The Moors....
Back to the Moors for a bit of new routing and old enemies. It started with a couple of new routes at Smuggler's Terrace with Katie, and a re-acquaintance with Maidens' Bluff. Katie and I popped in for an afternoon and ticked off the big groove which has been ignored for years. It took me a day and a half of cleaning mind you, but Katie dispatched the VS 4c quickly and I added the E2 5c up the arete and wall to the right. Good additions yet again.
As for Maiden's, the gap between Archaeopteryx and Futuristic has always been 'worth a look'. I abbed and brushed the line and found some pockets and edges. The typical Maidens cleaning work began, tooth brushing the holds and features. Some really don't inspire me confidence and others begin to take shape and 'clean up'. Both becoming less sandy and solid. It took a few sessions to work out the sequence and a bit of supergluing to stop the holds from shedding too much. But all in all, its another great highball, on good holds for the wall. The line is just a tad steeper than the walls to the left or right. It went at a similar grade to the rest of the routes to the left, probably E6 6b/c. Not sure on a name, dubbed it Jihad It Coming for the time being.
00003 from Franco Cookson on Vimeo.
Back to the Moors for a bit of new routing and old enemies. It started with a couple of new routes at Smuggler's Terrace with Katie, and a re-acquaintance with Maidens' Bluff. Katie and I popped in for an afternoon and ticked off the big groove which has been ignored for years. It took me a day and a half of cleaning mind you, but Katie dispatched the VS 4c quickly and I added the E2 5c up the arete and wall to the right. Good additions yet again.
As for Maiden's, the gap between Archaeopteryx and Futuristic has always been 'worth a look'. I abbed and brushed the line and found some pockets and edges. The typical Maidens cleaning work began, tooth brushing the holds and features. Some really don't inspire me confidence and others begin to take shape and 'clean up'. Both becoming less sandy and solid. It took a few sessions to work out the sequence and a bit of supergluing to stop the holds from shedding too much. But all in all, its another great highball, on good holds for the wall. The line is just a tad steeper than the walls to the left or right. It went at a similar grade to the rest of the routes to the left, probably E6 6b/c. Not sure on a name, dubbed it Jihad It Coming for the time being.
00003 from Franco Cookson on Vimeo.
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