With my Masters finishing at Leeds Uni, I boshed a couple of days out i'd meant to do for years. Heptonstall to climb Forked Lightning Crack (E2/3) and a visit to Running Hill Pits.
'The Pits' are excellent and I might return in the future, couple of E4/5's that are geared which look ace. However, I made do with a ground up of Iguanodon (E5), flashes of Phaestus (E4), Weavers Wall (E3), Wind Breaker (E2) and Yarn Spinner (E4).
Forked Lightning with Katie was a bit of a treat. We'd spent the day at Standing Stones (my first trip to the Chew Valley) we're we'd boshed a couple of VS's which were very nice. However, I requested a quick trip to Heppy and Katie obliged.... Some cams, a no-hands rest and a bit of jamming/laybacking and I was at the top. Sweaty. Lovely evening, if a tad warm. Great route a true classic. Shame it's not a bit longer!
Eskdale Buttress from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.
Finally, after some more VS bashing around and about, I got a quick shunt and solo in at Eskdale Crag. A crag i've been meaning to start developing for years, I was belayer-less so just decided to wire it and go. A bold, technical start up to around 6m above a steep, but soft landing lands you at a hand ledge. From here, gear is placeable in a vertical crack, but with no friends I soloed the bold and exposed 5c finishing moves. I can't decide if its E5 6b ** or E6 6b **. Basically the finish is E2/3 5c with gear or like E5 5c without but the start is the 6b part. A 6b pull to get onto the arete, then some easier moves to get established ready for a 6a/b sequence which is slightly dynamic. The route is moderately pumpy as well actually. I had a pad attached to a rope but I decided falling off would be unpleasant and no one will hear you scream. Could have felt more serious due to this lonelyness factor?
'The Pits' are excellent and I might return in the future, couple of E4/5's that are geared which look ace. However, I made do with a ground up of Iguanodon (E5), flashes of Phaestus (E4), Weavers Wall (E3), Wind Breaker (E2) and Yarn Spinner (E4).
Forked Lightning with Katie was a bit of a treat. We'd spent the day at Standing Stones (my first trip to the Chew Valley) we're we'd boshed a couple of VS's which were very nice. However, I requested a quick trip to Heppy and Katie obliged.... Some cams, a no-hands rest and a bit of jamming/laybacking and I was at the top. Sweaty. Lovely evening, if a tad warm. Great route a true classic. Shame it's not a bit longer!
Eskdale Buttress from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.
Finally, after some more VS bashing around and about, I got a quick shunt and solo in at Eskdale Crag. A crag i've been meaning to start developing for years, I was belayer-less so just decided to wire it and go. A bold, technical start up to around 6m above a steep, but soft landing lands you at a hand ledge. From here, gear is placeable in a vertical crack, but with no friends I soloed the bold and exposed 5c finishing moves. I can't decide if its E5 6b ** or E6 6b **. Basically the finish is E2/3 5c with gear or like E5 5c without but the start is the 6b part. A 6b pull to get onto the arete, then some easier moves to get established ready for a 6a/b sequence which is slightly dynamic. The route is moderately pumpy as well actually. I had a pad attached to a rope but I decided falling off would be unpleasant and no one will hear you scream. Could have felt more serious due to this lonelyness factor?
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