psyche (20m fall), though certainly harder physically. They're certainly bold. The left arete was a 'fun' E6 6a.<br />
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Elsewhere with Katie we've been exploring the area covered by the Over the Moors guidebook. Marsden and Chew Valley and all that. Had some nice days out, trying to balance crags with lower E grades with nice VS/HVS's. Generally been fairly successful, with my highlights being Necronomicon (E3 5c 1pt ***) & Godspell E2 5b ** (this would be amazing if it didnt have a massive easy slab in the middle) at Pule Hill and The Connection (E3 5c *) & Longwall Eliminate (E3 6a *) at Den Lane Quarry.<br />
<br />
Loads of interesting stuff around there to explore, i've got unfinished business at Running Hill Pits, Pots and Pans Quarry looks interesting, Chew Valley, Shooters Nab all have stuff that Katie and I can do - loads of stuff to look at and a COMPLETE CONTRAST to bold, lonely days out on the Moors. </div>
Dave Warburtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12351066523275125737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6074805351552553472.post-17669801052416440542014-10-01T21:06:00.000+01:002014-10-01T21:06:46.768+01:00Au revoir West Yorkshire - a return to the Moors<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
With my Masters finishing at Leeds Uni, I boshed a couple of days out i'd meant to do for years. Heptonstall to climb Forked Lightning Crack (E2/3) and a visit to Running Hill Pits.<br />
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'The Pits' are excellent and I might return in the future, couple of E4/5's that are geared which look ace. However, I made do with a ground up of Iguanodon (E5), flashes of Phaestus (E4), Weavers Wall (E3), Wind Breaker (E2) and Yarn Spinner (E4).<br />
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Forked Lightning with Katie was a bit of a treat. We'd spent the day at Standing Stones (my first trip to the Chew Valley) we're we'd boshed a couple of VS's which were very nice. However, I requested a quick trip to Heppy and Katie obliged.... Some cams, a no-hands rest and a bit of jamming/laybacking and I was at the top. Sweaty. Lovely evening, if a tad warm. Great route a true classic. Shame it's not a bit longer!<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/107681207" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/107681207">Eskdale Buttress</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user3774974">Dave Warburton</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
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Finally, after some more VS bashing around and about, I got a quick shunt and solo in at Eskdale Crag. A crag i've been meaning to start developing for years, I was belayer-less so just decided to wire it and go. A bold, technical start up to around 6m above a steep, but soft landing lands you at a hand ledge. From here, gear is placeable in a vertical crack, but with no friends I soloed the bold and exposed 5c finishing moves. I can't decide if its E5 6b ** or E6 6b **. Basically the finish is E2/3 5c with gear or like E5 5c without but the start is the 6b part. A 6b pull to get onto the arete, then some easier moves to get established ready for a 6a/b sequence which is slightly dynamic. The route is moderately pumpy as well actually. I had a pad attached to a rope but I decided falling off would be unpleasant and no one will hear you scream. Could have felt more serious due to this lonelyness factor?<br />
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Dave Warburtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12351066523275125737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6074805351552553472.post-84063903579530514832014-09-05T21:44:00.002+01:002014-10-01T21:08:08.168+01:00A long overdue roundup<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I haven't updated my blog for a while, because I haven't done any FAs on the Moors until recently. However, I have managed to achieve a couple of targets recently, which while not my hardest or indeed 'best' accomplishments they are non-the-less important to me.<br />
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First things first, I FINALLY got myself up Jurassic Scarp (E3 5b **) at Whitestonecliffe. It's been there for years. Ian had done it and Franco and Luke had done it after the traverse but i'd never bothered. I knew it was one of the best long pitches on the Moors. Anyway on a lovely sunny, perhaps too hot day, that I skived off University, I made a quick dispatch of this excellent route. It's pretty intense, quite harrassing I felt in the lower reaches, before an excellent roof and then a pumpy and sort of committing headwall. It probably does need doing sans threads. Don't think it would be E4 5b though...? Hard E3 5b then, I suppose.<br />
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Around the same time, after running some errands in Guisborough ran up to Highcliffe and shunted Magic in the Air (E7 6b ***). IT felt fine, bit reachy on the crux but nothing to bad. I could see the rain rolling in from the Pennines so after 2 and a half shunts I ran up it, with spots of rain beginning to fall. Quick whoop at the top and then I legged it down to pack everything up before running back to the car. Still got a soaking but it was worth it! Not a bad couple of hours - if that!<br />
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However the news worth writing about is the Smugglers Terrace. Matt has tirelessly been working his way through de-vegetating the crag and bush-whacking paths through the bracken - which this year has been flattened by an easterly wind. Even so, we decided if this crag was to become as popular as it should be, it would need to be less adventurous, as folks just aren't into adventures these days.<br />
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Over the period of a couple of weeks this summer a fair few routes at a variety of grades have been boshed. This crag has so much to offer its obscene, but we're slowly working our way through it. It's a shame, I can't understand why people don't go there to do FAs? I'd much rather do 1 FA than 20 soulless routes at Stanage, but each to their own decision.<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/105099748" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/105099748">Smugglers Terrace Aug 2014</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user3774974">Dave Warburton</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
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The new route list from the summer is now;<br />
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Mullet of Cocktail E2 5c *<br />
Emersion E4 5c *<br />
Privateel E5 6a<br />
Ai No Barramundi E4 6a **<br />
Krill Zone E5 6b *<br />
Clew Garnet VS 4c *<br />
Leviathan E5 6c **<br />
Porpoise Economy E6 6b **<br />
The Swordfish of a Thousand Truths E2 6a<br />
Hake Shake E2 5b<br />
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There must be around 20 or 30 more routes to be done on the 7 or 8 buttresses that exist. Some would require a brief effort to clean and others a mammoth effort. I'll steadily be working my way through them, but considering the majority of the lines left will be easier than E1 it would be nice if folk who climb around that grade did them!<br />
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It's getting close to being make or break time too, with the easier lines holding the vegetation better than the harder lines only regular visitation will keep the VS's etc in good condition. The harder lines are fine and will be forever. It's a shame people don't venture off the path a bit more but what will be, will be!</div>
Dave Warburtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12351066523275125737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6074805351552553472.post-8308807733437046322014-04-22T19:05:00.000+01:002014-09-05T19:15:38.333+01:00Another couple of walls and a topo (Maidens Bluff)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
A hot weekend before the perfect weather bubble bursts. First up a re-match with the wall right of Harbinger that I didn't want to do last time as we had no pads. Three pads on the ledges and a quick re-rehearse and it was done. It's got poor-ish but interesting hand holds and quite poor feet. I wasn't sure if this was 6b or 6c as it feels quite hard until your limbs are in the right place, but its steady away if they are. So probably E5 6b, rather than E5/6 6c. Either way, its only short and certainly not worth the walk in just to do, but over the next few years I can see the amount of HVS and above routes quadrupling.<br />
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Franco was busy with his GF, so I walked three pads down to Maidens Bluff and headpointed the wall between Jugendstil and Archaeopteryx. It's not really a squeezed in line, its difficult to explain. Basically its far harder to go sideways on the wall than it is to go straight up, so even though you'll probably on a metre or so right of Jugendstil, I never thought it would be easier to 'jump ship', however you might be able to hang on to push a cam into a thin break which is on Jugendstil - would box your fingers on the hand hanging on though, so i'd still probably solo it!<br />
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Its always interesting when climbing a wall like this, it needs some ascents and people to work out what the tech grades are (are they sustained 6b or 6c?) and also what are the best lines? I for example much prefer Archaeopteryx E6 6c (hard start) compared to Mullet of Cocktail (E6 6b). Both lines share the same bold, 6b/c finish but Archy has a harder start (I think). So Archy isn't the 'line of weakness' but it follows a cool flake feature which looks like it SHOULD be the line of weakness? I dunno. I just love the wall. Every route is sort of similar, a hard start, then easier moves leading to a high crux, but the moves are all wicked!<br />
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It's a bit of a play ground really, easy approach, simple shunting set ups on stakes and an easy walk up and down from the crag and only 20 minutes drive from home. Bon.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">E5 6b * - Jugendstil<br />
E6 6b - Gates of Tomorrow<br />
E6 6b/c * - Living on a Razors Edge<br />
E6 6c ** - Archaeopteryx<br />
E7 7a * - Plasticman<br />
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The four other lines are not lead.</td></tr>
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Dave Warburtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12351066523275125737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6074805351552553472.post-5248267222603355252014-04-17T18:36:00.001+01:002014-04-22T18:41:31.843+01:00Riding The Wave<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gnedlmaedl</td></tr>
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The perfect weather recently has allowed a gluttony of new routes and repeats from both myself and Franco. I'm going to condense this post to a mere list and some photos, but it's fair to say some of the routes I've done in the past ten days are amongst the technically hardest and best that I've managed to haul my carcass up. Loving climbing at the moment, try to get the most squeezed out of this weather wind and 'free time' before a hard finish to the Masters. What a week, all about riding the wave of momentum and not just mine, Franco's smashed some projects too.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Projekt </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elysian Fields AKA Death Arete</td></tr>
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The 10 days provided the following:<br />
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Archaeopteryx E6 6c ** - Maidens Bluff (Headpoint, Second Ascent)<br />
Splice the Mainbrace E5 6a * - Maidens Bluff (Flash, First Ascent)<br />
Harbinger E4/5 6b/c * - Kay Nest (Headpoint, First Ascent)<br />
Elysian Fields E7 6a ** - Danby Crag (Headpoint, First Ascent)<br />
Franziskaner E6 6c * - Glaisdale Rigg (Headpoint, Second Ascent (should have done GU but it was sooo hot))<br />
Gnedl Maedl E6 6a * - Glaisdale Rigg (Headpoint, Second Ascent)<br />
Powerslave VS 4c ** - Danby Crag (Seconded, First Ascent)<br />
Wheat from the Chaff E6 6c * - Thorgill (Headpoint, First Ascent) (Would be E7 without any pads)<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Harbinger</td></tr>
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Franco in the same space of time added: Plastic Man E7 7a ** (Maidens Bluff, Headpoint), Fly Agaric E9 7a (Danby, Headpoint) & Parochial Master E7 7b!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fly Agaric</td></tr>
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Awesome, hopefully I can add to this over the next couple of days, with a couple of lines on my mind at Kay Nest E6 6c, two at Maidens Bluff E6/7 6c and maybe even Rump de Stump E9 :-/<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Franziskaner</td></tr>
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Dave Warburtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12351066523275125737noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6074805351552553472.post-10969802541081172032014-04-06T11:08:00.003+01:002014-04-07T09:28:30.471+01:00A Blowy Blakey Project Sesh<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
It was a windy Saturday. The weather has been pretty iffy recently, with low cloud clag and occasional drizzle. Either way, we knew if the wind picked up then Hillhouse Nab would clear up straight away and to there we ventured with a couple of mats each.<br />
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I 'found' Hillhouse Nab last year while oft wandering around Blakey after driving home from work in Scarborough. I soloed the exquisite (if i do say so myself) arete which went at about E4 5c ***. Pretty bold but not very long and after the start all on fairly decent holds. It's a strange buttress. Perfect moorland sandstone, awesome holds and moves and it would certainly 'just' be a bouldering venue above flat pasture - but alas, it's perched above steep ground.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The concentrated gem that is Hillhouse Nab</td></tr>
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On my first visit I also shunted the arete into the hanging scoop - I wanted this line and also was aware of a direct which I made a mental note of thinking would be right up Franco's street. Last month, it was apparent it was right up Cookson's street, when he soloed the main wall starting just left of centre and attacking it with lank and guile. Present Perfect E7 7a *** was born and he noted that a super direct was also available.<br />
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So we both had projects in mind as we approached. I was more interested in Present Perfect than my arete to groove climb, but I quickly found it super reachy and crimpy powerfulness... I couldn't do it. So while Franco slid off down the hillside a couple of times from the nails start of the super direct I shunted the top section of the groove. A strange transitions between overhanging and slabby, on smears for feet and crimps for fingers. Enjoyable climbing to say the least.<br />
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I managed to do lots of moves and but felt far from wired. However, it's a strange line to shunt and Franco was asleep after completing his super direct; which adds a 7a/7b move to the start! Fucking nails! I couldn't top rope it either as a result, so I decided i'd just go for it and hope for the best. I new I could do the crux so provided the starting moves didn't impact on my strength or unchalk my tips then i'd be OK...<br />
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Up the arete for a couple of metres before stretching left to juggy crimps. The feet are fairly abysmal, so toe hooking around the arete bounce out to another flat crimp... I near fell off this move but it wouldn't have been too serious. From here you replace your toe higher up the arete feeling quite horizontal and go for a sloper with left...'Fall through' to get your foot on a smear, deadpoint a sidepull crimp and then stand up from over hang to slab to reach the top off a very insecure smear. Woops abound.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/91147957" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/91147957">Hillhouse Nabbb</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user3774974">Dave Warburton</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Committed through the roof heel-hooking a smear</td></tr>
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We left and bumped into Sam Marks and chums on the walk back to the car. We decided to go and take a look at the Duck Roof. A project of Sams, which we'd visited a couple of times but i'd yet to pull on at all. Franco had always been fairly close and it was a bit of an annoying route which we wanted to tick off the list of Moors FA's still to do! With our four pads plus one additional small pad, Franco carefully climbed the slightly damp roof taking a few jump offs. I also got involved for the first time and surprised myself with the reach through the roof. Unfortunately though, i was beyond total stretch and so was completely immobile when trying to reach through to the higher crimps... Too hard basically! Franco nailed it on his 3rd go a solid ground up effort with no cleaning, at a grade of E6 6c **... Safe to jump off, but don't fall!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Loons</td></tr>
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Dave Warburtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12351066523275125737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6074805351552553472.post-21778416105520354562014-04-02T20:51:00.001+01:002014-04-24T18:59:35.773+01:00Thruscross & Hawks Stones (aka Hugencroft)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Suffering from an apparent bout of Swine Flu, I felt somewhat under the weather this weekend. Even so, it was dry, if a little misty. I really needed to get myself back up to Hugencroft to have a look at the trad but I just couldn't be arsed to drive out beyond Halifax and so chose somewhere far closer.<br />
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Thruscross is a crag i've been to twice before. I'd climbed everything of note, as far as I was aware with the exception of Rewind, E6 6c *. This is a John Dunne solo, climbing the dual arete on the right of the impressive Thruscross boulder. I knew it was fairly OK with pads, though not fully 'safe' with a few rocks and uneven landing to add a bit of spice.<br />
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I turned up to a damp, seepy crag with my two pads... Balls. I wandered back to the car to get my shunt rope and had an abseil down the line. The wet was residual, not seepy, and I could tell it was starting to dry so I got my towels and chalk and started to repeated towel dry the various obvious holds. The climbing looked pretty interesting but fairly readable I thought.<br />
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Anyway, I slipped off the start twice, before eventually getting stood up on the break. A couple of damp, slippery slaps and I was on a good undercut/sidepull thing. Crimp - smear - lurch to top hold. Yes. A quality sequence and most unlike lots of gritstone routes in so much as it has good holds! I topped out and disturbed a Barn Owl (Which i'm positive happened to me last time I topped out on this boulder!)... Fortunately while i was packing up below the Owl swooped back into its lair.<br />
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Brill problem, probably font 6c/7a ish and still felt spicy with two pads. Would be a good route to add to the list of highball routelets where you turn up with a bunch of mates and pads.<br />
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The Sunday was more organised and this time i did get my arse to Hawks Stones. I shunted the majority of the trad lines at the crag. Rams Head Slab is a chipped central route on the slab at the far right of the crag. It is easy on chips up to a blind flake and zero friend. Then rock left twice to finish up the slab. Felt bold at E3 5c or so but you could stand and get rescued from any move I think. There was another line which started similarly up to the pocket, before moving up the groove and then out right to the arete to a junction with Pulse Racer (E6 6c **). A strange climb, obviously on solo it felt full E6 6a, but i'd have probably graded it E5 6a to lead with the zero friend - However that would then require routes like Walk With Me upgrading - so I decided this was probably E4 6a - unless this was Rams Head Slab !!<br />
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I shunted Eagles Nest, which was green and slippery in the crack, so no soloing that one! An impressive route which actually isn't a horrendous sandbag - its a good HVS 5b *** and deserves to get some attention! Trending left from the base of the crack, again on chips, is a solo finishing up the left headwall. I decided this was probably no harder than 5b or 5c. I think I gave it the grade of E3 5c but it is probably E3 5b on rethink and retrospectively called it Chips and Gravy...<br />
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The direct to this is Not My Stile E4 6a. A good addition straight up on pockets and crimps joining the previous route at the start of the old chips, soloing above a wooden stile - great landing!<br />
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I couldn't set up a rope down Walk With Me as it was windy as hell on the tops, so I went to try the very cool highball on the left side which again I couldn't quite do. More pads, colder conditions!<br />
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Great crag, lots to do there now its at least half documented. Hopefully a few people will check it out in favour of digging out more holds at Kebs.</div>
Dave Warburtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12351066523275125737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6074805351552553472.post-9619187905632096782014-03-24T22:03:00.000+00:002014-03-24T22:03:54.709+00:00A weekend on the Moors - Video.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I didn't make it home this weekend, so had to endure the torment of knowing the driest cragging in Britain was being enjoyed to the full by Franco, Neil and Mark. Looks like they had fun!<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="375" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/89897437" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/89897437">Escaping The Rains - Into The Moors</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2637200">Franco Cookson</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</div>
Dave Warburtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12351066523275125737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6074805351552553472.post-73652100348715830002014-03-16T10:54:00.003+00:002014-03-16T11:20:26.524+00:00Tarn Hole & High Crag<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Franco and I walked up to High Crag to check our progress on Australia Crack... It's possible but it'll be mighty hard! I had a project in mind up at Tarn Hole, something highball i'd previously not committed too. The line breaks left through steepness from a junction with A Reach Too Far (E4 6b ***) and probably adds a notch or two to both of those grades with a guess of E5 6c.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr_yncG-hh4SXatdNidccJr0UTSqEHEeKioKWgFMfuX1KxnRuAGUyGKnifzI3_edX5hUwk9nzmghW2w9HUcprYGuJcr480jyulwj90kMj4IgutQ5VlM2xzOJHrKuRqc_R4BNs-5G32okrY/s1600/IMG_0646.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr_yncG-hh4SXatdNidccJr0UTSqEHEeKioKWgFMfuX1KxnRuAGUyGKnifzI3_edX5hUwk9nzmghW2w9HUcprYGuJcr480jyulwj90kMj4IgutQ5VlM2xzOJHrKuRqc_R4BNs-5G32okrY/s1600/IMG_0646.JPG" height="261" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">E5 6c * - Excellent steep moves</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyK4-3faDBcXyPfopl_POSKJDQslHmgHeEpijX57twe7DE-XCy9VxQXvdVcqwacGLen4Mv8TLwr7_wCjimTYo60GEuF8uAXkn490q7jm43YGaV-RYELd9IamQ4ma11ePQURjRQFs9JyTNn/s1600/IMG_0648.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyK4-3faDBcXyPfopl_POSKJDQslHmgHeEpijX57twe7DE-XCy9VxQXvdVcqwacGLen4Mv8TLwr7_wCjimTYo60GEuF8uAXkn490q7jm43YGaV-RYELd9IamQ4ma11ePQURjRQFs9JyTNn/s1600/IMG_0648.JPG" height="236" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Slopey boldness</td></tr>
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The landing isn't great, but we did have a couple of pads. Some great heel-based moves on slopers, crimps and pockets. Not too high but not bouldering really either - or not enjoyable bouldering in any case! The wind was a bit harassing like.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8Y4VRnBu0D-7_TWn3s3yUAC1hmQ33_gwbU8hDDQr0Wj3pslfQxH77bVsI_8pWd0q-JR_kKdieuNvIa1yvKcDbIRkZjw22WHdtZeh4Nt0zyYhmWtQjzZTCZFTK-7HF6mj9Yce0QVgXOjtf/s1600/IMG_0659.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8Y4VRnBu0D-7_TWn3s3yUAC1hmQ33_gwbU8hDDQr0Wj3pslfQxH77bVsI_8pWd0q-JR_kKdieuNvIa1yvKcDbIRkZjw22WHdtZeh4Nt0zyYhmWtQjzZTCZFTK-7HF6mj9Yce0QVgXOjtf/s1600/IMG_0659.JPG" height="267" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Reach Too Far - E4 6b ***</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp0fBNbfmtvS9QGLGXGISY4KqEcYuky2LaF5Tq1hCwi4SmrtYxNkkANjOGiLKFIhhm0sgxc4EcokoBePriqoX-R_2j77pDD5nusJjwQ6IaWBMAzeP4qUyQ3bu-gzag_gVU1LbOZiI2eKuQ/s1600/IMG_0663.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp0fBNbfmtvS9QGLGXGISY4KqEcYuky2LaF5Tq1hCwi4SmrtYxNkkANjOGiLKFIhhm0sgxc4EcokoBePriqoX-R_2j77pDD5nusJjwQ6IaWBMAzeP4qUyQ3bu-gzag_gVU1LbOZiI2eKuQ/s1600/IMG_0663.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brilliant moves</td></tr>
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We finished the day with some bouldering and it's all in the video below... enjoy.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/89220404" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/89220404">Tripsdale - worthy of a guidebook of its own</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user3774974">Dave Warburton</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</div>
Dave Warburtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12351066523275125737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6074805351552553472.post-24251970770918374712014-03-16T10:41:00.002+00:002014-03-16T19:19:17.454+00:00Turbulent Cascade - Thorgill<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
A project of mine for about a year. I stuck a stake in and shunted the line a while ago but it was a tad damp and I considered it a bit bold to just 'do'. However a windy day suited an East facer and I asked if we could return to polish this 'back of the mind' climb off. Franco was psyched to look at Parochial Direct which i'm also pretty stoked for.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLb9IZZzGU2V-LyfQiYXutpyr-_1U_ZDajG7AhmhxFa3ID1VXZ3Gh-xVUFFiVTxFuj8AC0whVmASm8Wd8phPXU2O7Esm6_es93fuKXgGtFzmozFhRZkLwJSGjJNX9Knbdbb0EeqeOw8HjP/s1600/IMG_0632.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLb9IZZzGU2V-LyfQiYXutpyr-_1U_ZDajG7AhmhxFa3ID1VXZ3Gh-xVUFFiVTxFuj8AC0whVmASm8Wd8phPXU2O7Esm6_es93fuKXgGtFzmozFhRZkLwJSGjJNX9Knbdbb0EeqeOw8HjP/s1600/IMG_0632.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Parochial Master</td></tr>
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It didn't take long to remember the sequence and get ready. It was still damp but only on the 'E2 5a' section at the top so I was happy to go for it. It starts on two small crimps, from where a big span out right leads to a good hold. From here smeary feet allow a second big reach and hold match above a landing which doubles the distance you fall due to its steepness. At this point you can get a small cam in, which while not being excellent is certainly OK. An easy step right then gains the arete. This is unfortunate, if the line forged away direct up the wall it would be * or ** but it just doesn't it rocks right and up the easy but bold arete and groove you finish. There is a ferny ledge to the right but it's a 'hollow' ledge! It just sort of bridges the gap in a strange chimney.<br />
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I called it Turbulent Cascade, as that's what I envisage if you fluff the crux and fall down the steep gully landing! All in all certainly not the best route i've put up but that's definiately not to say it isn't good! We're just finding some absolute gems at the moment... it was strange it felt almost old school, a bit like some of the harder solo lines from the previous generations like Moonflower or Peel Out etc etc.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/89205775" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/89205775">Turbulent Cascade E6 6a - Thorgill</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user3774974">Dave Warburton</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
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Dave Warburtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12351066523275125737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6074805351552553472.post-15617323939904128402014-03-16T10:25:00.001+00:002014-03-16T11:26:59.817+00:00The Basstard & Turbot Charger - More Smugglers Terrace additions<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Franco and I escaped the brisk westerly down at the Terrace. It's absolutely perfect this time of year, the bracken is down and its warmer than being out in the wind. Franco had cleaned the central wall of Illusion Buttress - This buttress means a lot to Franco and I as it was this that we first spotted when walking along the cliff top years ago. However, early development focused on the crags to the left.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW3yAY8JSuWuqW9KT9pZWW4ln2BbOY9CvPbTH4rArS2sW_Jj78Jacn1MwS3ycCbfgC9gnbGtndXrmqwoO0sMt2e717DlK7WfQkk5dPjTxAM3ED4TYGH2w_nnZkqN6o7zswKk5CkCs4cjRG/s1600/IMG_0623.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW3yAY8JSuWuqW9KT9pZWW4ln2BbOY9CvPbTH4rArS2sW_Jj78Jacn1MwS3ycCbfgC9gnbGtndXrmqwoO0sMt2e717DlK7WfQkk5dPjTxAM3ED4TYGH2w_nnZkqN6o7zswKk5CkCs4cjRG/s1600/IMG_0623.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Illusion Buttress</td></tr>
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I'd previously developed a lot of the lower grade stuff with the best route to date being A Plaice Lost in Time E3 5c **. After a quick shunt by Franco, while I soloed a couple of new additions near the walk down at E4 6a and E1 5a. Both of these need properly cleaning as i had to yard on a rope to top out...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7-JegsPk6cvVJ6FBjEGBJ6bhlLPnwW8FB3zRCwSFWipW6Ulxaf8BAyHZNd3Ga7LS_86CiMA-btTi42ojXHltCy_S9-aBkSeJCw2kxhZA99xqSbIeLrdwIo35HEO32bkVNKGUXfIVyXA2-/s1600/IMG_0629.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7-JegsPk6cvVJ6FBjEGBJ6bhlLPnwW8FB3zRCwSFWipW6Ulxaf8BAyHZNd3Ga7LS_86CiMA-btTi42ojXHltCy_S9-aBkSeJCw2kxhZA99xqSbIeLrdwIo35HEO32bkVNKGUXfIVyXA2-/s1600/IMG_0629.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cross bedding</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7sSVfs5ECj7Kv2Si2OjCs90we_FkUvbA8IuO8n1z1mn_6zhFvTZxJqxHQYQIfI85EScj-fzuzLXO3UcYBDTOcx9_2N2B2eWT4ZURKuQK0il9LRQi-WJ7kF4CgXovVNufwzXGFv-qmFpBh/s1600/IMG_0630.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7sSVfs5ECj7Kv2Si2OjCs90we_FkUvbA8IuO8n1z1mn_6zhFvTZxJqxHQYQIfI85EScj-fzuzLXO3UcYBDTOcx9_2N2B2eWT4ZURKuQK0il9LRQi-WJ7kF4CgXovVNufwzXGFv-qmFpBh/s1600/IMG_0630.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cross bedding</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Anyway, Franco lead the central wall. Easy moves lead past a 6a undercutting move to good gear. From here a 6b sequence on crimps deposits you at a crimpy seam from where, athletic feet raising allow a huge reflexing rock over which allows you to grab a juggy rail! It's a massive move, but you're not going to hit the ground so you can go ground up on it! So I did, and I failed miserably. Disillusioned I tried to TR the line and couldn't touch it, so i worked quickly a traverse right along the seam (which was the line i'd originally envisaged as i presumed the direct would be nails....).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHFEoP635iJIarR66nO73Esyahsh4uHtQVAkcdD-wyt6vztnkORsMfI5fFdMPuZnQdAus1v4iAKPjqvvVr-KZXDRx8ca4Ql61S9sY5sITfaX3YVANjZpuqY3HGT2sVxeLkGqta19bNBHfH/s1600/IMG_0627.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHFEoP635iJIarR66nO73Esyahsh4uHtQVAkcdD-wyt6vztnkORsMfI5fFdMPuZnQdAus1v4iAKPjqvvVr-KZXDRx8ca4Ql61S9sY5sITfaX3YVANjZpuqY3HGT2sVxeLkGqta19bNBHfH/s1600/IMG_0627.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wave ripples</td></tr>
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I got psyched and lead it quite quickly, with only a minor scare coring my feet up on to the arete towards the end. Another fun E5 or so, which is safe with the small cams in the break. I want to get some photos of these two climbs... I'm also going to upload this again at higher res and with better music...<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/89083924" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/89083924">The Basstard & Turbot Charged - Smugglers Terrace Additions</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user3774974">Dave Warburton</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</div>
Dave Warburtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12351066523275125737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6074805351552553472.post-32636719446340137232014-03-16T10:08:00.001+00:002014-04-18T21:37:01.915+01:00Maiden's Bluff - Another new venue on the coast!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The coast is a treasure trove for the North York Moors climbing scene... Boulby bouldering, Stoupe Brow, Smugglers Terrace and now near the village of Goldsborough harbours a crag unlike any other on the 'Moors'. A collection of natural sea craglets and just off vertical slabby quarry faces... akin you might say to Pex Hill (but not urban). Matt Ferrier was the first of our group to get reconnaissance on the area and his time spent came up trumps.<br />
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Franco has been there a fair bit, just cleaning and shunting stuff. The rock is scrittly, but it soon cleans up and the main quarry wall provides 8m solos on crimps, pockets, nubbins, smears and usually involves 'popping' for a break at the top of the wall - exciting!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbQdJAsTbwT7lOQATKQR_gwF3n8PvEJ68fMzPo9CsfEp7vKIOYspK3eM-dj7Z9sq-BZ4Cj42qRXsA6oFpbhF5YHLtHVexlcNGclQewpc6_N7V-oEN8az2uANfIBssiEqtExojlbsnaYPHz/s1600/gold+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbQdJAsTbwT7lOQATKQR_gwF3n8PvEJ68fMzPo9CsfEp7vKIOYspK3eM-dj7Z9sq-BZ4Cj42qRXsA6oFpbhF5YHLtHVexlcNGclQewpc6_N7V-oEN8az2uANfIBssiEqtExojlbsnaYPHz/s1600/gold+3.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maidens Bluff - Looking slightly more slabby than it is...</td></tr>
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After a couple of days getting more samples for my ongoing university work, I dropped in on sunny afternoon to meet up with Franco. It faces East, so it doesn't get the sun during the day, but this means the conditions were grand. The easiest line on the wall climbs up a series of pockets on the left hand side. A tricky start deposits you at some juggy pockets. A lovely set of moves jugging between these pockets allows a scary rock over on a crimp and mono to be made and thus the top to be gained. There is gear, though its in a slightly hollow pocket. We both elected to solo the line which is excellent and weighs in somewhere around the E5 6b mark - quite tricky but hopefully it will clean up nicely with time and repeats! It was an absolute joy to climb this route!<br />
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The tech. 6c/7a routes are all wicked. I shunted a couple which I reckon i'll be able to solo at some point but may have to become long term projects. It's not all going to be in the mid to high E grades either, some easier lines could be achieved, plucked from the cliffs high above the North Sea. </div>
Dave Warburtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12351066523275125737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6074805351552553472.post-80888546970131779732014-03-16T09:21:00.001+00:002014-03-16T09:21:35.728+00:00Birk Crag - Harrogate: A chance to repeat some new additions<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I like to repeat peoples new climbs, whether they are bouldering or trad, if it's in my 'grade' range!! The weather was beautiful, I only had half a day and had been at Bridestones the day-previous and was aching somewhat. I decided i'd drop into Birk Crag, near the garden centre in Harrogate. I must admit, I am a tad odd when it comes to climbing - i'm just as happy ticking at pretty esoteric crags or Kilnsey/Malham etc. I chose this venue as it was only me and i'm feeling a bit skint at the moment so the 15min drive was good - only 2 minutes past Almscliffe.<br />
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I wandered down with a single pad and a shunt rope. However, I arrived to a pleasant looking wall with the grade E6 6b **. I lobbed my pad down, did some pull ups on the sloper and then set to looking at the holds, giving the ones I could reach a good chalking. It looked like a cool rock over, a Moors sort of move. Swing low, right heel and sit with big left flag. Pop up twice on sidepulls and I was soon at mono pockets... Sweet. A quick solo up the top wall, with a drop knee finish and I was done pulling through the roof at the top. The clean rock leads up the main wall, though the right arete is totally in reach tho it's wet through and green as fuck - perhaps it's always like that? Anyhow, E4 6b for my money as even without a pad I think from the tricky moves the flat landing would be 'ok'. The start felt like a tricky, excellent font 6c+, however the previous day i'd been bouldering with Will Hunt who is a sand-bag personified! So perhaps my opinion was skewed!<br />
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I couldn't look at the other E6 as it was wet, though it's a tad eliminate at the top where the crux is, but it looks like a bold move. I'd certainly recommend 'Centre Stage' as either a boulder problem or as a slightly defined highball donning blinkers and ignoring the arete to the right. Good stuff. </div>
Dave Warburtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12351066523275125737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6074805351552553472.post-2022646514628790022014-03-16T08:59:00.001+00:002014-03-16T08:59:35.198+00:00Two weekends in a row on Kebs Road<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I returned to Bridestones (W. Yorks) after an absence of many years. My first visit in first year at Uni was unfortunately a claggy, misty day when nothing was climbed - we just sat around waiting for it to clear. This however early March blue skys brought a lovely day of relaxed climbing. I warmed up along side Andy Hobson on Cleopatra 7a, which after a couple of false starts I ended up flashing it much to my pleasure - a lovely boulder problem and really 'my style'. Andy finished the job quickly too and we re-convened under Horror Arete 6c. This area classic is a stonking line and high enough to add some spice. Still not actually warm, I watched Andy and James climb up to the arete before bailing. I really wanted to flash Horror Arete, i'm not sure why though, I mean it's not sentimental to me it must just have an aura. Anyway, I was fortunate and I was soon getting my feet high on the arete and slapping to the ledge - My arms actually felt a tad dead topping out - presumably because it was only my second bit of climbing for the day - however the jump off quickly got the heart racing to get everything warm.<br />
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I tried the roof crack/pocket and ledge 7a+ problem on the otherside of Horror Arete boulder. A great move but that ledge is pure sand! Never mind.<br />
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We moved back over and quickly, maybe 4 or 5 go's saw us climb the brilliant, devious Out of Sight 7a. Another cracking problem. And a short, sweet day was complete.<br />
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The following weekend, Will Hunt, Billy Lawrence and I ventured just down the road to Hugencroft AKA Hawks Stones. We had a task of wading through the myriad of boulders, craglets and highballs trying to suss out the bouldering - which was clearly going to be excellent. After a dog shit start to the day, with high winds and clag (we went down near Todmorden for a cuppa and some 'sick' good food - as proclaimed by a local delinquent) the weather soon turned and we were afforded a few hours to get stuck in. As we suspected some brilliant bouldering and highballs on only slightly scrittly rock - which makes it all the more interesting!<br />
The highlights for me was the centre of the far left wall at about 6b, the area we dubbed 'undermined by rabbits' which is home to an easy font 5 slab / twin aretes climb, a pillar with a pocket in the middle which provides a perfect rockover/mantle and the left arete 6c+ of this which is gritstone wizardry at its finest (at a moderate grade) with finally a hanging groove at around font 6c providing the icing on the cake... Oh wait, there;s also two perfect 6b/6c aretes on the far right side past Rams Head Slab. Great stuff.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flounder - 6c </td></tr>
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I'll be back to look at the trad I reckon, there's two lines which i'm not convinced have been done previously, but the rest of it looks well worth another pop across from Leeds - maybe just with a shunt to kick start a bit of life into the venue.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vive le Tour! - 6c *</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Which leg is which...?</td></tr>
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Dave Warburtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12351066523275125737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6074805351552553472.post-61895865267058886432014-02-16T21:51:00.001+00:002014-03-16T08:31:18.303+00:00Castleton Rigg bouldering and a new addition in the Eastern Moors<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
A nice sunny day out on some rocks close to home. A few new problems for me and a nice re-acquaintance with some old friends.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/86843119" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/86843119">Castleton Rigg</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user3774974">Dave Warburton</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
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The following day, Franco and I returned to another venue soon to find its way into the guidebook. We'd previously developed a clutch of boulder problems in the first quarry bay from Font 5 to 6c+/7a, but the larger 'solo walls' demanded some attention on this warmer, sunny day.<br />
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A short clean and removal of any loose holds by Franco, allowed a quick ground up ascent above two alpkit thud pads. An easy start leads to a small overlap, which is turned via some small crimps and a high rock over. The upper wall is scary but steady on hard to spot crimps and ripples. A quality addition which we graded E5 6b *** as the wall is about 7m tall. It isn't really a boulder problem. The rest of the afternoon was spent on a great 6c/7a solo - a future E6/7?<br />
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(Edit: Franco returned 4 days later and polished off this class bit of movement, a fine addition climbing direct up the 'groove' ever so slightly left of centre of the wall. Excellent.)<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ivanhoe - E5 6b ***</td></tr>
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Dave Warburtonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12351066523275125737noreply@blogger.com0