Saturday, 4 August 2012

Esklets - Slip and Fly & Vinaig Arete

We returned for a couple of hours of guidebook checking at Esklets. We quickly climbed the 'E4 5c' arete I didn't fancy on the last visit in the full sun and found that un/fortunately, the route was actually much easier at around E2 5b. The moves are lovely, on good quality rock in an exposed setting. I enjoyed it, a pleasant outing.

I then lead, after a couple of false starts getting up to the flake, Slip and Fly E3/4 6b. I have previously had a quick look at the reach on this climb, which is pretty massive if your average height, it would seem! I utilised two very poor smears for feet and reached, half powerfully, half delicately towards the break. Latched, i sprinted the finish and encouraged franco to fl-onsight it. He did, with ease, reaching the break with his feet on the lower break! Massive.

A previous attempt at Vinaig Arete - E2 5b
I reckon if your sub 5' 11 or something, it's going to feel around E4 6b with it perhaps being E3 6a for the taller individual. It probably deserved E3 6b when the peg was new, but it's pretty rusty. It might hold, but i'll leave you to find out! Great route, loved the moves even if it was right at the edge of my reach. Will be interesting when the peg goes, I suspect top end E4 or E5 really, as the fall will be potentially nasty in the roofs? I dunno, we'll see.

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