Friday, 7 November 2008

An Poor End to an OK Month

We had already decided the Peak was the plan for the half term holidays. Looking at climbing all the classic VS's (probably solo) and HVS's/E1,2,3's that Franco had nailed on his previous Peak trips and i was after E4's in Jetrunner and The Strangler. Franco also had his sights on Black Hawk Bastion at Stanage and Life Assurance at Burbage.
I drove down on the Tuesday morning, it was cold and quite breezy but the conditions were good for Grit. We set to work, immediatedly Franco soloing Hargreaves Original at Stanage. I decided that Central Trinity was a better option but soon i found myself on Hargreaves as well. The slopey reputation seemed a tad exaggerated but it is a tremendous climb.
Next we did Inverted V which looks like such an immense line and it doesn't disappoint i opted for the righthand finish, but franco did the left hand as he had done the right hand finish before.
After this we did some short solos on 'Rusty Wall' and then i roped up for Flying Buttress Direct. A route i think everyone wants to do, however i was a tad cautious and climbed with some trepidation. The snow was falling at this point, which was quite cool and it was cold so my hands were numb. I thought to myself about all the unusual ascents we have had - climbing Seams the Same at 6am in the Slate Mines, ascending 'The Hot Line' at Rylstone in two pitches because we were arguing over who's lead it was!
This was different though, the cold and snow made this seem somewhat epic and Stanage almost had an 'adventurous' feel to it. I placed my largest nut at the back of the roof and then tested the holds. I could feel what to do, but i didn't trust my hands and i hadn't seen anyone climb the route so i wasn't too sure about how to overcome the roof... it certainly doesnt look HVS.
I reached and swung out. Hooked a heel on the the break and reached again. I couldn't feel anything. The snow was dampening the holds and it was bloody cold.
I rolled onto the next break and laid there for a bit, giggling at my lack of 'finesse' but i guess the route doesnt really take well to style.
I managed to stand up and ran it out to the top. Spot on route really fun move over the roof but i couldn't say it was HVS with a straight face!
The next day was too cold to climb, we bouldered at Plantation but we weren't particularly bothered about anything and the next day we called an end to it, after the start motor in the car stuck. I called the RAC and they fixed us and i drove home, under orders not to stop the engine!

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