Wednesday, 19 October 2011

The Elevator - Eldwick Quarry

Adi Gill's Eldwick slab first came to my attention with the appearence of a cracking photo on UKC, see below. A pleasant lower wall leads to a cam just above half height backed up a tad lower with a swedge 4. After requesting beta from Adi, he suggested just headpointing the climb as the climbing is quite sequency and this suited me fine, as 1 cam between me and the ground, while repeatedly failing on a 6c move was not what i really wanted while trying to get around half days out due to lots of coursework and the possibility for the singular cam pulling...

Adi Gill on the F.A of Elevator E5/6 6b/c**

Anyway, i had linked the climb with Conor in a quick flash before rain came so this set back the date to get on it again, to today. Returning with Huw and Ewan i was stoked and the baking sun was pleasant, though a little to warm perhaps. I decided to 'quickly' check the moves and gear before doing it. Unfortunately i found the move at the top much harder than i remembered, falling off the slap to the top break.

However, i eventually decided that it was ok and i made the cool series of moves up to the swedge and cam. Rockover out right to a thin crack and then make a short series of right to left reorganisation of feet, prise the elevator doors open and then pop to the break. I placed the size 5 friend and then decided to traverse the break right, rather than clip a preplaced loweroff. No reason either way, i wanted to top out properly, but that top rock is rank.

Excellent route, short lived and flashable with the beta - hard onsight mind you! Ask you are interested for beta or just watch the video below :-)

Edit: As for the grade, i am unsure. At the time i felt it was probably E5 6c, similar in someways to Mane Vision on the Moors (E4 6b). However, recent ascent suggested E5 6b. I am interested in this as i'd have felt a mid 6b move in this situation would be E4, but perhaps a top end 6b would be E5. However, i found the route very cruxy and the dynamic nature of the move, for me, suggested 6b (solid) to me... regardless, E5 i think it will settle at and you can take your pick - E5 6c describes the nature of the moves and position in regard to gear, even if the move isn't actually THAT hard... 

Anyway, quality climb which is well worth seeking out and there is a cool Font 6c to 7a-ish? finger crack in the quarrybay to the right of The Elevator, called Comply or Die. Definately easier if it is clean and not damp/ferny!

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