Cringle Moor

It's a shame this crag is north facing, as it has some stunning looking lines. I had wanted to visit for sometime to look at the 'largest roof in Cleveland' which is climbed by an E4. However, when finally seeing this line i was disapointed. In all seriousness, its a great looking line! but it wasn't quite as i imagined. I expected overhanging jamming however its more like a 4metre roof over a corner. Fair do's, its a line i certainly want to do, but whether or not the start crack will ever dry with these crap summers we have, is another issue.

Franco and I decided to solo a couple of routes to warm ourselves up, as the freezing fog was doing its best to wet everything and make us cold. We soloed 'The Voice' a delicate E1 that stops half way up the crag and then climbed 'Tell Chris Cragg's Nowt!' a HVS F.A that we put up on the upper tier. The name originates from the old UKC days, when we made our dislike for Rockfax guides apparent - however, it was all in good humour.

After Franco then, annoyed about not being able to climb 'Wedge Route' set about on a First Free Ascent of 'Terry's Dilema'. The Dilema, was commiting to the overhanging crack off a very poor slopey, filthy ledge. However, the climbing is protectable and you fall into space. As i found out!

Rylstone

This was my first trip to the grit crags of Yorkshire, although i've been to Brown Beck crag and Slipstones, these are most definitely North East crags and don't count as Yorkshire Grit. (After recent events on UKC, i will clarify this. I believe Slipstones is a Moors crag, as it was pioneered by lads from Teesside and it doesn't have the feel of Yorkshire Grit at all. The Definitive guide is also the north East England guide, not the Yorkshire Grit guide. That is my arguement, you don't have to listen!)

I drove down to Rylstone, really really hoping to get a good day on the grit and hoping that my recent lack of climbing wasn't going to be too noticable.

Franco had been once before, with the Ian's and wanted a good day at the crag as his experiences last time were mainly wet and cold.

Looking up from the road i could see the monuments and i got a feeling it would be a good day for us, expecially with it facing north west the sun wasn't going to be too unbareable or reduce the friction.

We arrived at Monument buttress and i looked at 'Monument Crack' (E1) which i decided was probably a very good climb well worth doing. But it also looked like the kind of E1 which can give you are very hard time if you a tad out of practice. I left it alone.

Franco decided to 'warm up' on 'Pocket Battleship' a micro E3 to the right. It looked hideous, pulling on slopers around a bulge and i decided it wasn't for me. Franco persuaded me to climb 'Monument Crack' and i did really like the look of it.

I climbed to the roof and decided i was far too lazy to try and place some gear so i reached the jugs and pulled around the roof. I then 'scraped' my way up the next section to the rest and placed some gear.

No handed rest in the niche was very nice and franco walked around taking some photos. I chalked up and got ready for what i thought was going to be the crux. Electing to jam rather than pull on the side of the crack, i climbed the last section with ease getting lovely 'sinking' jams.

We then walked over to 'Dental Slab'. What a climb this is, seriously if you haven't done it, do it and if you have do it again. Currently loving jamming, i jammed all the horizontal breaks and rocked over onto them to reach the next. I don't know whether this is the way to climb it, but it certainly was enjoyable. The mantle to reach the flutings was good fun solo as well. A classic that definitely failed to disappoint!

We then climbed another couple of crag classics. 'Crazy Diamond' was a route i really wanted to do, due to the fact i like Pink Floyd and Shine on you, Crazy Diamond is such an amazing song and also the line looked challenging. The initially techincalities were quite straightforward and then the upper slab was good fun, standing on pebbles. It did feel abit E3- 5b while on it. (edit, we climbed the wall to the left of the arete)

We then climbed the 'easiest E1 on Yorkshire Grit' which is 'The Hot Line'. I decided to 'Jazz' it up abit so i alternate lead it with Franco, who actually quite liked the look of the route, so i was happy to sit on the big ledge and look at the view while he climbed. :-)

We then climbed Veteren, which was quite bold but at a 'just to say' friendly angle. Very escapable though.

Then over to Poetry in Motion, which was a bit disappointing really. We walked down in the dark and then drove to Harrogate to get a pizza! 2 for 1 in some overpriced shop, which worked out to be.... like buying two pizza's...

I drove home and franco snored, i was impressed with my navigational skills on unfamiliar roads and at night, with headlights (when dipped) which are absolutely shite!

Gehenna

This is a climb that is coverted as one of the best in the region and the fact it was a jamming line made it appealing. This would be a stuggle. UKC logbooks showed that there had been some attempts recently but non of them were clean leads. It certainly sounded like a classic moors sandbag.

We arrived for our first trip to Beacon Scar. I liked the look of the place, certainly need to go back and do Mongol, Tremor and no doubt franco will want Fat Bastards Last Fling, a bold looking E5.

Looking up at Gehenna, i liked the look of it. It was a proper jamming line, a nicely sized crack with very little either side for the feet. It certainly didn't have the 'feel' of getting on a HVS.

The climb starts with a Niche, which you can arrange protection in before exiting it up and leftways, via some rather awkward moves on shallow jams on slightly damp, green soft sandstone.

The jams kept going for longer than i was expecting and i reached the horizontal break after about 7 or 8 jams (i looked like 2 or 3 jams would have got me far enough from the ground!) I placed some gear here as the run out from the niche was too far for comfort and i was tiring.

Luckily, you can rest on a good jam here and after placing a nut and cam i got my final jam, gastoned the crack and reached into the lovely pockets at the top. A truly great climb. Harder than it looks and it looks hard! but funnily enough HVS doesn't seem too bad for it, perhaps E1.

Another moors classic ticked and i was happy that the climb was a struggle. We didnt have enough time for anything else and i was tired anyway, pleased that i felt i could jam. This inspired me to visit yorkshire grit the next day.

End of the Summer

The last week before College, we managed to get across to the lakes for some decent climbing. The weather was reported to be hit and miss so we took our chances. I however felt decidedly ill but it wasn't too bad.
On route we stopped off at Healheugh and also Lamb Hill Quarry. The former provided some good gritstone cragging in a remote setting which was quite a nice break from driving. Lamb hill however was a little bit disappointing though we might drop in again next time we go to the lakes. Saturday we got up and drove to Gimmer where i climbed Springbank (E2-) which i thoroughly enjoyed as i climbed it feeling very sick and very dizzy which made the fact i climbed the slabby start all the more pleasing.
Franco and Luke tried 'Eastern Hammer' but neither of them could get past half height on this pumpy problem.
We retreated to Catherdral Quarry. Franco and I were interested to see how it compared to Welsh slate... It's alot more frictiony!
It began to rain and i felt very ill, but luke was 'psyched' for Darklands (E3 5c) which he despatched very efficienctly, in the rain as well. It was quite impressive.
Next day we went to Black crag (Wrynose) which was nice, albeit small. We did the usual stuff there, including 'Glass Slipper' (E2-) and Needle Arete (E3-) and some solos. This was a good day for me as i again felt like shit, but still got some climbing in. I knew once i felt better, the weather could deteriorate. It did, but not after heading to Hodge Close Quarry and then Parrock, where we just messed around on some bolted, slate slabs.
The next two days were shite, as it rained quite a lot so Luke left with Rob and Lotte and the next day Franco and I returned to the North East...

Brown Beck Crag

The day news broke about Ian's death, Neil and Myself were planning on journeying to Goldsborough, but we called this off. Unfortunately the weather had been awful for the week before and it continued to remain shite.
However, finally there was a break in the weather and i decided that it was too late to arrange to climb with anyone else so i raced to Brownbeck Crag to take advantage of the dry weather. I did just this, but i forgot my guidebook.
Luckily, i study my local guidebook a little too much and i could remember the lines and grades for a lot of the routes at Slipstones and Brown Beck crag.
The climbing lived up to the expectations i had for the place, with 'Pella' VS 4C*** and 'Wichita Linesman' HVS 5b** being extremely good routes which would be amazing if a little larger!
There were some other good aretes and 'E' numbers at the crag, but the VS and HVS would make a trip there worthwhile!
I also dropped in on a bit of a Daemon at Slipstones. 'Seven Up' and it's direct start E2 and E3 respectively had evaded my grasp for some time and i knew i could climb them! I did just this and it made my day to be honest!
I intend to climb at Goldsborough this summer and also maybe Healheaugh. I also wouldn't mind climbing some proper limestone, but a local very good looking crag appears to be closed, so im rather disapointed about that.

Summer 2008 - From bad to worse

On the way up the Ben. Ian was soo excited, but he wanted a picture with some Deer first!
Not particularly flattering, but the memories from Smiths Route will last forever!
Ian Soloing 'Inverted V' at Stanage. This seemed very impressive at the time, i was envious!
Again, not exactly flattering, but a hell of a trip and a very good laugh!
Just before Ian fell a fair distance after 'giving up' on the wet upper cracks. Again i was amazed with his climbing

What a fcking, shite summer this has been. Not only has the weather been awful, but my friends have been at the Alps climbing amazing routes while i was left in the UK unable to go aswell! However, as you may have heard a friend of mine, Ian Jackson tragically died in the Alps while climbing. This truly has been a summer of unrivalled sadness. Ian was a good lad, a heck of a climber and he made an impression to everyone he met. The thread on UKC after his death, proves this. He will be missed by everyone that knew him and his loss will be felt, probably forever.

My Summer - 2008

The soloing trip to the Lakes kept me contented for the first few weeks, but i became restless. Desperate for good weather and a new crag i started to look at even more esoteric venues that were easily reachable. Luckily one evening Franco's dad, Neil decided that he was able to go climbing, this was much appreiciated and we went to the nearby safe-bet of Camp Hill. There Neil ascended the good Severe and VS that he wanted and made a determined attempt to second me on the very nice HVS called 'Cling Wrap', something he is going to lead in the future and something i think he will have no problem in completing.

I also, decided that it was time to try 'Ace of Winds', this amazing looking climb has put me off several times, for one because it doesn't LOOK HVS and two, because i had to downclimb from the blank wall at half height!

This time however, i managed to reach the loose blocks. I arranged some decent protection then made a lo-o-ong reach to the top. There was nothing but sloping rock; on Grit this would have been enough, but Camp Hill isn't quite Grit. It's alot courser than the rock at Scugdale or Wainstones, but it didn't have the required friction. I eventually managed to get a high foot lockoff in a small crack under the roof and a blind reach around the roof to, luckily a good lip on the top. This was enough. I topped out on a great route, one that has repelled me two or three times, but i was right, it doesn't look HVS and it isn't!

The next day, i dragged budding climber, Matthew 'Mini' Cooper from Sleights along for a 'introduction' to rock climbing. We spent the day looking at rope technique, climbing technique and placing gear. He is a quick learner and i soon had him seconding me up routes and soloing some easy safe lines. He then lead, albeit dogged 'Longbow' but he was happy enough and i was ecstatic with what he had achieved. I then, asked if he would do me a favour and take a photo or two of me on a line i was yet to try. 'Pinnacle Face' HVS 5c, just looks stupid. The start is definitely 5c or harder and then the upper wall is difficult to protect and not ALOT easier. The guide also says 'use the right arete, if you must!' Personally, if you can't use the right arete, then it is totally eliminate as it is making you do very unnatural moves! Anyhow, the exposure was nice, but it wasn't the line i was hoping for!

Rejuvinated, with the recent improvement in weather i requested that Lewis would come to Eston Nab. Hardly Esoteric in the sense of the word, with it's views across Teesside and it's well used footpath above, popular with the local inhabitance. Parking at the Cross Keys on the A171, (to avoid parking in Eston!) we walked across and i got my first glipse of Eston Nab. "Oh well, it doesn't look too bad" i said, in fact i actually found the backdrop of Teesside an interesting change from Rolling moorland. The dockyards were certainly a better setting than a large group of houses.

The climbing was a tad dissapointing, i was hoping for higher buttresses. Luckily, the trip wasn't a waste, as i soloed alot of lines and then lead a VERY good HVS called, 'The Other'. This line takes a corner crack to a small ledge, then gear can be arranged up some criss-crossing cracks before undercutting a roof and traversing rightwards to allow a pull over to the top. Immense!

Lewis, didn't fancy it. I don't know why he did the hard bit reaching the roof the top section was the reward, but i lowered him anyway.

It was from about 1pm that things got bad. We walked to the monument and i climbed the 'back wall' at E1. Then the air became cooler and then rain drops started, we quickly set off for the car, but we were caught in a heavy rain storm. From this day onward, the summer has been wet, miserable and quite frankly woeful.

A lonely Summer - Soloing

Unable to commit to a trip to the Alps this summer, due to my 'not quite right' knee, i have been left in the UK, while all the other climbers in the area, including Franco have gone to the continent. Lewis has remained, but i feel he will not have the commitment to journey here, there and everywhere and pay for it! Matthew (mini) Cooper, is a longshot as he is a busy person with commitments over climbing, which is fair enough but i hope to take him climbing in the next few weeks. So as a last resort, hopefully Shaun will be around to go climbing with but as yet i have not received an Email.
The weekend just gone, saw me and mum travel to the lakes to see family. This was quite a nice treat and it allowed me to solo some lines that i probably otherwise would have struggled to have gotten around to. The first evening, i travelled to 'Durple Gill' that small slate quarry near Patterdale and soloed the lines me and Franco established there and also a new direct variant, called 'Stalion Twister', due to the Deep Purple/Stormbringer theme. However, i appear to have lost my Belay plate here as well, though i am unsure as to how?!
The next day was a rest day as i felt a tad undertheweather and it was VERY hot, but the following day Flynn (dog) and I raced up Grisedale and i set about soloing the classic routes there, such as 'Sobrenada' Vs 4c**. This is a terrific route, though i climbed this and it's direct finish with a hanging rope, just in case!
I then worked 'Pericles' HVS 5a* before soloing it, this felt about E1 5a soloing, but a very nice route all the same. Similarly, the route at the right of the crag called, 'Morning Slab' which follows a nice scoop up a buttress, given HVS 4c** i decided it was probably just as well onsight soloing it, but i saw two or three gear placements, including one where i thought the crux was! Even so, the ascent i think merited 5a and probably E1 5a** at that!
I'll be happy if the holidays carry on with ascents such as these, i don't mind reducing my grade, if it allows me to climb such nice routes.
Next trip, the East Pennines, to do some Gritstone soloing at spots such as Goldsborough! (I hope)