Sunday, 31 July 2011

Paparazzi Arete - font 7b***

Another trip to Clemmitt's to hopefully and finally tick the brilliant arete problem i had previously done from crouch. I quite quickly managed from sit, the starting move isn't hard and just makes setting up for the crux a bit harder and everything just that little bit more difficult to hold, pushing the grade from Font7a+ to 7b and gaining a * in pure quality.

Unfortunately, i decided i might be able to refine the arete so that it was slightly less 'chancy' when i got on it in the future. I did just this, by messing around with my feet a bit earlier, i could take the weight with my left foot pushing higher, while crimping on a small edge. Normally, i would pop up again with my right hand to a good full pad crimp, but this time i elected to hold my wieght and swing my left hand to said crimp. This, rather unfortuantely, seems to make the move around the nose of the arete much easier, without the need to drop down on the smaller holds and also, you can more easily hold the swing (i.e you don't have to cutloose) but it's better to swing off anyway.

Also did a small, 2 move font 5, which is on the opposite rib to Paparazzi Arete, as seen in the video.

I hope that my method just 'suits me' and that it remains a font 7b. Perhaps i've just got a tad stronger? But i doubt it, i feel my beta reduces the grade significantly! (So i might delete this video in the future :-)

Papparazzi Arete - Clemmitt's Out Boulders. from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.

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