Friday, 11 March 2011


After a fair few limestone visits, Huw said he was more keen for a gritstone crag. I decided i had some unfinished buisness at Slipstones, Huw had never been and i knew i could fill a car with people to pay the way.

We arrived to sun and nice temperatures, story of the week! not bad for march. Anyhow, I decided to focus my attentions rather than just randomly soloing everything, so got straight on Ripper and after a early slip i was topping out after the exciting upper section, not one to be underestimated. The day got pretty productive, with leads of 'Zoom' (HVS), 'Agra' (HVS) two routes i'd never had the balls to solo, seeing as they are so well protected. Also did Wisecrack which was nice, as it had always looked nails when i was younger.
I also managed 'Timeless Divide' which is the hanging arete after a V4 boulder problem start, I'd seen a chap lead it way back when and he said it was a whale top out and fully deserving of E2.
I climbed the V4 start and then plugged some cams in that break, which you could sleep under! then, knee bar in utilising the obvious holds (which i didn't do for a while!) i found the jugs on the top... whale you say?

After this, i only really had 2 objectives left. Sulky little boys, the Font7a+ arete, (which i later found is nails!) and Atomic (E3). Timmy was keen for Atomic, so i lead up, committed to the pocket and pulled for the top. It felt piss, really easy. Until i ended up down by timmy... What went wrong?! I tried it again and got further away from doing it 4 more times! Timmy then had some plays and eventually got it. Spurred on by this, i got back on and 'sent' it first go? Completely identical sequence everytime, was it cooler? more windy? No idea, but anyhow it's a great little sequence a cool V3? above the cam laced break.

An evening was spent soloing around on the brilliant micro routes, Aces High (VS), Ellingstring (VS), Steve's Wall, Pauls Arete and Stainthorpes Wall (all E1). We also met a potential Leeds Unier as well, which was nice we need a few more keen climbers to join the club who know what they're doing already!!

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