Wednesday, 11 June 2008


Now im driving, getting from A to B is alot easier and Franco and i have been to quite a few crags where perfect conditions a must and recently, the conditions have been perfect!
We returned to Raven's Scar, this time WITH a rope! so we were all geared up to tackle the classic E2 ticks of Satchmo and Fever Pitch. I had wanted to do Stardust and Screwed as well, but this didn't happen.
Satchmo fell after abit of hard work, the initial crack is quite thin and hardwork, but then a path leads to a good rest below the leftward slanting layback crack into a small groove. I stepped up and put a good nut in an old peg scar and then proceeded to layback uptowards the groove. I had a few anxious moments, as the upper crack was a tad greasy but it all went to plan and i topped out without incident - a fine route and an obvious strong line. Get on it!
We then walked over to Fever Pitch, apparently bold Franco led it first and got a good rack of friends in, this allowed the climbing to be enjoyed as the pitch was well protected. A great climb with longish reaches between good holds and a short but positive pocket pulling section in the middle. The top out sequence was awkward but this was a good finish to a superb climb.
Me on Fever Pitch - E2
After our sucesses here, we had most of the evening left so we decided to drive to High Crag and Tarn Hole for a look. Unfortunately the walk in was MUCH longer than expected and High Crag was midgy heaven, we were defeated so we went home as it was now getting late. Certainly a pair of crags to come back to though, especially for 'Warrior -E2' which is the large groove behind Franco in the picture.
Tuesday night was the Brimham meet with the CMC, however getting to Brimham after college just seemed abit silly really, plus i had to take my mum to Northallerton train station. So we elected to meet up at Scugdale. Luke Hunt, Lewis, Franco and I set about soloing the lovely buttresses of Scugdale 'popular' (Scot's). We got Lewis up some lines and then Luke climbed the classic 'Eve, Right Hand' which Franco and I prompty soloed as well.
After a warm down here, on routes such as Pluto Variant - we journied to Barker's as Luke and I WANTED the fantastic 'New Dimensions'! Franco soloed it first while i took a video of him then i tried it, but with little confidence in my ascent i didnt request a video....i was gutted when i topped out!
Luke then climbed the line and we rejoined below 'Sculptured Wall'. Luke climbed the route with ease and then Franco tried it but didn't complete it as he was feeling abit 'weird'. I climbed the line with a few anxious moments but ultimately, the route was straightforward and stepping right onto the front of the buttress was 'nicely exposed'.
We did some warm down routes and i tried in vein to stop Lewis backing off routes he couldn't get first time! I failed, but next time i will get him up 'The Cleft'!
It was now very late 10.30ish so we dashed back to the car and drove back to Castleton where i dropped everyone off. I then had a mini epic as when Franco tried to close the car boot. The latch didnt work. He tried and failed so i just drove down and tried to fix it myself....i failed. Unfortunately failure wasn't an option as the battery would have died with the car internal lights on, so i set to work dismantelling the locking mechanism. I succeeded and i was very happy, i updated my logbook and then went to bed at nearly 1am, very knackered.

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