Tuesday, 6 April 2010

Horrendous Anti-Psyche

I don't even want to write up this day, but hopefully i can use it to make sure i never feel like i did today.
We drove to Whitestonecliffe, to get on the overhanging handcrack of Black Mamba (E3). However, when we arrived the new loose blocks at the base of the crag from the harsh winter and also the fact Black Mamba looks horrendous, made me totally loose all 'psyche'. I looked at the line for the best part of 10minutes trying to see something that made me want to do it, i couldn't and we departed with me saying it was the last time i visited Whitestonecliffe.
Peak Scar was just down the road, so we popped there - with the classic B.B.C (E2) on the hitlist. I'd twice sat under the tower of roofs belaying Franco, and on both tries his attempts to go direct were met with a swit downclimb.
This time however, Franco ran the two pitches into one and got to work 'sending' the roof. He went direct, as always, but this time he actually went for it.
Numerous shards of rock peppered all around me, as he took a whipper from just level with the roof. He was pulling hard on crusty crimps and they didn't stand up to the test.
He got back on and did the route more to the left of the roof, using a footlock and reach and was soon abbing back down the line after it's completion.
I fancied it, but couldn't be arsed - i'm either massively anti-psyched or Ill. I'm going with the latter as i feel decidedly light-headed as i write this. Anywho, i lead up to the roof but couldn't do the move, so Seconded Franco up the crux pitch.
Good moves, but it's a bit wierd for E2. Worth doing, if you like roofs and live in the moors - take some hexes.

1 comment:

Franco Cookson said...

Black mamba is E2 mate ;)