After the disappointment of the Lakes last weekend, i felt optimistic for our usual wednesday off Uni to go climbing. Unfortunately, car drivers were unavailable so i got on the bus up to Caley to see who was about. No one was about so i decided to solo some stuff i hadn't done which mainly meant Tip Off (E2 5b).
It was greasly warm, very humid but ultimately the climbing is very straightforward. So much so i felt confident for an attempt at the right arete, which gets E3. Soloing up 'Rip Off' i attempted to make the move but chickened out (confidence?) jumping for the sloping ledge to the right, which was a ludicrously dangerous move in all honesty, as it looked easier to do than it was. However, that improved my confidence and i jumped back on it for a second bash, in full knowledge that i could jump off - if it went tits up.
Well, what a sketch.
I pulled up to the weird chipped box thing, and put my left foot on a smear - reach up to a small edge and then staddling the arete and with hands bunched together i realised then, that i didn't have enough purchase on the rock, to lauch off backwards onto the awkward-to-land slab. Fuck, what a mistake, with the crack between the two buttresses in waiting. I popped for a small ledge to the right which had a small amount of Chalk on it.
It's good - and it turned out Ewan had chalked it on monday night after he had considered giving it ago.
Speaking of Ewan, the Lanky welsh punter has been training of late and has developed that most inportant of climbing attributes - Confidence. It's skyhigh, running around the Yorkshire Grit like a man possessed he's climbing anything with an E in front of it.
I'm glad my most called upon partner at Leeds, is finally pushing his limits as when i first met him he was clearly capable of more than VS.
That said, soon i'll be the one 'puntering' as i get the feeling he can only get better with training (with which he seems hell bent) and the fact he's the perfect climbing build, lanky and skinny. It has inspired me to maybe start training, as i've never trained properly, though i feel next year will see my developments as i will have a finger board, a nicer area to go running and also i'll be buying a season card for the Leeds Uni Gym... We'll see.
Anyway, after some messing around traversing blocks and doing the horn again and smearing up the Angels Wall block without chips, i decided to wander over to Chevin Buttress.
Arriving, it looked as i imagined it and looked like a lovely place to spend the afternoon.
Long story short i soloed the VS's which are all quality lines, Vampire Ledge being the best tick in my eyes as it takes some pretty exposed terrain on some hidden holds that spice things up, until you find them.
Chevin Buttress is a real classic, the crux on that is superb and then the VS through the bulge is a beaut, a bit dirty to start and definitely the most difficult to solo!
Quite confident i soloed the Unstarred (deserved so for its escapability) E2 to the left of Chevin Buttess that involves one tricky move and then a bold move, then a more straightforward finish near the C.B direct. Confidence flowing, I then tried the Waster (E1) but it felt tricky and far too well protected for leading, to be soloing so i departed quickly.
I checked out the quarry, it looks worthwhile to be honest - The starred HVS's look good fun and the E1 crackline 'No Prisoners' could be a good finger lock test.
Returning to Caley i met Connor and Ben (slightly frustrating), so after a short chat and cool down (it really was boiling) I had a quick tootle up Angel's Wall, finishing the correct direct way and then totally sketched Boot Crack (VS), as i didn't fancy laybacking in the greasy conditions so elected for an armbar and footlock. Bad day for doing slightly silly things, might take it a bit easier this weekend in Wales. Or not.
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