I haven't updated my blog for a while, because I haven't done any FAs on the Moors until recently. However, I have managed to achieve a couple of targets recently, which while not my hardest or indeed 'best' accomplishments they are non-the-less important to me.
First things first, I FINALLY got myself up Jurassic Scarp (E3 5b **) at Whitestonecliffe. It's been there for years. Ian had done it and Franco and Luke had done it after the traverse but i'd never bothered. I knew it was one of the best long pitches on the Moors. Anyway on a lovely sunny, perhaps too hot day, that I skived off University, I made a quick dispatch of this excellent route. It's pretty intense, quite harrassing I felt in the lower reaches, before an excellent roof and then a pumpy and sort of committing headwall. It probably does need doing sans threads. Don't think it would be E4 5b though...? Hard E3 5b then, I suppose.
Around the same time, after running some errands in Guisborough ran up to Highcliffe and shunted Magic in the Air (E7 6b ***). IT felt fine, bit reachy on the crux but nothing to bad. I could see the rain rolling in from the Pennines so after 2 and a half shunts I ran up it, with spots of rain beginning to fall. Quick whoop at the top and then I legged it down to pack everything up before running back to the car. Still got a soaking but it was worth it! Not a bad couple of hours - if that!
However the news worth writing about is the Smugglers Terrace. Matt has tirelessly been working his way through de-vegetating the crag and bush-whacking paths through the bracken - which this year has been flattened by an easterly wind. Even so, we decided if this crag was to become as popular as it should be, it would need to be less adventurous, as folks just aren't into adventures these days.
Over the period of a couple of weeks this summer a fair few routes at a variety of grades have been boshed. This crag has so much to offer its obscene, but we're slowly working our way through it. It's a shame, I can't understand why people don't go there to do FAs? I'd much rather do 1 FA than 20 soulless routes at Stanage, but each to their own decision.
Smugglers Terrace Aug 2014 from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.
The new route list from the summer is now;
Mullet of Cocktail E2 5c *
Emersion E4 5c *
Privateel E5 6a
Ai No Barramundi E4 6a **
Krill Zone E5 6b *
Clew Garnet VS 4c *
Leviathan E5 6c **
Porpoise Economy E6 6b **
The Swordfish of a Thousand Truths E2 6a
Hake Shake E2 5b
There must be around 20 or 30 more routes to be done on the 7 or 8 buttresses that exist. Some would require a brief effort to clean and others a mammoth effort. I'll steadily be working my way through them, but considering the majority of the lines left will be easier than E1 it would be nice if folk who climb around that grade did them!
It's getting close to being make or break time too, with the easier lines holding the vegetation better than the harder lines only regular visitation will keep the VS's etc in good condition. The harder lines are fine and will be forever. It's a shame people don't venture off the path a bit more but what will be, will be!
First things first, I FINALLY got myself up Jurassic Scarp (E3 5b **) at Whitestonecliffe. It's been there for years. Ian had done it and Franco and Luke had done it after the traverse but i'd never bothered. I knew it was one of the best long pitches on the Moors. Anyway on a lovely sunny, perhaps too hot day, that I skived off University, I made a quick dispatch of this excellent route. It's pretty intense, quite harrassing I felt in the lower reaches, before an excellent roof and then a pumpy and sort of committing headwall. It probably does need doing sans threads. Don't think it would be E4 5b though...? Hard E3 5b then, I suppose.
Around the same time, after running some errands in Guisborough ran up to Highcliffe and shunted Magic in the Air (E7 6b ***). IT felt fine, bit reachy on the crux but nothing to bad. I could see the rain rolling in from the Pennines so after 2 and a half shunts I ran up it, with spots of rain beginning to fall. Quick whoop at the top and then I legged it down to pack everything up before running back to the car. Still got a soaking but it was worth it! Not a bad couple of hours - if that!
However the news worth writing about is the Smugglers Terrace. Matt has tirelessly been working his way through de-vegetating the crag and bush-whacking paths through the bracken - which this year has been flattened by an easterly wind. Even so, we decided if this crag was to become as popular as it should be, it would need to be less adventurous, as folks just aren't into adventures these days.
Over the period of a couple of weeks this summer a fair few routes at a variety of grades have been boshed. This crag has so much to offer its obscene, but we're slowly working our way through it. It's a shame, I can't understand why people don't go there to do FAs? I'd much rather do 1 FA than 20 soulless routes at Stanage, but each to their own decision.
Smugglers Terrace Aug 2014 from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.
The new route list from the summer is now;
Mullet of Cocktail E2 5c *
Emersion E4 5c *
Privateel E5 6a
Ai No Barramundi E4 6a **
Krill Zone E5 6b *
Clew Garnet VS 4c *
Leviathan E5 6c **
Porpoise Economy E6 6b **
The Swordfish of a Thousand Truths E2 6a
Hake Shake E2 5b
There must be around 20 or 30 more routes to be done on the 7 or 8 buttresses that exist. Some would require a brief effort to clean and others a mammoth effort. I'll steadily be working my way through them, but considering the majority of the lines left will be easier than E1 it would be nice if folk who climb around that grade did them!
It's getting close to being make or break time too, with the easier lines holding the vegetation better than the harder lines only regular visitation will keep the VS's etc in good condition. The harder lines are fine and will be forever. It's a shame people don't venture off the path a bit more but what will be, will be!
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