Tuesday, 25 May 2010

Philleas Fog

Steve Ramsden, the Moors raider from Hull found a very good looking boulder problem at Camp Hill, Philleas Fog Font 7a*.
My final exam at Leeds Uni, Maths, was over and unable to find a climbing partner in Leeds i quickly made my way back to the Moors and after a meal with mum at a garden centre, i made my way with the dog to Philleas Fog.
The rock looked good and was still chalked from Steve's ascent. I quickly jumped on it, this time unfortunately without videos!
I didn't make much progess on my 'flash' attempt. I've seen his video and it made the start look easy and the top look hard but doable. I found the start quite a shock, but made it to the lunge for a good hold before struggling to get my feet up and falling off.
Second go was much better, i gained the crimp on the right which i found good until i started to pull on it, when i seemed to slip out of the blighter.
Over time, about 20 minutes i eventually (without using a heel on the big sidepull) gained the final flake/crimp on the left. Here Steve drops his right knee on a rightward facing hold and slaps the top. I tried and failed, miserably.
I gave up on the dropknee, and just placed a foot against the rightfacing hold and jumped for the top. The holds were ok, but the friction certainly wasn't brilliant. It was about 10 degrees and no wind, i was running out of chalk.
15 or 20 goes (from standing), two of which i held the top before popping, i eventually nailed the 'good' bit and made sure i didn't come off! This time from sitting, i had got the bottom of the little left flake/crimp where i could get a smaller but more positive contact.
Very Very Very happy, with this ascent. Mainly as it's brilliant climbing but also because i'd come from Leeds to do it!
Felt very much harder than Waylander, (Font 6c+), so if Philleas is Font 7a, then Waylander must be easier.
I've now repeated two of Steve's Font 7a's and found them both tricky but eventually got them. I think this is my achieveable bouldering grade, i've done a harder one mover of his, (For Leichenstein) but i did it differently.
Food for thought anyway, but i fancy the trad or sport :-)

Philleas Fogg @ Camp Hill from Ram Man on Vimeo.

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