Summer 2008 - From bad to worse

On the way up the Ben. Ian was soo excited, but he wanted a picture with some Deer first!
Not particularly flattering, but the memories from Smiths Route will last forever!
Ian Soloing 'Inverted V' at Stanage. This seemed very impressive at the time, i was envious!
Again, not exactly flattering, but a hell of a trip and a very good laugh!
Just before Ian fell a fair distance after 'giving up' on the wet upper cracks. Again i was amazed with his climbing

What a fcking, shite summer this has been. Not only has the weather been awful, but my friends have been at the Alps climbing amazing routes while i was left in the UK unable to go aswell! However, as you may have heard a friend of mine, Ian Jackson tragically died in the Alps while climbing. This truly has been a summer of unrivalled sadness. Ian was a good lad, a heck of a climber and he made an impression to everyone he met. The thread on UKC after his death, proves this. He will be missed by everyone that knew him and his loss will be felt, probably forever.

My Summer - 2008

The soloing trip to the Lakes kept me contented for the first few weeks, but i became restless. Desperate for good weather and a new crag i started to look at even more esoteric venues that were easily reachable. Luckily one evening Franco's dad, Neil decided that he was able to go climbing, this was much appreiciated and we went to the nearby safe-bet of Camp Hill. There Neil ascended the good Severe and VS that he wanted and made a determined attempt to second me on the very nice HVS called 'Cling Wrap', something he is going to lead in the future and something i think he will have no problem in completing.

I also, decided that it was time to try 'Ace of Winds', this amazing looking climb has put me off several times, for one because it doesn't LOOK HVS and two, because i had to downclimb from the blank wall at half height!

This time however, i managed to reach the loose blocks. I arranged some decent protection then made a lo-o-ong reach to the top. There was nothing but sloping rock; on Grit this would have been enough, but Camp Hill isn't quite Grit. It's alot courser than the rock at Scugdale or Wainstones, but it didn't have the required friction. I eventually managed to get a high foot lockoff in a small crack under the roof and a blind reach around the roof to, luckily a good lip on the top. This was enough. I topped out on a great route, one that has repelled me two or three times, but i was right, it doesn't look HVS and it isn't!

The next day, i dragged budding climber, Matthew 'Mini' Cooper from Sleights along for a 'introduction' to rock climbing. We spent the day looking at rope technique, climbing technique and placing gear. He is a quick learner and i soon had him seconding me up routes and soloing some easy safe lines. He then lead, albeit dogged 'Longbow' but he was happy enough and i was ecstatic with what he had achieved. I then, asked if he would do me a favour and take a photo or two of me on a line i was yet to try. 'Pinnacle Face' HVS 5c, just looks stupid. The start is definitely 5c or harder and then the upper wall is difficult to protect and not ALOT easier. The guide also says 'use the right arete, if you must!' Personally, if you can't use the right arete, then it is totally eliminate as it is making you do very unnatural moves! Anyhow, the exposure was nice, but it wasn't the line i was hoping for!

Rejuvinated, with the recent improvement in weather i requested that Lewis would come to Eston Nab. Hardly Esoteric in the sense of the word, with it's views across Teesside and it's well used footpath above, popular with the local inhabitance. Parking at the Cross Keys on the A171, (to avoid parking in Eston!) we walked across and i got my first glipse of Eston Nab. "Oh well, it doesn't look too bad" i said, in fact i actually found the backdrop of Teesside an interesting change from Rolling moorland. The dockyards were certainly a better setting than a large group of houses.

The climbing was a tad dissapointing, i was hoping for higher buttresses. Luckily, the trip wasn't a waste, as i soloed alot of lines and then lead a VERY good HVS called, 'The Other'. This line takes a corner crack to a small ledge, then gear can be arranged up some criss-crossing cracks before undercutting a roof and traversing rightwards to allow a pull over to the top. Immense!

Lewis, didn't fancy it. I don't know why he did the hard bit reaching the roof the top section was the reward, but i lowered him anyway.

It was from about 1pm that things got bad. We walked to the monument and i climbed the 'back wall' at E1. Then the air became cooler and then rain drops started, we quickly set off for the car, but we were caught in a heavy rain storm. From this day onward, the summer has been wet, miserable and quite frankly woeful.

A lonely Summer - Soloing

Unable to commit to a trip to the Alps this summer, due to my 'not quite right' knee, i have been left in the UK, while all the other climbers in the area, including Franco have gone to the continent. Lewis has remained, but i feel he will not have the commitment to journey here, there and everywhere and pay for it! Matthew (mini) Cooper, is a longshot as he is a busy person with commitments over climbing, which is fair enough but i hope to take him climbing in the next few weeks. So as a last resort, hopefully Shaun will be around to go climbing with but as yet i have not received an Email.
The weekend just gone, saw me and mum travel to the lakes to see family. This was quite a nice treat and it allowed me to solo some lines that i probably otherwise would have struggled to have gotten around to. The first evening, i travelled to 'Durple Gill' that small slate quarry near Patterdale and soloed the lines me and Franco established there and also a new direct variant, called 'Stalion Twister', due to the Deep Purple/Stormbringer theme. However, i appear to have lost my Belay plate here as well, though i am unsure as to how?!
The next day was a rest day as i felt a tad undertheweather and it was VERY hot, but the following day Flynn (dog) and I raced up Grisedale and i set about soloing the classic routes there, such as 'Sobrenada' Vs 4c**. This is a terrific route, though i climbed this and it's direct finish with a hanging rope, just in case!
I then worked 'Pericles' HVS 5a* before soloing it, this felt about E1 5a soloing, but a very nice route all the same. Similarly, the route at the right of the crag called, 'Morning Slab' which follows a nice scoop up a buttress, given HVS 4c** i decided it was probably just as well onsight soloing it, but i saw two or three gear placements, including one where i thought the crux was! Even so, the ascent i think merited 5a and probably E1 5a** at that!
I'll be happy if the holidays carry on with ascents such as these, i don't mind reducing my grade, if it allows me to climb such nice routes.
Next trip, the East Pennines, to do some Gritstone soloing at spots such as Goldsborough! (I hope)

Whitestone Traverse - E2/3 5c A1***

Firstly what an amazing place, unlike anywhere i've ever been or seen before. The limestone pushes up for about 40metres and is uniquely architectured with gigantic cracks, overhanging caves and 'doggers', which are large concretions which are quite sort-after, as they provide the only really bomber holds!

The venue, as stated in the guidebook is not for beginners, children or pets. On arrival, you can understand why. The cliffe is loose, forboding and is defended by a dense barrier of undergrowth, mainly (man-eating) nettles and lacerating thorns, as well as seriously dangerous pit falls and chasms!. This was my first trip to Whitestone and it was pretty much exactly how i imagined it, perhaps slightly more solid!

We abseiled down and walked through the undergrowth to the start of the traverse, (a traverse called, 'Chameleon' no doubt due to it's constantly changing behaviour!) steady climbing at first for the main part, except from the '4c' 3rd pitch, which was overhanging, pumpy and sparsly protected...E1 4c? The next corner was a nice pitch, probably the easiest that we did, but this still had an unprotected 10 metre runout with a grassy mantle on to a ledge.

I elected to belay here, which was a mistake. It was a good idea as it much reduced rope drag and meant franco was right next to the belay on the awkward mantle, but it was a bad choice (unbeknown to me) because it meant i'd get the next '4c' pitch.
From the tree about 40 metres futher along the cliffe, i set off on this pitch, '25metres of 4c' which climbed along to an arete then pulled around it to a ledge. I set off, immediately a hold snapped, but i held on and put a sling runner on one of the trees branches. I then made the rather strenuous moves to the arete. I pulled to gain the arete. Next thing my heart was racing, tiny bits of limestone shrapnel were bombaring me and i realised that my hold had snapped, again i had managed to hold on, but i flashed a look at Franco, and my tree runner and decided whether it would be better to jump off in to the chasm below (which you couldn't see the bottom of) or to try and climb the route and increase the runout. I elected for the latter and made a last ditch, whale on to the tiny ledge around the arete. The whale itself must have taken a minute or two, as i couldn't make any unbalanced moves due to the size of the shelf, i was fully aware that a slip backwards would have been disasterous.

Luckily, the following pitches were much safer and more enjoyable. The 'large slab' area of Whitestone looks impressive and Franco decided he wanted to climb this route as one push. He did placing two runners! over the 40m slab. I followed him up along the slab in the glorious sun to what has to be the best belay i have been on. The two peg's on 'The Leash' provided a belay well above the trees, about 10 metres below the top of Whitestone, with views into the Vale of York i was happy to stand with my calf's burning on the slab.
The next sections were rather poor. Franco managed to drop his belay plate, but rather than give up, he downclimbed 30m to the base, found it then managed to reascend the cliffe on what looked to be 5a/5b territory? We then climbed around to the large, dead tree on 'Gamin' and abseiled to 'the ledge from which the 5a pitch could be taken'. This wasn't any ordinary 5a pitch though, the loose rock and crap gear meant Franco had the unenviable task of attempting to climb this pitch safely, something he did very well but the poor gear and lack of promised peg belays meant franco abbed off and i downclimbed a very useful but bendy tree from the ledge.
Lewis, who had been taking photos and acting as back up did a superb job and after reclaiming lost gear such as the nut i dropped on the 6th pitch and the gear left in the 5a pitch we journeyed back to the car to drive to Peak Scar and bivvy as this was the next days climbing venue!
We had learned alot, and felt we'd given the traverse a good go, the 9 hours spent on the route taught us much about our climbing and partnership. It's given E2 5c A1 ***, but we didn't get to the Aid pitch, which we intended to try and free climb, but even so i felt like i'd been climbing E2 all day, we thought that E2 5a would have been a much more realistic grade for what we did!! A superb route, 283m of sustained climbing on loose, friable rock and with dodgey protection or at least questionable, such as the gas pipe runner on the Slab pitch!
One to return to, even if next time Franco and luke try it and i'll take pictures!

Classic's

Now im driving, getting from A to B is alot easier and Franco and i have been to quite a few crags where perfect conditions a must and recently, the conditions have been perfect!

We returned to Raven's Scar, this time WITH a rope! so we were all geared up to tackle the classic E2 ticks of Satchmo and Fever Pitch. I had wanted to do Stardust and Screwed as well, but this didn't happen.

Satchmo fell after abit of hard work, the initial crack is quite thin and hardwork, but then a path leads to a good rest below the leftward slanting layback crack into a small groove. I stepped up and put a good nut in an old peg scar and then proceeded to layback uptowards the groove. I had a few anxious moments, as the upper crack was a tad greasy but it all went to plan and i topped out without incident - a fine route and an obvious strong line. Get on it!

We then walked over to Fever Pitch, apparently bold Franco led it first and got a good rack of friends in, this allowed the climbing to be enjoyed as the pitch was well protected. A great climb with longish reaches between good holds and a short but positive pocket pulling section in the middle. The top out sequence was awkward but this was a good finish to a superb climb.

Me on Fever Pitch - E2

After our sucesses here, we had most of the evening left so we decided to drive to High Crag and Tarn Hole for a look. Unfortunately the walk in was MUCH longer than expected and High Crag was midgy heaven, we were defeated so we went home as it was now getting late. Certainly a pair of crags to come back to though, especially for 'Warrior -E2' which is the large groove behind Franco in the picture.

Tuesday night was the Brimham meet with the CMC, however getting to Brimham after college just seemed abit silly really, plus i had to take my mum to Northallerton train station. So we elected to meet up at Scugdale. Luke Hunt, Lewis, Franco and I set about soloing the lovely buttresses of Scugdale 'popular' (Scot's). We got Lewis up some lines and then Luke climbed the classic 'Eve, Right Hand' which Franco and I prompty soloed as well.

After a warm down here, on routes such as Pluto Variant - we journied to Barker's as Luke and I WANTED the fantastic 'New Dimensions'! Franco soloed it first while i took a video of him then i tried it, but with little confidence in my ascent i didnt request a video....i was gutted when i topped out!

Luke then climbed the line and we rejoined below 'Sculptured Wall'. Luke climbed the route with ease and then Franco tried it but didn't complete it as he was feeling abit 'weird'. I climbed the line with a few anxious moments but ultimately, the route was straightforward and stepping right onto the front of the buttress was 'nicely exposed'.

We did some warm down routes and i tried in vein to stop Lewis backing off routes he couldn't get first time! I failed, but next time i will get him up 'The Cleft'!

It was now very late 10.30ish so we dashed back to the car and drove back to Castleton where i dropped everyone off. I then had a mini epic as when Franco tried to close the car boot. The latch didnt work. He tried and failed so i just drove down and tried to fix it myself....i failed. Unfortunately failure wasn't an option as the battery would have died with the car internal lights on, so i set to work dismantelling the locking mechanism. I succeeded and i was very happy, i updated my logbook and then went to bed at nearly 1am, very knackered.

First Lakes trip of '08 and the wonders of 'Automobiles'

After all Franco's climbing recently, i was prepared to travel to the lakes regardless of weather just so i was away from the Moors and the thought of College, which was in a couple of days. I travelled over with Neil Cookson to pick Franco up from Penrith train station then we shot over to the CMC climbing hut and then walked to Eagle Crag (Grisedale) to climb 'Kestrel Wall' which was the plan for Neil for his Birthday and the reason we were in the Lakes.

Neil on the Classic, 'Kestral Wall'

After he climbed this however, Franco and I embarked on 'Horse Power' on the Upper Tier. I climbed 'Pericles' to the Upper tier, this contained some good, if slightly committing 4c climbing up a groove but it was a good warm up for the E2. After a bit of a faff, we both climbed the route on lead as i climbed up first but required a OO friend, so Franco climbed it with the friend and did it, the highlight of the route being a boldish swing right on a good hold then rocking over onto a large 'flake' style block. A first E2 in the Lakes.

The Next day we ventured to Borrowdale and after many disagreements, (based around going to 'Black Crag' for Prana , 'Eagle Crag (Borrowdale)', 'Sergeant Slabs' for Asphasia or 'Bleak How') we decided Eagle Crag was the way forward, lured by the plethora of ***'ed E2's and E3's! However, see soon found that this classic crag was exactly that, a classic crag. I looked as though climbing had not been done here for decades! We set off up 'Post Mortem' and after a VERY sketchy, green, vegetated and loose 5a first pitch we had me on the edge all the way with a crux overhanging groove at the top. I got to the ledge. How could 5a feel as bad as that! I was thoroughly exhausted and very very dirty. I brought Franco up and we laughed at how 'epic' it was! Unfortunately, Franco couldn't climb the 5c overhanging offwidth and i wasn't feeling up to it at all, seeing as Franco is climbing so much better than me at the moment. We abbed off. There was alot of bird activity around the otherside of the crag, we thought they were Eagles, but they were probably actually Peregines after we saw them 'swooping' but im no Ornothologist!Franco on the Horrific Offwidth

After this setback and a lot of time lost (but not wasted!) we walked around the hill to Bleak How, where due to time issues we climbed 'Psyched Out' and 'Bleak How Eliminate' which were only 20m which is abit tame for the Lakes but needs must. It meant we could push ourselves.
Franco on 'Bleak How Eliminate'
Franco and I climbed Psyched Out and then Franco climbed the Eliminate. A very good effort and i really fancied a crack at it! but it was too late i seconded him up and we ran down to get a lift. A good day was had in actual fact and we know that the area is CERTAINLY worth another visit.The Aptly named, Raven's Scar

We returned to the Moors, on the saturday as the weather system moved from the East to the West so we did a superb job in avoiding bad climbing conditions. Me and Franco then decided a trip to Raven's Scar was in order. I have now passed my driving test so i drove to Hasty Bank and we set off for Raven's Scar... unfortuntely, we didn't have a rope as confusion after the lakes trip had left us Ropeless. We however, undeterred soloed some classic easier stuff at Raven's Scar and a greasy, scary E1. After a few videos of classic lines we walked to Wainstones where there were some climbers who nicely lent us a spare rope, which Franco used to dispatch Ali Baba -E2, again for the 7th time?!

Some 'trippy' camera trick Franco managed. A few more solos and then i drove home to Neil's 'birthday meet' in the Downe Arms. A decent Saturday was had and the weather was actually superb!

Wales - Slate, Slate, Slate.

Franco and I travelled down to Wales, with Franco's parent's who were going to visit a friend in the area. We looked at the climbing around Llanberis and obviously knew there was PLENTY to do. We decided to try and divide our time between 'the Pass' and the Welsh Slate Quarries, Franco had his eye on a few hard lines. However, during the 4 days the weather was VERY changeable and we never did get up 'the Pass', still a good time was had around the Quarries climbing some very nice lines!

Bus Stop Quarry

We got to Wales on Saturday around mid afternoon and ventured up to 'Bus Stop Quarry' which my guidebook had 3 routes in, we decided that people would probably be there with a guide. There were and our first route on Slate was 'Equinox' - VS 4c. We climbed the route Solo, finish right, which is actually the line of the HVS, but it looked easier and more likely to be the route at the time. We then got the ropes out and climbed a Sport route (a first for me) called 'Whizz Bang' which we didn't know the grade of, it was hard work; crimpy and reachy and i rested and it turned out to be F6c.

Me on Equinox At this point, i knew i didn't really like Slate my shoes weren't sticking as well on the edges as well as Franco's Shoes, so when we left 'Bus Stop' to 'Dali's Hole' i just belayed Franco on a couple of routes, namely 'Launching Pad' - E1 5b, however Franco was unaware that a siderunner could be put in the crack to the right, so his ascent probably deserves E2.

The Bizzare Lake, at Dali's Hole

We then wandered over to Serengeti and bivvyed. It was quite chilly with a gusty wind blowing around and the noise of the Hydroelectric Plant kept me awake for sometime. Next thing it was about 5.30am and it was cold. We got up and Franco climbed 'Seamstress' - VS and 'Seams the Same' - E1/2 in good style and then he soloed the VS twice more before i had to drop a rope down for him when he tried to climb it Barefoot!

Serengeti Slab - Seamstress
We then wandered back to Dali's Hole and Franco climbed 'Holy, Holy, Holy' - E2 and i decided to second him and then lead it the next day, but i did get myself on 'Lauching Pad' - E1 as it looked ok today so far i hadn't really climbing anything so i was feeling abit shit. Then we wandered over, again to Bus Stop Quarry as we needed to find people with a guide! Franco and I soloed 'Equinox' - VS again and then Franco Led 'Scarlet Runner' - E3/4 which was quite annoying, as i had no chance; it's his kind of climbing though - Crimps and rockovers on small edges!

Anthony on 'Holy, Holy, Holy'
Tonight we slept in a old building, but the wind was knocking slates down and Rat faeces forced us to set my tent up; it didn't rain so i didn't have to dry it which i was happy about. We got up reasonably early and set off to Bus Stop, Franco climbed Equinox again and i talked myself out of a lead of 'Fool's Gold' - E1 i just didn't like the line it took! So we went back to Dali's Hole Again! and i climbed 'Holy, Holy, Holy' - E2 as i had promised myself. We also messed around on a few Sport climbs and then Franco Dogged the E4 called 'The Chiselling' which was a bloody good effort as i couldn't do the first crux so i handed my second to a good climber who was watching with interest, a bloke called Anthony who had just climbed 'Holy...' he enjoyed the route and did well. I was glad i didn't dog my way up on second.
We then searched for a place to bivvy, and once found decided a good meal at Pete's Eat's was in order, so we walked down and got LOADS of food and PINT'S of tea! - Great stuff!
We bivvyied in a small three sided roofed building, that night the rain began quite heavily and it was the stormiest night so far, the structure was good but it couldn't keep out the storm we got quite wet and cold. Ah... the joys of Bivvying!

We got up, cold and tired and walked down to Pete's for tea! a good warm up and the weather now retreating we headed to Vivian Quarry, reckoning that it would be quiet up there seeing as the weather had been miserable. It was quiet so we jumped on 'Comes The Dervish' Franco took a while on it but climbed it Clean and i was highly impressed. I not liking slate was left to decide whether or not to 'lose my Onsight' or try it on lead, which i'd have probably fallen off! I decided i'd rather Second Franco clean than Dog my way up on lead. I did second him cleanly and thoroughly enjoyed it, i don;t think i would have if i'd dogged my way up or backed off!

Comes the Dervish - Vivian Quarry
I made sure though, that before we left Wales, i did one thing. We walked over to Bus Stop and i got on 'Fools Gold' straight away, the crux is VERY well protected and i ended up running it out to the top after placing a cam from the creaky ledge. I very nice route and i felt i'd given Slate a good go, even if i don't like climbing on it!
Tonight was our best nights sleep, we slept under a good roof with a clean floor and even though it rained it was warm and dry. We went home feeling tired but having done alot of good climbing, Franco however wasn't finished, he was meeting Jack from Harrogate to climb at Brimham before heading to the Peak for a week, i was left to go home to study for Chemistry and Environmental Science A levels, ah well....

Old Haunts

Franco and I returned to Captain Cook crags, to visit the areas we had previously not paid attention to, such as the 'greener' end of Cooks Quarry and also it would be my first visit to Cockshaw hill, reputed to have the worst rock quality of any crag in the guide/the Moors.

We climbed for a good 2 hours on 'The Nose' which has a good concentration of harder routes which are bold in character, being a bit too big to solo but with no gear meaning a lead is out of the question really. We managed to gibber up 'The Nose - E2 5b' but decided to leave and seekout Cockshaw Hill, before we left the crag.

We arrived at Cockshaw with about 40-50 minutes before our pickup, so i raced around trying to climb all the routes i could, starting with the nice HVS solos at the left end of the crag and then a gibbering solo up 'Cut and Run - E1 5c'. I then got to work on the 3 E2's that are all in the same place! the best line being 'Morning Wall - E2 5c' which takes a flake crack set in a small corner, the crux is low, and i luckily got it without much problem, i couldn't however, repeat this feat.

Franco then turned his attention to 'Mind Release - E2 6a' a line he had previously thought 'abit mad' but we dispatched the line after a couple of goes each, the rock quality is questionable on the middle section but the climbing is good, reachy and strenuous, after this we enjoyed the sunset and then walked back to the car park.

This was a much more productive day than the last time we journeyed to 'Esoterica'. A few weeks back we went to Esklets and the strong wind, light rain and overall 'inability' to climb, so this is what we do when were bored at crags.