My thoughts this year have been on getting stronger and better as a climber - rather than just focusing on trad. My nemesis is bouldering, especially so gritstone but i have gritted my teeth recently and have 'hit the cliffe' with my housemate Huw. I must admit that i am fond of what i class as 'highball' gritstone like Simon's Seat South Crag and Ogden Clough but 'harder' more technical or powerful bouldering isn't my thing - as i don't get on with slopers and i'm not strong - Hence why i'm willing to try it now as it's bound to get me strong!
Anyhow, a couple of trips to Almscliffe allowed the ticking of some V6/font7a's around the Crucifix area of Almscliffe and i'm currently failing on the last move of Demon Wall Roof font 7a+, this i'm fairly sure will go soon. I've briefly held the top hold of Crusis Font 7a+/7b?? and me and Huw's currently project is 'The Keel'. This is V8+/Font 7b+ and involves some pretty cool moves, so i'm looking forward to getting back to this, hopefully i can finish off DWroof so i can focus on it more.
I've also managed to get some limestone action in, we travelled to the very quickly drying Robin Proctors Scar. When we arrived it was chilly, damp and we warmed up on some F6a+, which was really nice. The crag quickly dried off and i decided to try to get through some F6c/F6c+'s as there is only 2 F7a/F7a+'s and they didn't look my style. Anyhow, i enjoyed the 'milage' 6c day and it bodes well for E3 ticking. Very very keen to get to some other crags around, thinking Panorama and Moughton soon for more focussed F7.. climbing which i'm looking forward too. It's all training for becoming a stronger climber which i should do, it will definately aid my trad climbing. In conjunction with the bouldering too i feel more confident on the gritstone, ultimately i'm getting more out of my increasingly runnning out number of days climbing (due to geology related field course and exams).
We'll see what happens in the next few weeks - i think we have 5 weeks or so until easter, where we go to Ireland for 2 weeks geologying and then 2 weeks in Spain sport climbing (which is what all this training is for). After Easter spain, it's all about revision and catching up on the work i should have done in easter (fieldwork reports!) so i think i'll miss climbing here and then after hte exams it's straight out to the dales for my dissertation mapping. I will get some climbing in here, i must admit i could be somewhere shit, but i will probably have to work extra hard for partners and such. Looks like a year of Limestone for me and more importantly bouldering and sport! Keen for it, if i'm honest!
Anyhow, a couple of trips to Almscliffe allowed the ticking of some V6/font7a's around the Crucifix area of Almscliffe and i'm currently failing on the last move of Demon Wall Roof font 7a+, this i'm fairly sure will go soon. I've briefly held the top hold of Crusis Font 7a+/7b?? and me and Huw's currently project is 'The Keel'. This is V8+/Font 7b+ and involves some pretty cool moves, so i'm looking forward to getting back to this, hopefully i can finish off DWroof so i can focus on it more.
I've also managed to get some limestone action in, we travelled to the very quickly drying Robin Proctors Scar. When we arrived it was chilly, damp and we warmed up on some F6a+, which was really nice. The crag quickly dried off and i decided to try to get through some F6c/F6c+'s as there is only 2 F7a/F7a+'s and they didn't look my style. Anyhow, i enjoyed the 'milage' 6c day and it bodes well for E3 ticking. Very very keen to get to some other crags around, thinking Panorama and Moughton soon for more focussed F7.. climbing which i'm looking forward too. It's all training for becoming a stronger climber which i should do, it will definately aid my trad climbing. In conjunction with the bouldering too i feel more confident on the gritstone, ultimately i'm getting more out of my increasingly runnning out number of days climbing (due to geology related field course and exams).
We'll see what happens in the next few weeks - i think we have 5 weeks or so until easter, where we go to Ireland for 2 weeks geologying and then 2 weeks in Spain sport climbing (which is what all this training is for). After Easter spain, it's all about revision and catching up on the work i should have done in easter (fieldwork reports!) so i think i'll miss climbing here and then after hte exams it's straight out to the dales for my dissertation mapping. I will get some climbing in here, i must admit i could be somewhere shit, but i will probably have to work extra hard for partners and such. Looks like a year of Limestone for me and more importantly bouldering and sport! Keen for it, if i'm honest!
1 comment:
boy you need a schooling in gritstone highballing. I am preparing a list of true gritstone highball project(none of this sub-10m rubbish)
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