Thursday 20 March 2008

The plan for 2008

The beginning of 2008 started well; good weather, various holidays and most importantly the homework just wasn't there so climbing could be done with little consequence. However, come mid February, this changed. The weather worsened and as i sit here now the rain batters the window to my right, seising for only seconds before the next wave comes in, also such things as Chemistry coursework and 'mock' examinations have blighted many attempts of getting on the shed wall!
Currently bored out of my head, i've decided to list the plans for i have for 2008.

2008 Targets - Climbing
0. Anything Hard - Ongoing
1. Don't Fluff It (E4) - Stanage
2. Fred (E4) - Ravenswick Quarry

1. E3 at least 10 times. - Incomplete
1. West Sphinx Direct - Wainstones
2. Prowess - Scugdale (Scot's)
3. Above Us Only Sky - Polldubh
4. Psyched Out - Bleak How
5. New Dimensions - Scugdale (Barker's)
6. Sculptured Arete - Scugdale (Barker's)
7. Black Magic - Ravenswick Quarry
8. Bummelzug - Ravenswick Quarry
9. Needle Arete - Black Crag (Wrynose Pass)
10. Veteren - Rylstone

2. Keep the E1 and E2 onsight ticks coming - Ongoing
1. Ali Baba (Wainstones) - E2
2. West Sphinx Climb (Wainstones) - E2
3. Sesame (Wainstones) - E1
4. Morning Wall (Cockshaw Hill) - E2
5. Barren Waste (Slipstones) - E2
6. Keep Peddaling (Stanage) - E2
7. Fool's Gold (Bus Stop Quarry) - E1
8. Space Truckin' (Slipstones) - E1
9. Horse Power - Eagle Crag (Grisedale) - E2
10. Fever Pitch - Raven's Scar - E2
11. Satchmo - Raven's Scar - E2
12. Eve (Right Hand) - Scugdale (Scot's) - E2
13. Summit Crisis - Wainstones - E2
14 Left Hand Variation - Wainstones - E2
15. White Wall - Ravenswick Quarry - E2
16. Franco's Wall - Ravenswick Quarry - E2
17. Solstice - Ravenswick Quarry - E1/2
18. Crazy Diamond & Monument Crack - Rylstone - E2 & E1
19. Wombat - Highcliffe Nab - E1
20. Glass Slipper - Black Crag (Wrynose) - E2

3. Work E4/5, on routes that i don't really want to onsight. E.G - Pyscho Syndicate - Incomplete

4. Try my hand at a bit of bouldering, probably at Slipstones - Incomplete
Too Hard! - 'Sulky Little Boys' looked Desperate!
1. V7 Traverse - Ravenswick Quarry - Worked!

5. Try my hand at Sport climbing, aiming for F6c/7a - dependant on holiday!
Welsh Slate - Whizz Bang F6c - Rested on Bolt though.

5.5 Try to get some winter routes under my belt. Aiming for a III/IV if im lucky, but any winter routes will do this year! - COMPLETED - Green Gully IV
6. Climb 'Difficile' / 'Tres Difficle' in the Alps, if i can get there this year. (Unable to complete due to knee)

7. Complete the 'Middlehead project' - Incomplete
Probably not going to happen, though i intend to return and climb 'Beowulf'

8. Climb/help Franco on his FA at Ingleby, 'Physical Graffiti'. - Incomplete
9. Climb around the UK on many different rocktypes - Ongoing
So Far: Sandstone, Gritstone, Quarried Grit, Slate, Mica Schist, Limestone, Magnesian Limestone, Rhyolite.

10. Climb more Multipitch Extremes in the Lakes/Wales/Scotland. - Ongoing
1. Post Mortem - Eagle Crag (Borrowdale) - E3 (Not finished but alot learned!)
2. Horse Power - Eagle Crag (Grisedale) - E1/2 (First pitch is a different route)
3. Spring Bank - Gimmer Crag (Langdale) - E2 (First pitch is a different route)
11. Attempt 'The Wall' at Oak Crag - Incomplete/HARD
Had a look, it seemed a tad hard!
12. Free climb the Aid line at Kay Nest - Incomplete / Impossible
No, doesn't look like we'll go here. If i go down Billsdale i'll do the Classic of the Valley at Highcrag
13. Climb the unclimbed face at Turkey Nab - Incomplete / Impossible
Had a gander... looked possible but dangerous!
14. Climb the 'imposing' face at Kepwick - Incomplete / Impossible

15. Have a go at 'Wedge Route' at Cringle Crag - Incomplete
Visited - Looked fine but it was seeping. We consoled ourselves with a Free ascent of Terry's Dilema! :-) Will return if we get a dry spell next year probably!
16. Climb at least 5 routes on my UKC Wishlist! - Ongoing - Upgraded to ......?! :-)
1. Clapham Junction (HVS) - Polldubh - Done
2. Ali Baba (E2) - Wainstones - Done
3. West Sphinx Direct (E3) - Wainstones - Done
4. Jackdaw Wall (E2) - Wainstones - Done
5. Satchmo (E2) - Raven's Scar - Done
6. Fever Pitch (E2) - Raven's Scar - Done
7. New Dimensions (E3) - Scugdale (Barker's) - Done
8. Sculptured Arete (E3) - Scugdale (Barker's) - Done
9. Gehenna! (HVS or E2? ;-) - Beacon Scar - Done
10. Needle Arete (E3) - Black Crag (Wrynose) - Done
11. Jumping Jack Flash (E2) - Goldsborough - Done
12. Crazy Diamond (E2) - Rylstone - Done
13. Ace of Winds (HVS) - Rylstone - Done

2008 Targets - Physical/Mental

1. Attempt more climbs with Roofs, in order to beat my nemesis!
1. Ali Baba (Wainstones) -E2
2. Mind Release {Solo} (Cockshaw Hill) - E2
3. Horse Power (Eagle Crag - Grisedale) - E2
4. Dat Der (Peak Scar) - VS
5. Pericles {Solo} (Eagle Crag - Grisedale) - HVS
6. Ace of Winds (Camp Hill) - HVS
7. The Other (Eston Nab) - HVS
8. Spring Bank (Gimmer) - E1/2
9. Gehenna (Beacon Scar) - HVS (Not truly a Roof just a big Niche)
10. Monument Crack (Rylstone) - E1 (Tackled the Roof without gear in order to combat fear)

2. Lost 1/2 a stone at least, but really aiming for somewhere near a Stone to bring me to 10.7s
Trying - seem to be skinnier since the wales trip!
No weight lost!
3. Work on upper body strength and finger strength for slabs and for Roofs. - Ongoing

4. Fix knee and build up the 1/2 inch waste on my left thigh. - Ongoing
Apparently i need to get on with it... hopefully this is the case and it will get better. Im undecided

5. Run, at least twice a week once the knee is fixed!

6. Take some lead falls on Gear just to gain some trust. - Ongoing
1. Ben Nevis and Polldubh!!

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