Saturday, 4 August 2012

Stargazer Direct

A terrific route. Not eliminate in my opinion, infact I think this is better than Super Direct? Good moves and pro upto the break, then more small gear and further tricky moves. A small slot, which currently cointains a euro which Jas Wood used to protect the route and apparently a filed down RP was used on the FA. Certainly a tricky onsight! Which is why i would suggest this is hard E5, not E4 as currently suggested! This is added to the fact that the top move is reachy, tricky and amazing. Stargazer and Stargazer Direct are excellent routes on an excellent wall. The super direct appears to be a bit eliminate to me, as you just sort of climb the pits ignoring the large holds of Stargazer. Heck, whatever really some good routes here but perhaps graded in the past for headpoints and that top important hold is somewhat sandy, so perhaps still best approached in that manner? It's up to you... Certainly as good or better than any of the hardish stuff I played on Yorkshire Grit. Well worth doing.

I had a quick play on Cardiac Arrest, hard climbing pulling through the low roof, upper is thin but steadier, i.e less reachy. I noticed that the FA climbed to the ledge on the left than pulled to the good sidepull. If I do it, i'll do it like that, it's eliminate not to in my opinion and depending on where the side runners are I can see it being E4/5 6b? Looks full E6/7 6b to me to climb side-runner-less certainly on a par to Scut de scun ai. Bold. Not sure it's worth it, i certainly won't be investing any time.


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