Thursday, 2 September 2010

Le Pinnacle de Choad

Another cracking day at the local crag, Round Crag aka Pinnacle de Choad. Named so, because the pinnacle is wider than it is tall!
Journied back with Andrew (Twig) Harvie in order to 'send' Vampiric Obsession, Francos New Route on the north wall of the block.
I'd done the moves on TR and cleaned the line figuring out the beta so Franco could flash it, which he did. I however couldn't do the climb due to having to meet my parents in Rosedale, on that particular day.
I arranged with Twig to go and i'd settle for Vampiric and he would try 'Fresh Arete' - E5. However, it was warm so we located ourselves on the North wall and quickly got started headpointing Vampiric, it quickly became apparent that Twig was more psyched for this as well, as the dynamic moves of Fresh Arete was going to aggrivate his injured wrist.
In the end, i lead Vampiric after a couple of Top Ropes. I climbed up to the gear via the long reach to the break and installed two cams, 0.5 and 1. Then with these protecting the technical stand up move above, i was quickly at the crux. A reach and a pinch and a left hand slap/snatch into the crimp side pull. Over the top on the tree root, which i had 'backed up' by tieing a rope to it for stability!
If any one is wondering it would be possible to dig off that ledge, but it would dirty the climb to such a degree i think it would be a poor choice!
Great climbing, really enjoyable. Around F7a, with a 6a/6b crux towards the top which the gear in the break wouldn't catch you from. Nice.

After this, i did Fresh Arete again to show Twig and then with a choice between Time Out (E3/4 6a) and Dither (E2 6a), i decided a quick jaunt up Dither was worth 15 minutes of my life.
It looked like a well protected mantle move, but was dirty. I climbed up, placed some gear in the break (which would be better but needs a good clean!) then dropped down for a rest. Boshing up again i mantled over the lip, hands on small sloping pocketty things, i began to slide backwards in the heat. I popped for the top but it was futile and i took a pretty decent fall into space.
Most fun i'd had all day, as i sort of didn't expect the gear to hold (even though it was good!) and i didn't really expect to come off!
Pulled and went again, made the move around the lip and on the slab again, pulling on small irony monos and slippery warm edges, i suddenly found the incut on the Arete. Shite.
E2 6a with that hold, without, no wonder it felt desperate! Nice enough climbing anyway, good for a nice clean fall one of the better no starred routes i've done.

I wasn't too fussed by this, a mixed day of Headpointing a lower end E6 then failing to Onsight a hard E2, means i can headpoint about 3 grades harder than i can onsight, overall (seeing as i onsight E2/3) but mainly installed in my mind that my ability to onsight is shockingly bad! Never mind :-)

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