Thursday, 21 June 2012


A couple of days at Kilnsey with Conor and Luke proved fruitful, but also left some unfinished business and with July approaching fast, i'm not sure if they'll get done. .. Anyhow, it started with a quick redpoint by Conor, Bojan and Lucy of 'Comedy' (7c) while Luke tried 'Stolen!' (8b) and I got stuck into 'Metal Guru' (7c). 'Metal Guru' seemed to be made up of a frustrating start followed by a series of powerful moves culminating in a throw for a flat-hold... The top section was not too bad. Anyway, a couple of redpoint goes saw some progress with me eventually managing it in two halves. I however lost my interest as it boiled down to one move, the skin on my fingers was sore and i didn't want to go home with nothing. So i turned my attention to the trad...
After chatting with Steve Crowe, he pointed me at 'Butchers Dog' (E4 6a) which i'd noticed on previous visits, so i was stoked to give it a bash. Steepish 6c+?, safe climbing sounded good to me. The traverse left felt like the 6a part to me, with distant gear (a broken wire in a placement!) but soon i was into friendlier climbing, with solid pulls on good holds and locks with excellent gear. Some good rest points and further pulling leads into a steepening section... feeling pumped i headed towards the peg ... Arms weren't screaming but i could feel slightly less grip being gained from the rock, a mixture of unchalked and tiring arms... I abandoned clipping the rather shite looking peg and trended left to easier ground - bold but secure. Excellent.

Butchers Dog - E4 6a **
Photo: Conor Cussell

I really enjoyed this route, certainly an underrated line which gives honest, solid and clean climbing with good gear, after an adequately protected start. I do hate the fact that when getting on trad routes at Kilnsey, you get strange looks! Also, even though i'd eyed the line previously, i was glad Steve and Karin had recommended it as it gave me the impetus to actually get on it.
Luke had already nailed Stolen! which looks wild and starts up the frankly nails sounded 'Cold Steal' (8a/8a+). And he turned he attention to a link up between '50 for 5' (7b+) and 'The Ashes' (7c+) which goes about 8a? Conor was just as quick with his redpoint of 'Sticky Wicket' (7b/7b+).

Luke starting up 50 for 5.

Tricky moves high up the wall

Staying at Luke grandparents spot, the evenings would consist of a wander down to the River Wharfe for a swim. Brisk refreshment after a day getting eaten by midgys. Psyched for this! Food was just as excellent, pasta and veg followed by plentiful volumes of pineapple and plantane (awesome food!) for desert.

The following day Conor and I were interested in doing 'Worlds in Collision' (E3/4) or at least the first pitch of it. This suited us as we both wanted to lead the first pitch and we were primarily sport climbing as a three. After a warm up on Directissima (something i'd done in the past when it was running with water), i belayed Luke on an unsuccessful attempt at the link up. On only the 2nd? Or 3rd RP though he was cruising up the top section and i took some snaps. I then had a quick burn on a 7b i'd dogged up before and fell off at the last bolt, annoyingly - good progress though. One to just keep having a clips in bash on each time i think, as it gets me pumped.
Resting (another redpoint)
Another redpoint, resting at the heel hooks

Techy sequences high up

Conor and I then jumped on Worlds. I lead first, up to the traverse. After eventually (poor reading skills) found the correct traverse line (gardening as i go), i was making steady moves up above the peg. A long reach to a poorish break and a slight traverse left. I was feeling a little harrassed here, I dislike pegs so i backed it up with an ok wire in the break and then telling myself that no move can be hard as its 5c, reached up into a pair of poor pockets. I tried to chill here a bit, but struggled to get comfy, so made a rockover and found, to my relief, a hidden jug. Nice climbing on good holds leads up to a new belay on the right. Conor then quickly lead the line on my gear. Excellent route, well worth doing my only disappointment with it was that it felt tricky E3 5c** for the first pitch, whereas i was hoping it would have the E4 experience - that said, we should have just done the top pitch but that's our mistake to make! Little bit of gardening on the way as well, but thats the joys of Limestone trad.

Conor on Worlds In Collision - E3/4 5c**
(photo: Luke Tilley)

Successful couple of days, really glad i got on some of the trad there. Quite stoked to do the 'Big C' (E4 5c) but its on very popular ground so i doubt i'll ever see it quiet. Next time i go back, suppose i should re-try Metal Guru and maybe think about Central Wall (E4)... but trusting pegs ain't high on my list of enjoyable activities.

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