Sunday, 22 September 2013

Stoupe Brow - The shorter walls

Stoupe Brow is home to a large expanse of rock, some of which are still untouched. Today, Sam and I went back for a scoping trip and also to climb an FA on the left hand 'shorter buttresses'.

The line which climbs on the buttress immediately to the left of the first line of glue-in bolts, "Drilled Sacrilege", struck me as being a possible highball - until i actually looked at it... its 10-12m i should think.

I have previously abseiled down it and found it was extremely clayey, so after a good clean, I shunted the moves as they didn't look too easy...Knacky climbing but fortunately very well protected - should make an ace ground up climb/all guns blazing onsight!

After a lovely start to a pocket which takes gear, a very tricky move gains an OK break and another gear deposit. From here climb straight up the 'headwall' via good crimps/edges. I originally thought it would be E6 6c from the floor however the gear is perfect after I spent an age cleaning out the clay from the pockets, however I subsequently decided its 'only' 6b, albeit a tenuous one, which will provide a hard onsight. The upper wall adds some pump. E5 6b?

Stoupe Brow in morning sunshine (8am) - its shady for the rest of the day

Central Crack E2 climb the middle of the buttress, Fire Dance E6 / F6c climbs the large arete
I warmed up and upped and downed the lower wall twice to get some strength in the old fingers. Then, managed the move first go without re-rehearsal, which surprised me. I plugged some cams in and raced up the upper wall just about avoiding a crippling onset of flash pump. Nice one.

Sam then logically set about disecting the crux move, via very intricate upping and downing until fortunately slipping during a backing out maneuver... He didnt't get it flash or, after the fall, ground up - I think i've got a tad more reach than the young upstart - and obviously I headpointed it !!
The lower walls - The new E5 6b climbs the right most flat buttress of rock in this photo.

Beyond the main buttress, there is much, much more rock

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