Saturday, 27 April 2013

After work sessions - Clemmitt's...

The clocks going back and generally dry weather has allowed me a couple of sessions on the local crags after work. Thorgill, Clemmitt's & Ravenswick are all high on the list for crags achieveable for an hour or so's intensive effort.

I decided I would go for some of the boulder problems that had never previously interested me on previous day-hits. First on the list was The Lip 7b at Clemmitt's, a traverse on the Liberate Block. I warmed up on the 6c  Liberate which is a powerful starting and finish up a steep pocketed but short wall. I then quickly linked the traverse but failed to latch the final hold twice. Frustrating. I returned, after a 3 day period down in Leicestershire where I climbed some easy stuff at Beacon Hill and quickly despatched The Lip which is a good little problem...

While there I was astounded by the friction afforded by the 3 degree temperatures and strong winds. So I wandered over to Seal of Approval 6c, which is a bit contentious as there's a block you can start on but the problem starts without - stacked pads will also make a difference. Anyway, off one pad I felt the arete and it was positively sticky. I'd held this arete before and found is shockingly bad so i simply pulled up and was soon matching the higher arete and mantling it out. Cool little problem with a high foot or a heel...

More importantly, this got me thinking that In The Bag 7b+ which climbs the same arete from the right, would probably be OK. I have tried this a couple of times before but mainly the right hand version, as I didn't really understand why it finished on the left in an illogical fashion. Anyway, I pulled up and soon found myself suction cupping the arete in a quite positive manner... I fell off, but I knew it would go. Several attempts later I was matching and scraping my way up the higher arete quite boxed. It feels good to do it, I have no doubt that the perfect conditions helped immensely.

Tired, but still psyched to make the most of the conditions I sat down under Jabba's Butt 7b. I couldn't quite do this a while back, trying it backwards to Mike Adams the FA. However, I soon reverted to the original beta, but starting one move earlier with both hands in the pocket. It's a cool little problem not to be overlooked.

I was pretty stoked about this evening and left with battered hands but brimming with confidence. I'm not the strongest by a long shot and 7b/7b+ is pretty good for me. I can definitely climb harder but at this moment in time its excellent for me.




1 comment:

Victoria Barkley said...

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