Saturday, 23 July 2011

Danby Bouldering

A quick visit to Danby to check any improvement in cleaning or strength on the FA's at Danby, turned into a bouldering day. The crimpy, hard routes required a warm up and the good 'bloc' positioned in the Ravine area of Danby, provided a nice arete and also a sustained traverse.
Unfortunately, this total lack of concentration on the routes, meant that we were spent after a bit of cleaning, bouldering and what not.

The Hypocrisy of Moose - H7 6c***

Regardless, there are now 2 nice boulder problems at Danby, which would be nice to try if local or may provide adequate warm up for some of the harder problems.

The Arete is a sit-down start. A potentially frustrating start, leads to better holds. A large sidepull, can be avoided to create an eliminate Font 6c, which is very good. With the sidepull, Font 6b+ again worth doing.

The traverse of the obvious break of the boulder is a good one to the get the arms working. Starting low on the right, traverse left towards the Ravine, using cunning footwork and some powerful moves. Enjoyable.

A video illustrating the two problems put up on the Ravine boulder with some other bits and pieces too. Just made for the sake of it:

Bouldering at Danby Crag from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.


The following day, the day before Franco journies to the Alps we decided to return to Clemmitt's, so Franco could 'send' the sit start to Paparazzi Arete (Font 7b***) and i wanted to either do this, or the low, crouching start at Font 7a+**.

Long story short, it took me a few goes, but i eventually sent' the arete from a crouch. I then tried from sit which is ok, the starting move from sit isn't that hard, but it does add an element of fatigue and sweaty fingers to the rest of the arete, which is by far and away the crux moves. Franco had quickly managed the sit-down start, as he knew it was a case of being fresh. All in all it's an excellent arete boulder problem - definately one of the best (if not the best) boulder problem i've done.

We also did a direct, starting as for the arete sit, but making a direct reach up the face and topping out, at font 6b+ or so. A nice evening with Franco and Rebecca.

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