Clemmitt's Innit

Having never bouldered at Clemmitts in the woods, though i have had a rather nice couple of sessions on the 'out the woods' section, I decided to check it out rather than shunting at Round Crag or Danby. The weather had obviously been dryish for a couple of days by the feel of the air and i decided Clemmitts in the woods might be dry enough for a check out.
I arrived to a green-looking boulder field, but checking out the Cloud Nine boulder, i soon realised it was dry and climbable, even if the ground was damp and leafy. The tops of some of the boulders were seepy but not a major problem and the occasional cooling breeze would keep the climbing just right in the positively balmy, February warmth!

I warmed up with some quick onsights of Cloud Nine (6a), Princess Leia (6c) and the other pleasant slab things here and there. I then tried the rather cool looking leaning arete i had seen some photos of Sam trying a week or so earlier. Given 6c+ i thought it would provide a bit of working and the climbing looked good. However sitting down and pulling onto 'Arrogance of Youth' i soon found myself placing a bomber left heel and small left crimp, reach to a juggy pocket and up to a flatty. Match and mantle and over. Interesting climbing and a nice feature but seemingly no more than 6b+?

Buoyed by this, i sat down on the otherside of the boulder at Off the Rails (6c) and pulled up to a small crimp and lopped a left heel on and rocked into the juggy break. I topped out into the heather (!) and then sat down again and popped from the starting holds to the jug and then again to the slopy rail. Obviously this has cleaned up nicely as the climbing is no more than 6a+/6b. But adds to an excellent little circuit already.

I kept glimpsing views of a buttress with a horizontal crack that i'd seen a video of Franco doing some dynos on. I walked up and tried T-Rex (6c) and after a couple of goes to find out where to jump to, i found the sloper and got jumping. It didn't take long, before i was rocking onto the wet top and climbed back down the 5+ to access Dyno Saw (6b+). I thought this was just as hard, with a much larger dyno to a very good hold. Both really nice dynos and well worth doing. I then had a quick play on 'Sandman boulder' doing the weird left to right traverse (6b+) which is probably about 6a+ and then i did the 'project' which, i flashed at 6b, and was obviously one of Lee's 'left projects' for others to do.

Feeling a tad tired, but enjoying the feel of climbing after a few weeks off in nice weather with the dog for company, i sat under 'Iron Bru' on Iron Bar boulder. Given 7a in the guide, i figured out where the holds were and chalked and cleaned them. I pulled on and tenuously grabbed the crimps above. Up to a slopey and damp top i thought the climbing was more like 6c/6c+. I tried 'Iron Bar' (7a+/7b?) and found the climbing good, one to go back for.

The following day; psyched to check out a few other problems i quickly tried 'In the Bag' (7b+) but found the moves on slopers too hard for me in the balmy double figure temps... so i wandered to 'The Bear (7a/7a+) and spent around half an hour cleaning and slapping my way, desperately towards the top of this fridge hugging fest. However, with the dog looking on questioningly, i attempted to clamp my right heel on to the hanging column and found this was the secret. From this stable position i could pop to the flatties on top.
I finished the day climbing Coconut Mono (6b) without the old, now broken hold, which i felt was about 6b+ before spending 15 or 20 minutes figuring out Oaks Roof. This climbs well, but is marred slightly by snappy undercuts. However, its a nice little problem and is given 7a in the guide, but is on as V7 on UKC and suggested to be V5, also on UKC. I felt 6c+/7a in the way i did it so there!


Lovely place, easy walk in - i will go back again before the summer comes and the bracken makes the place generally unpleasant! Go to it, it's a cracking little place. Train at 'Boro wall and 'send' at Clemmitts. Buzzing.
   

The White Scoop and Waves of Inspiration

Franco and I have enjoyed developing the moors over the last couple of years and towards the back end of the summer managed to 'put up', two of our self-appointed best routes. My addition was the very bold, break-away line from 'Central Crack' (E2) which i headpointed over two days and decided on a grade of E7 6b***. Franco, over the same time period cleaned up and climbed a slabby wall, featuring beautiful scallops from the quarrying. This dynamic and arguably morphological climb was grade E7 6c/7a*** with Franco deciding on 6c after some musing.

We were both fairly confident about the grades and quality of our lines and looked forward to someone repeating them. In October, local strong-man Richard Waterton headed out of a pleasant day shunting the lines and got in touch to seemingly confirm their quality and grades. This was a pleasant surprise and the dialogue can be seen on Franco's Blog: http://www.francocookson-climbing.blogspot.com/2012/02/bit-of-moors-grading-re-jig.html.

Dave Warburton on the F.A of 'The White Scoop'

The take home comments were that the franco's Waves was indeed around E7 6c** and around slabby F7b+. He suggested that the climbing was very good on excellent rock.
While Richard commented that my style on The White Scoop was indeed worth around E7*/**, however he questioned whether it was not worth climbing higher and placing gear off a left hand crimp to create a 'less suicidal' climb at around E6 6b. Also suggesting the climb was spoilt by sandy rock at the start. Basically questioning if 3*'s were applicable. However, it would seem these days that 3* has lost its 'national significance' meaning and would appear to reside with 'area classics' - We wouldn't want to the Moors to be left behind in the star-revolution!

"Going back to placing gear in the crack - when I top roped the route I followed the same line that you did (I didn't try traversing left higher up or anything) - my point was that I didn't think you'd have to climb up and down the crack to place a higher runner, but might instead be able to do this by reaching right off a reasonable crimp on the wall left of the crack, before moving left and doing the crux sequence up into the scoop. I didn't however test this out as I was busy trying not to fall off!"

Dave Warburton on the F.A of 'The White Scoop'

I would suggest that any future ascentionists check the top out is clean and enjoy it in any style they like. A moderately high runner at E6 or at the top of the crack at E5? to make a safe and excellent pitch, which i must admit crossed my mind but decided the FA was best done in the style i did it in... As i say, go and enjoy it in any style you like!

Richard didn't say any of the other lines were crap either! Except that 'Barry' the E4 on the largest boulder was extremely poor rock quality, which i must admit, i totally agree with. You'll be able to find a better E4 on the walls of the quarry somewhere, i'm sure!

Franco on the F.A of 'Waves of Inspiration'

Back end of '11

An uneventful year-ender in regards to keeping my blog updated, however i managed to achieve a few things that were pleasing for me. After my love-affair with Hawkcliffe, i lost interest in trad/headpointing as the weather degenerated and the dissertation/work mounted up.

I turned my attention to bouldering therefore and also taking advantage of the cheap rates at Leeds Wall to 'see if i could get strong', as i am aware i am not particularly strong in any way, shape or form. I think the highlight of this 2 month period was certainly Demon Wall Roof (Font7a+)... which is a bit disappointing when i think about it now... however, i enjoyed the moves after struggling to manage the final move, after the 'crux'.

The low point was repeatedly failing on the final move of  'Green Wing' (Font 7b). The final move is not the crux,  not even close, but i couldn't manage to do anything other than mashing my hand on the sharp lip of the JUG! Never mind, i take some sort of comfort in 'cruising' the moves up the final slap and V8 is certainly not really my territory.

The year ended properly with the discovery of North Sea Crag X. An east facing series of buttresses which look like they will provide some excellent trad routes. Currently established after our brief foray are two routes; an excellent corner crack which is well protected and certainly slightly awkward (HVS 5b**) and a highball arete (Font7a+) that leads to the upper buttress which hosts some outrageous looking lines. Stoked. Get in touch.

The dissertation is done and the exams are past, so i should be back to climbing after leaving it for 3 weeks. I couldn't believe how bad i felt last night when i popped down the wall. Never mind.

Hawkcliffe finally let's me down...

Rain finally breached the seemingly ever dry defences of Hawkcliffe and when myself and Conor returned, with me being stoked to look at Stepmother Jag - E4, Call of the Curlew - E4, Driveby or Shamrock (E6's) i was pretty disappointed to discover the crag was damp.

I had a quick look at the direct finish to Woodland Ecology, which looks possible but hard so i changed my attentions to a sort of 'alternate finish' to Woodland Ecology itself as it tackled the driest section of crag. I'd actually already soloed the top 'new' bit the day previous while there on my own, but i returned today to lead it properly - i prefer to do FA's with someone else.

Baisically, it follows Woodland Ecology to the gear and then makes tricky moves up to the base of an obvious unclimbed scoop. From here, it is possible to reach out right and finish for the final move of Woodland Ecology baiscally avoiding the large ledge and adding several more (i thought) good moves on this great slabby wall. Decided it was E4 6a* as the moves and positions are good even if it is a tad eliminate. The moves are similar but more sustained than Woodland Ecology and the gear is closeby but i wouldn't call it perfect.

Anyway, made up for a damp day at the crag - i might leave it til next year now and go elsewhere? Though, perhaps i should make the most of Blood on the Shamrock being clean... though i haven't the foggiest how to shunt it safely and i don't think i'm good enough to flash it? We'll see...

Hawkcliffe revisited... Woodland Ecology & Flame Arete

My wednesday day off was put to good use with a return to Hawkcliffe, hoping to find it dry after last nights rain. It was.
Arriving at Emerald Buttress i wanted to do Woodland Ecology and Huw was keen to follow up that or Ginny Greenteeth or whatever. I decided i wanted to do Woodland, repeating the start (which is the same as Ginny) to the gear and then right to the Arete. I repeated the start with ease and then placed some gear but failed to head right on scrittly holds, so i backed off and abseiled down to clean the holds i could reach... And gave it another go. This time i found the clean holds a nicer crimping proposition and it make the experience much easier, however i still needed a slight footslip to jolt me with adrenaline which allowed me to reach blindly around the corner, into the slightly dirty scoop and then, the scrittly and airy ledge - it's clean now!!!. The finishing arete of Blood on the Shamrock providing a beautiful finish... Have to do Blood on the Shamrock now!

Woodland is an odd one, its sooo much easier than Ginny Greenteeth its amazing they have the same grade. E4 5c and E6 6a seem to be more representative of the routes, although i muddled around on Woodland Ecology, perhaps put off by the grade wondering where the E5 6a bit would be...? That said, i did feel i benefitted a lot from previous doing the start of Ginny Greenteeth, up which it starts, but even so it's a world away from Ginny Greenteeth! Still, a quality little route and well worth doing, it's the easiest of the buttress and provides a good warm up for the bigger challenges that await...

Huw then followed me up and also did Ginny, seeming pretty impressed with the climbing - what a buttress!

We then went over (somehow missing Adam Hughes who was at the crag today too!?) to Flame Arete. This is a terrific, bouldery arete, well protected and with some good moves. E5- 6b-** is a fair reflection of this route which i got after several ground up attempts... Theres some many different holds and sequences i kept getting drawn into different holds and body positions. Doesn't really matter though, cracking arete climb.

Chalk on Driveby - Good effort Adam! Start of this 'Charlie Don't Surf' also chalked which is great - this crag is seeing a proper revival. Class.

The Elevator - Eldwick Quarry

Adi Gill's Eldwick slab first came to my attention with the appearence of a cracking photo on UKC, see below. A pleasant lower wall leads to a cam just above half height backed up a tad lower with a swedge 4. After requesting beta from Adi, he suggested just headpointing the climb as the climbing is quite sequency and this suited me fine, as 1 cam between me and the ground, while repeatedly failing on a 6c move was not what i really wanted while trying to get around half days out due to lots of coursework and the possibility for the singular cam pulling...

Adi Gill on the F.A of Elevator E5/6 6b/c**

Anyway, i had linked the climb with Conor in a quick flash before rain came so this set back the date to get on it again, to today. Returning with Huw and Ewan i was stoked and the baking sun was pleasant, though a little to warm perhaps. I decided to 'quickly' check the moves and gear before doing it. Unfortunately i found the move at the top much harder than i remembered, falling off the slap to the top break.

However, i eventually decided that it was ok and i made the cool series of moves up to the swedge and cam. Rockover out right to a thin crack and then make a short series of right to left reorganisation of feet, prise the elevator doors open and then pop to the break. I placed the size 5 friend and then decided to traverse the break right, rather than clip a preplaced loweroff. No reason either way, i wanted to top out properly, but that top rock is rank.

Excellent route, short lived and flashable with the beta - hard onsight mind you! Ask you are interested for beta or just watch the video below :-)

Edit: As for the grade, i am unsure. At the time i felt it was probably E5 6c, similar in someways to Mane Vision on the Moors (E4 6b). However, recent ascent suggested E5 6b. I am interested in this as i'd have felt a mid 6b move in this situation would be E4, but perhaps a top end 6b would be E5. However, i found the route very cruxy and the dynamic nature of the move, for me, suggested 6b (solid) to me... regardless, E5 i think it will settle at and you can take your pick - E5 6c describes the nature of the moves and position in regard to gear, even if the move isn't actually THAT hard... 

Anyway, quality climb which is well worth seeking out and there is a cool Font 6c to 7a-ish? finger crack in the quarrybay to the right of The Elevator, called Comply or Die. Definately easier if it is clean and not damp/ferny!

Ginny Greenteeth - Hawkcliffe

I quite like Hawkcliffe, its sort of forgotten but somehow the lines aren't that dirty and the climbing is amazing. I had always noticed 'Ginny Greenteeth' in the guide and after rapping down it on my last visit, knew that an onsight was off the cards for me.

I returned today, lonely, to have a quick play with the plan of giving it a quick shunt and realising it was hard and bold and then doing something else. However, i found the climbing excellent and wanted to be able to revel in a clean ascent.

The crag (that i could see) seemed dry after the nights light rain and i was delighted to see Emerald Buttress (and what a buttress it is) looked reasonably clean and totally dry. After setting up a shunt line and giving a 10 or 15 minute chalk and clean i flashed (on shunt) up to the really cool balance stand up just below the crux, near the 'arete'. The start is tricky and a bit bold - i would advise taking a pad, then you make moves past 'gear slots' which i thought looked shit (until i found the ACTUAL gear slot which is rather good!)

By this time i had already set my heart on climbing the line today and i spent the best part of an hour i think? or so figuring how to make the top mantleshelf/reach/horrorshow more bomber. Eventually, my beta was to stand in the hands off chillout (which is a must just before) and let my fingers dry out!
From here a crimpy pull and poor feet lead to a sloper then a slight readjustment to a good hold and highfoot. Move right to a good hold to top out, don't try to go direct.

Ginny Greenteeth - Picture courtesy of 'Radclimb.com' taken from

http://radclimb.com/photo_album.0.html.1.html

Cool little website with some good photos, historical stuff and quality anecdotes - take a look!

I tried the line as a oner, then again and decided it was worth a punt but i and i'm happy to admit it, decided to leave a hanging line of the top section... just in case.

Setting off, the intial moves felt easier without a shunt and i quickly found myself just below the 'chill out'. A terrific move (i think the move that made me want to solo the line actually) utilising a thumb sprag (not like the photo!) allows me to arrange my feet so i can take my hands off. I chilled here for what felt like ages but might only have been a minute or two. Hands up to the crimpy parts of ledges above and then VERY specific feet (i found that if i didn't have the bang on it didn't work for the next move - scary shit!) i was really pulling hard to the sloper that allows a slight piano-play to the better nubbin. It's not over though, as the left foot is now ready to pop off the overhung crimp but a right foot pushed against a small flake allows more balance and santuary. A couple of moves right (around a metre) from the slopey ledge leads to a good hold and footholds out right and an ok top out into grass.

What a route. What a buttress. But what about the grade... E5 6a*** is bold 6a but i felt there was a 6a move low down then sustained 5c up to the cool reach seen in the photo. This move is probs 6a (especially if you do it like that!) and i thought the top was hard, still 6a, but hard.
The gear is a funny one. I turned up today to solo the line as i had previously rapped down and seen some shitty pockets and Nik Jennings had soloed the line so i decided it was probs just a solo... however i totally missed the good rock slot about a half metre lower than the shitty pockets until i found it while shunting... The problem is i'm not convinced the gear will keep you off the deck from the top crux... A running belayer will, but i usually find you end up going further than you think from rope stretch, belayer pull etc etc...

For what it's worth - i think it's tricky to read, the crux is at the top, you're facing a long fall or potential deck (maybe softened by rope stretch) and it's not a path up to that point. E6 6a+*** for my money, but it might feel a bit nicer with gear and a fellow climber in the vicinity, perhaps?

But regardless, it's an amazing climb, 10 minutes from the road. Convienient to get to, scramble up to and set up a abseil on and the climbing is quality. The buttress isn't that dirty, it seems to take sod all seepage. I'd recommend a pad or two for the start, you may as well! I'd also recommend the gear, which if i had seen last visit i wouldn't have come back today on my own. I would have still headpointed it though...

I want to get good enough to onsight/flash climbs like this, so this was a brilliant little education for me.