Saturday, 7 September 2013

There are no more crags

The question has been asked - is there any more crags to be found on the Moors? I suspect not, though perhaps if you count one of the forgotten crags being 're-opened'. There is certainly scope for crags such as Rud Scar to get a more modern look?

Anyway, what I do think is that the Moors still holds some 'one climb crags' and short buttresses and this has been proved this week, with the Moors still giving in the form of three separate 'craglets' or 'buttresses'.

Gill Wath, visible from Round Crag was developed by Sam and Matthew with the creation of Gill Wath Eliminate E2 6a * and Wang(?) Wall E3 6b **. Gill Wath climbs a short 5m, vertical wall with a tricky sequence to a break and protectable top out. Wang Wall, tackles all together more technical terrain to the right with poor sidepulls leading to a lurch for a crimp. Both providing explosive short outings ready made for the more boulder-orientated climber... there are a few easier lines to be claimed here too.

Matt making the crux move of Wang Wall  E3 6b **

Matt on the final tricky moves of Wang Wall - E3 6b **

I went to search some rock in Rosedale, which may provide something for the future (its not futuristic climbing, I just can't be arsed to go back) but while there spotted some rock near Middle Ridge Crag. I checked with the oracle of the Rosedale area that is Sam Marks and he indicated there was indeed a piece of rock containing an arete of quality... Tailor made for an after work drop in parking at the Lion Inn. Anyway, after a false start on a dark and midgey horror-fest the main arete was despatched the following evening with a logical easiest-ground following E2 5c and a more strict, but equally as good E3 6a which tackles the right hand side throughout. A great feature. Similarly the central wall, which stands around 6m, is going to provide a tricky route with a long reach to finish!

Hillhouse Nab from Mirage Crag

Hillhouse Nab - King of the Hill E4 5c ***

Finally, while prospecting a weekend or so ago with Sam and Matthew we checked out Hillhouse Nab. A cracking arete sat, untouched and I knew it would provide 'lonely solo'. I returned, on my own, on a windy and chilly afternoon and abseiled the line to clean the holds and have a good look at what was on offer higher up in the hand and foothold department. I was pleasantly surprised and after a good scrub, to remove the stubble-like lichen from the important looking holds, I got psyched for my lonely solo.

Hillhouse Nab - E4 5c *** from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.

It climbs like a dream. Really excellent. I gave it 3 stars, even though its only about 6m or so (maybe 7?) and a grade of E4 5c. I gave the central wall a quick check too... ooh yea, another test piece at E7 7a? with a 6c variation coming in from the arete... Not sure i'll be racing back for that one though, might need cooler conditions! - that said, the recent temperature drop has seen a drastic improvement in my psyche! Autumn is here!
A poor lamb, whose demise can be attributed to the stoat(?) trap it has attached to its rear leg.

No comments: