Sunday, 16 May 2010

Almscliffe - Black Wall Eliminate

Hadn't been to Almscliffe for ages and since i've come to Leeds it's only my 3rd visit. I find the place a bit annoying (even for grit) with its 'bad reputation' and 'gods own rock' bollocks. Either way, Ian Jackson used to be fond of the place, ticking many of the classic lines then he'd often solo repeat them. Most impressively, Black Wall Eliminate (pumpy E2) and Five Star Finish to Great Western (HVS).
I always meant to get on Black Wall Eliminate on my second visit to the crag but ended up just doing Syrett's Roof (font 6c / E3), i think that must have been a short day?
Anyway, we arrived in the late afternoon after a day of revision and i quickly climbed Black Wall Eliminate, which i have to admit i didn't fancy soloing! I placed 3 runners and found the climbing fine but on solo, even as repeat, would have been quite goey.
Next up, two nice climbs that i didn't expect to get on really as they certainly didn't 'appeal' to me, but i was feeling energetic.
Clematis (E2) climbs up to the right of Orchist, 'via long reachs between good holds' which i decided to get on as i don't like reaches. Anyway, after fannying around placing gear and a downclimb for a rest, i made the reach out right and after a bellyflop rest under the block at the top, i topped out on this enjoyable little climb.
Checking the logbooks, people seem to solo this route? Ordinarily, i'd often log climbs as solo that most people lead but this was the other way around. Perhaps im losing my soloing head?

I decided that wasn't the case and after bouldering out the start, i quickly despatches Bancroft's Roof (E2 6b) which was nice, with a bold 5c move getting over the roof at the top.

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