Monday, 1 April 2013

More Fryup Dale Bouldering

Franco had returned from Manchester psyched as usual and quickly made his way to Danby Crag to his Mono Wall project. While there he checked out the rest of the hillside that splits Little Fryup from Great Fryup, and discovered a collection of bouldering venues. He was quite excited.

It has been good weather over the Easter weekend, however work commitments with the on going drilling program at York Potash, meant i didn't want to be too far from a road, my phone and Doves Nest site! That meant this local bouldering venue was the perfect balance between getting something done on my two days off and also not being uncontactable.

The location is top notch, a further continuation of the oft-eyed Freyr's Nab and together the 3 venues compliment each other well. First reached on the path from Little Fryup is 'Fairy Cross' which is home to two short buttresses with a collection of easy boulder problems and short solos. An unclimbed clean arete is the pick of the lines but requires non-snowy conditions for an ascent.

Gallop 6a+

5+ upper arete - Finkel Arete

From the top of the hill, where the troops of mythical wild moors horses dash about in and out of impressive Scot's Pines, you can either head north east to the Finkelstones or due south to the jutting Freyr's Nab. We wandered down to the Finkelstones, so called due to the proximity of Finkel Farm. This pleasant collection of boulders is in a medium-thick deciduous woodland and offers a view straight onto the hamlets of Great Fryup. Occasional wintry showers would pepper the slopes adding to the atmosphere.

Brainwashed Tory - 6b+

Brainwashed Tory - 6b+

The problems vary from bunched sit starts on small blocks to large, impressive roofs and craglets. We climbed a range of problems from 4+ to 7A+/7B on many of the blocks, with slabs, walls, aretes and jamming cracks, with gaps and new boulders surely still available. The odd project has been noted and will be dutifully returned too at some point.

Labyrinth - 7a+. Excellent compact arete

The highlight for me was the slopey arete, tackled from sit which became 'Labyrinth' 7A+. This looked when I first saw it and thought it might give a gentle 6-grade from sit. However it soon became apparent it had more to offer. Starting from sit with a jam in the roof, several height gaining slaps, toe hooks and high feet unlock the rising and curving arete-line. A direct through the roof also appealed and soon, after initally feeling impossible, turned out to perhaps be around 7C. I'll head back at some point with fresh arms and tips to give that a proper go i think.

Pocket Wall 6a+ / 7a for a right and direct finish, respectively

Some excellent stuff really, top notch location definiately a pleasant place to be in winter/spring but the bracken might cause some problems in summer? Certainly on the approach over the top but the Fairy Cross boulders will be OK and perhaps the Finkelstones will avoid high bracken in the trees?

Stone Wall 5+

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