Wednesday 31 March 2010

Kay Nest Crag / Feeding Franco's Insatiable appetite for First Ascents

So, here i am back in the moors - the hive of the climbing world.
It's lashing it down, it feels decidedly cold and i'm feeling pretty un-motivated for anything.
However, the current plan made around 2 hours ago is to get up bright and early before anything will have had a chance to dry off, get in the car and drive to Bilsdale.
From here, walk 30 - 40 minutes up a heinous valley (they all seem to be around there - they keep going for ever, thought at least the bracken will be low) to a crag that no-one has climbed at since the 60's. Kay Nest.
The prime objective of this ridiculous mission; to see the route still graded VS 5a A2. All 30metres of it.
The line, which actually sounds pretty good, tackles a bulging-thin crack and has both bolts and pegs insitu - i can't wait to see them.

Local sources seem to think it was dirty in the 60's... so Christ, this is going to be chossy day out. Made all the better by the fact the weather forecast is for strong winds...therefore, we decided if it was a bit shit, our next stop would be... Roseberry Topping and it's 'sheltered' delights.

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