Thursday, 30 September 2010


Back at Leeds after a reasonably eventful summer hols. I returned in fairly decent spirits hoping to get a few weeks on the Yorks Lime before the autumn hit too hard and i was also quite stoked for getting friendly with the Gritstone...
Unfortunately, the weather was somewhat poor during Freshers week and the Lime seems to have had its summer, so we had two trips to Ilkley and Almscliffe.
I was feeling strongish and confident so i got on 'Sylvia' some E3 to the left of 'Sylveste (E2)' on a small buttress in the Rocky Valley. Unfortunately i didn't give the line much thought and i was soon picking myself up out of the rocky pit from below the climb, with a bleeding but ok leg.

Rather embarrassed about this with the new Leeds Uni climber Heather Florence; i decided seeing as i was geared up i'd do Sylveste again. Unfortunately this didn't go to plan and after totally missing the big hold, slipping off microcrimps at the top, I took a nice whinger with a much lighter belayer in the form of Heather... What a start to the gritstone campaign, it truly is a whack rocktype.
I ran away from Ilkley, glad i hadn't got on Blind Valley(E3+) and that was that.

Almscliffe that Saturday was strange too. I arrived and looked at Western Front. It looks so doable and so it should be it's E3. It was cold and windy though, so i soloed about not actually finishing anything and just downclimbing from cruxs and such - really strange feeling.
I found Conor and asked him to belay me on Great Western (HVS***(*) (Apparently)), seeing as i'd never got around to doing it last year. I climbed up Crack of Doom (VS), then told by Conor to carry on to the top to 'a jug and rest' i did so. I found a pumpy, non jug and got a nut stuck... Then i Anihilated my fore finger knuckle ragging it back out - i currently have a rather large chunk out of it.
I reversed to the traverse and found a beautiful cam slot. Fook sake, i pratted around higher up and then on the traverse line found a much better bit of gear and contrary to many peoples thoughts found the traverse seemingly unpumpy...? Finished up 5* finish, which is a good *** line but not really sure about the jamming, you actually have to go out of your way to jam, but they are nice but nothing to whittle on about 'the best jams on the crag'.

Sean then asked if i fancied doing Yellow Wall (E2) , his 1 remaining un climbed line at the grade at Almscliffe. I didn't know what it was, where it was or anything about it so i belayed him on it and then decided i may as well do it for the craic. It's a good 1 mover, with cams on the right and feet difficult to place. Might have to do Yellow Peril (E4 topout) one day, if i start to find a love from rounded gritstone topouts?

Seemingly ok day ended with me and Sean trying Forgotton Wall (E5), but i quickly discovered the move to be nails (6c) and reversed. Sean had a go and fell off then started to redpoint the crux. He did OK nearly latching the break but hurt his knee, so he lowered and then everyone wanted to leave so i didn't actually have a go at the crux. Never mind, its grit 6c so i wouldn't stand a chance anyway.

Stanage on Saturday, Stoked?, no not really...

1 comment:

Franco Cookson said...

"Back at Leeds after a reasonably eventful summer hols. I returned in fairly decent spirits "