Thursday, 4 April 2013

Limber Hill

Went to check out Steve Phelps Limber Hill boulder discovery on a warm, sunny day. After initially struggling to find the boulder and aimlessly walking around for two hours, i eventually found 'The Cutter' block. This was pretty much the boulder problem I wanted to do, an excellent 7a+ with what looked like a powerful, reachy move to a small crimp.

I arrived, tried to push as many of the pine needles off the holds with a stick from the top, and then set about flashing the line. I had seen Lee's video so knew the beta; so i warmed up and set to work. A short prelude, quick step up and I was soon up top in the pine needles... Felt closer to 6a+ and that was with all the holds having been wetted by soggy pine needles. Who knows? Perhaps it was the infamous 'sticky-damp'... Must have really suited my style, perhaps it was 6c or something?

After spending two hours finding the block and then 1 minute climbing it, I cleaned and climbed the short wall to the left, which if started low in the recess, gives a tricky first move. Could be easier if you start with your finger in the mono, or sat higher up the hill, but I gave it 6c? for the way i did it. A pleasant slopey top out awaits.

EDIT: Betaguides/Steven Phelps have already done the second problem, presumably from sit, at 6b and continued following the feature rather than direct. The crux is the low start, so there must be a 6b way of doing it!

Limber Hill from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.

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