Sophie returned from Deutschland and we returned to Thorgill, a crag set in lovely surroundings near the sleepy village of Rosedale. Franco was keen to check the highball wall out and I was interested in a bit of the bouldering too.
We warmed up on the slopey, slippy Thorsminde (7a) and then boshed the excellent Bermuda (7a+), which climbs on positive crimps and pockets on a steep section of wall avoiding the right arete, finishing at the apex, which fortunately feels natural and non-eliminate. Ace. Franco then turned his attention to a 7c, which i looked at a 7b dyno called KGB. I like the idea/motion of dynos, but i'm absolutely crap at holding holds dynamically and i really fail to time everything and generate the power required. Anyway, after 7 or 8 goes, i found myself swinging from the monster jugs at the top. Delighted.
Franco then started work climbing the red coloured, barrel-shaped wall above this boulder which was clearly home to a tricky highball. Franco cleaned the centre of the wall to an undercut, while i looked at a hole a metre or so to the right. After some holly tree bending, i found this provided the easiest method of gaining the line of pockets at 1/3 height. I however, found the start anything but easy and repeatedly failed on the move even though my fingers were around 1mm from the hold. I couldn't static it and if i popped i fell off. I got increasingly annoyed and this increased when Franco simply reached the hold, barely trying!
He found the upper wall bold, but soon managed the line above our raft of pads :-)
Thorgill highball from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.
I, eventually, repeated the route too which was a good confidence builder for me, as i'd probs not have managed this last year. All in all a good shortish day. Some good bouldering, a first 7b for me and it was a dyno and then finishing up with a highball 7a/E5 6b which we both thought was rather good... Two E5 6b's this week at opposite ends of the style/climbing variety spectrum.
We warmed up on the slopey, slippy Thorsminde (7a) and then boshed the excellent Bermuda (7a+), which climbs on positive crimps and pockets on a steep section of wall avoiding the right arete, finishing at the apex, which fortunately feels natural and non-eliminate. Ace. Franco then turned his attention to a 7c, which i looked at a 7b dyno called KGB. I like the idea/motion of dynos, but i'm absolutely crap at holding holds dynamically and i really fail to time everything and generate the power required. Anyway, after 7 or 8 goes, i found myself swinging from the monster jugs at the top. Delighted.
 |
| Bermuda - 7a+ ** |
Franco then started work climbing the red coloured, barrel-shaped wall above this boulder which was clearly home to a tricky highball. Franco cleaned the centre of the wall to an undercut, while i looked at a hole a metre or so to the right. After some holly tree bending, i found this provided the easiest method of gaining the line of pockets at 1/3 height. I however, found the start anything but easy and repeatedly failed on the move even though my fingers were around 1mm from the hold. I couldn't static it and if i popped i fell off. I got increasingly annoyed and this increased when Franco simply reached the hold, barely trying!
He found the upper wall bold, but soon managed the line above our raft of pads :-)
 |
| The Parochial Dream - E5 6b * |
Thorgill highball from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.
I, eventually, repeated the route too which was a good confidence builder for me, as i'd probs not have managed this last year. All in all a good shortish day. Some good bouldering, a first 7b for me and it was a dyno and then finishing up with a highball 7a/E5 6b which we both thought was rather good... Two E5 6b's this week at opposite ends of the style/climbing variety spectrum.
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