A strange use of time recently, with short trips to crags usually in pretty poor conditions. Warm weather with strange localised showers meant we wanted to stay local but visit the north facers... with a hope they didn't retain any dampness.
Ravenscar was up first and after managing to figure out a starting sequence to Ch-Ching (E6/7 6c), i made the moves up and tried to slap to the hole. Unfortunately i went with my left and grabbed it momentarily, but was soon flipping off slapping down the rocks. A painful elbow and a few cuts, I was a little shaken but not too badly damaged. I was off put trying again though. Franco however, impressively flashed the climbing and it's still on my to do list as a first E6 ground up.
We journied to Wainstones and highballed very quickly, the lovely Peel Out E4 6b which felt pretty steady after a false start or two. West Face Direct E5 6c however felt a wee bit harder. One to try on a cloudy or colder day i reckon. Psycho Syndicate E5 6c was a good little tester, I had never really managed to get started on this, but after a fair few false starts, we found ourselves on the headwall. Tiny monos and very green rock quickly left us defeated. A return and perhaps an abseil to clean/look at holds might be a prudent use of time for this classic test piece. We soloed a direct to Chop Yat Ridge (VD) which was around HVS, a route we had thought about doing years before and never managed. It was easy today, but a boldish solo which affords adequate gear. Tony Marr climbed this apparently ** line a year previously, so alas, our 'project' was already done!
We warmed down at Garfit Quarry, quickly climbing the E2? 5c crackline, which is a tricky little number, probs E1 6a with poor feet. Crampon scratches and broken footholds suggests some chump has been trying to create as much damage at the crag as possible - I mean, they obviously weren't trying to climb anything, just scrape there feet on the rock! Fortunately, its only the first foot or so. Even so, good quality rock with techincal rock routes isn't really 'on', in regards to Moors sandstone. There are nearby chossy cliffs and shale banks that will afford much better outings. Botton Head, Cringle Moor, Landslip, Carlton Shale to name but a few.
Ravenscar was up first and after managing to figure out a starting sequence to Ch-Ching (E6/7 6c), i made the moves up and tried to slap to the hole. Unfortunately i went with my left and grabbed it momentarily, but was soon flipping off slapping down the rocks. A painful elbow and a few cuts, I was a little shaken but not too badly damaged. I was off put trying again though. Franco however, impressively flashed the climbing and it's still on my to do list as a first E6 ground up.
We journied to Wainstones and highballed very quickly, the lovely Peel Out E4 6b which felt pretty steady after a false start or two. West Face Direct E5 6c however felt a wee bit harder. One to try on a cloudy or colder day i reckon. Psycho Syndicate E5 6c was a good little tester, I had never really managed to get started on this, but after a fair few false starts, we found ourselves on the headwall. Tiny monos and very green rock quickly left us defeated. A return and perhaps an abseil to clean/look at holds might be a prudent use of time for this classic test piece. We soloed a direct to Chop Yat Ridge (VD) which was around HVS, a route we had thought about doing years before and never managed. It was easy today, but a boldish solo which affords adequate gear. Tony Marr climbed this apparently ** line a year previously, so alas, our 'project' was already done!
We warmed down at Garfit Quarry, quickly climbing the E2? 5c crackline, which is a tricky little number, probs E1 6a with poor feet. Crampon scratches and broken footholds suggests some chump has been trying to create as much damage at the crag as possible - I mean, they obviously weren't trying to climb anything, just scrape there feet on the rock! Fortunately, its only the first foot or so. Even so, good quality rock with techincal rock routes isn't really 'on', in regards to Moors sandstone. There are nearby chossy cliffs and shale banks that will afford much better outings. Botton Head, Cringle Moor, Landslip, Carlton Shale to name but a few.
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