Saturday, 8 May 2010


I returned to the moors, for a 'relax' before revising for my exams. I decided to keep the climbing to a minimum and to 'push' my technical grade, rather than do stuff comfortably. I had intended to shunt something hard at Ravenscar or Highcliffe, but the northerly wind made it pretty darn chilly.

I elected to bosh up to Ingleby Incline to check out 'the 4th best boulder problem on the moors', after repeating Steve Ramsdens; The Prow (Font 7a), For Liechenstein (Font 7b) and also having a day bouldering with Lee at Stormy Hall, i decided that this statement was probably truthful.

Rocking up to the boulder listening to Roxy Music, oh yes. The Boulder, is nestled in trees about 1/2 mile before the cottages along the track. It's fairly easy to see if you keep your eyes open at the large tree clearing to your left.

I had a 5 minute warm up then got on the wall, it looked 'flashable' from their video but their beta seemed wierd, once i got on it! Ultimately, i failed - struggling to hold a small sloping crimp from a half lock off move.

Second go was more of the same, this time i slapped to the top from the slopy crimp but it's not 'the way' to do the problem. 3rd go was a disaster, as i was tired so i decided this was the time to have a rest, drink and chillout to some more Roxy Music... 4th go, i managed the moves and the wet top out. I don't have a video for me doing it, on here as it's larger than 100mb, but i'm working on uploading it to Facebook or Vimeo etc, then linking it back... Failing that, watch Steve Ramsden's 'Moors Attacks' Video - Link to his blog in the right margin.

Waylander - Font 6c+ from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.

I then got all horticultural and removed the tree that was blocking a lovely looking traverse line...

This traverse leads into the crux of Waylander, which is a beaut. It took a few goes to find the holds i needed and clean them, then sort a sequence. I have a video of this, unfortunately my camera batteries weren't up to the job and died on me.

After a good 20 minutes rest and recoup, i had maybe my 10th or 11th go at the traverse-into-Waylander an it went. It's a great extension in my eyes but not technically more difficult. It starts at the right of the boulder on two good incuts and a right foot on a low pocket thing. Pull up and place your left foot on the ramp (Quite frequently your right foot touches the floor here, unfortuantely) then cross through with your right hand to an undercut. One powerful move and your established on the traverse and more importantly you're fully prepared to meet the Waylander crux after 1o or so previous moves ;-) Grade - i'm not brilliant at boulder grading, but i'd guess that seeing as its Font 6c+ for Waylander and the traverse itself is maybe Font 6b, that together it makes a 'more sustained 6c+', rather than Font 7a. It didn't feel as hard as The Prow at Wainstones, though the climbing is totally different!

I had planned to walk up to Battersby Crag - but i didn't feel like it and without a camera to take photos i had no real reason. I quickly climbed the Left arete, on it's right side that was pleasant enough then departed, running back to the car for some 'Alps training'.

1 comment:

Betaguides said...

A quality Moors problem, nice work on the addition