Friday, 28 November 2008

Long Weekend - Bridestones

Fantastic, a 4 day weekend from College and only a small amount of homework - what could be better for a climber?
Unfortunately the weather had other ideas, with Thursday being a complete washout. I checked the weather again and again and the general consensus was that Friday would be cold with showers later on.
Friday morning however showed a different story, it was very cold about -3 and the day was supposed to stay that way all day, so i decided bouldering was in order. Without Franco, i decided against Slipstones as i would require his ability to 'figure out' boulder problems, so i opted to the North Yorkshire Moors, humble answer to Brimham - Bridestones.
It was icy on the drive to the 'stones and after a loongish walk in (to get around paying £7 toll!) we arrived convieniently at 'problem 1' on 'Pinnacle 1'.
My aim for today was to solo every line that looked good and to continue until i could climb no more.
I climbed a host of problems on Pinnacle 1 and 2, with the roof problems being especially worthwhile. I then walked over to the 'Pepperpot'. This lump of rock, standing alone on a rather thin stance has a couple of named problems on it and they are Mr, Master and Mrs Pepperpot.

I managed Master Pepperpot onsight, which i was rather pleased about. However, i thought it was probably slightly over graded, though it did depend on a loong reach.
I then climbed Mrs Pepperpot. This was harder, not technically, but because the holds above the overhang were 'soapy' (due to moist rock and sandy layer mixing) I fell off. Disgrunted i jumped on it again. Climbing to the roof, gaining the juggy pockets and swinging out - i hooked a foot over the roof and pulled. I didn't enjoy the scrabble with the soapy rock!
The groove on this buttress is also worth a mention, though i thought it was quite high considering, getting progressively steeper but on better holds.

After this i ventured to the High Bridestones (lewis, who had accompanied me was still on the pinnacles i think) and i looked at the guide. Instantly 'Big Dog's Cock' stuck out as a must do route! not just for the name, but also because it talked of "pulling over the roof - scary!". One to do without the mat i thought.
Sure enough i did, and thought it was worth HVS 5c as the landing looked superb. The climb itself was pretty good as well, climbing a sandy scoop to a capping roof. I gained the prominent roof from the right and hooked my heel into one of the water eroded jugs on the top. Not a time to slip if i cared about my ankles!

After some traverses and gentle 5a warm downs, i soloed 'Big Dog's Cock' again so Lewis could grab some photos.

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