Wednesday night was used to test this evening cragging theory, and although the clock issue would greatly improve daylight, but there was enough to get a few routes nailed, including the project to the left of Cling Wrap finishing as for the direct, a route we called 'Cling Wrap - Tin Foil Variation' and was a good test of balance and nerve, the top moves being unprotected and reachy, with a balancy pocket manoeuvre to gain the headwall.
Unfortunately an attempt at the E3 'Waves Within' was looked on as 'impossible' until we consulted the guidebook back at home, where we found the start was not direct! but actually gained the flake from the right! Ah well, that leaves Jester HVS, Ace of Winds HVS and Waves Within E3 to be climbed.
The evening was a success however, as i reclimbed Franco's tough traverse at a sustained 5c, and also the delicate 'Mad Axeman' HVS as well as Cling Wrap Direct and the F.A, E1 and E1/2. I was particularly happy with these, as i certainly found the top out bold and reachy off crimps and tiny edges for your feet. I didn't fancy the fall, which was only about 6/7 metres, but still.
Unfortunately blurred, but this is the pocket section on the F.A (Quite Artistic i thought!)
No comments:
Post a Comment