A brief round up of this years additions to the North York Moors.
Grey Earths Scar (Goathland) AKA Mallyon Spout:
Pussy Riot SS (7a), Money For Nothing (7a), Mikail Khordorkovsky SS (7a), Midnight Sun (E5 6b) and Arctic 30 (6a). There is also at least one hard, excellent project.
Glaisdale Rigg Quarries:
A few nice bouldering additions, plus Kingmaker (E2 5b). Then the 'Hall Wall' provided some of the best highballs on the Moors with Ivanhoe (E5 6b), Franziskaner (E6 6c), Gnaedl Maedl (E6 6a) and Top Wizard (E6 7a) which is just around the corner. Still a couple of projects left.
March saw the first forays to what would become Maidens Bluff.... a huge find for the Moors this year.
Maidens Bluff:
Jugendstil (E5 6b), Archaeopteryx (E6 6c), Jungfrau (E6 6b), Iron Maiden (E6 6c), Plasticman (E7 7a) & Splice The Mainbrace (E5 6a).
Hillhouse Nab was fully worked out with the addition of Present Perfect (E7 7a), Pretertium (E7 7a) and Penthouse Perfection (E7 6c). All these climbs are short bouldery solos above a less than ideal landing. The perfect rock is well worth a visit though.
Kay Nest was finally given a proper visit. The addition of Harbinger (E4 6b) and Man on the Edge (E5 6b) were a start of things to come at this sleeping giant of a crag. Later in the year the hanging slab was nearly fully developed with the additon of Flashpoint (E4 5b), Blaze of Glory (E6 6a) and Trailblazer (E5 5c). Very bold stuff, but ultimately steady slabby solos.
Our love-affair with Danby continued with Elysian Fields (E7 6a), Infinity in a Grain of Sand (E9 6c) and the super hard 'Jesus Project' getting ticked as Fly Agaric (E8 7a). Later in the season the addition of an excellent highball comparable to the best on the Moors and elsewhere 'Anubis' (E6 6b) was the best of the action. Two super bold solos Powerslave (E6 6a) and Ebola Tombola (E7 6b) were notable... Finally the Warburton brothers added the forked crack of Amun-Ra at a grade somewhere between VS 4c and E1 5a. No successful repeats yet...
Thorgill was dragged kicking and screaming into the modern day with the additions of Wheat From the Chaff (E6 6c) (Haha Fiend) and Parochial Master (E7 7b) as well as the bold, but steady and maybe E4 Turbulent Cascade (E6 6a).
Smugglers Terrace was finally given the attention it deserved with numerous additions to its buttresses; namely:
The Basstard (E6 6c), Porpoise Economy (E6 6b), Ai No Barramuni (E4 6a), Marbled In Stone (E2 5b), Thanks for All the Fish (HVS 5b), Krill Zone (E6 6c), Leviathan (E6 6c), Clew Garnet (MVS 4b), Babel Fish (HVS 5b) and the first efforts on the 'Fox Holes' buttress with three routes between VS and HVS the best argubly being the right hand side of the sandy tower which gives an interesting HVS 4c - Hard of Herring.
Development slowed down somewhat towards the end of the year with poorer weather, less time and less people around. However, notable additions were made thought mainly previously described (At Kay Nest, Smugglers Terrace and Danby). However, one of the best offerings to the Moors yet is a bold, dynamic and technical arete which is easily a match for Magic in the Air. Sanctuary (E6 6b) climbs the left arete of the impressive and as yet unclimbed Eskdale Wall. Plenty of projects left here!
A very satisfying year. What lies in wait for the next year? A taster:
Kay Nest
The Old Aid Line ~ E9 7a
Arete E8 7b
Grooved Arete ~ E7 6c
Cracked Slab to Arete ~E4 6b
Roofed Grooves 1 ~ E3 6a
Roofed Grooves 2 ~ E2 5c
Roofed Grooves 3 ~ E4 6b
Smugglers Terrace
Sole Direct ~E8 7a
Illusion Wall ~E9 7a
Glaisdale Quarries
Webesque Project ~E6 6a
Flakes Project ~E5 6c
Whitehill
Landslip Arete ~E8 7a
Goathland
Prow Direct E10?
Prow Crimp Project Font 7c+?
Prow Right Side ~E7 6c
Eskdale Buttress
The Walls - LOADS but all 6c or harder...
The Arete E4 5c?
Finger Crack E1 5c?
Stoupe Brow - (loads of time needed here)
On Crack ~E7 6b
Barry E8 6b?
Futuristic Arete E11?
Maidens Bluff
Sunrise Wall E10?
Futuristic Herring Gull Project E8 7a (classic!)
Grey Earths Scar (Goathland) AKA Mallyon Spout:
Pussy Riot SS (7a), Money For Nothing (7a), Mikail Khordorkovsky SS (7a), Midnight Sun (E5 6b) and Arctic 30 (6a). There is also at least one hard, excellent project.
Glaisdale Rigg Quarries:
A few nice bouldering additions, plus Kingmaker (E2 5b). Then the 'Hall Wall' provided some of the best highballs on the Moors with Ivanhoe (E5 6b), Franziskaner (E6 6c), Gnaedl Maedl (E6 6a) and Top Wizard (E6 7a) which is just around the corner. Still a couple of projects left.
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| Franziskaner |
March saw the first forays to what would become Maidens Bluff.... a huge find for the Moors this year.
Maidens Bluff:
Jugendstil (E5 6b), Archaeopteryx (E6 6c), Jungfrau (E6 6b), Iron Maiden (E6 6c), Plasticman (E7 7a) & Splice The Mainbrace (E5 6a).
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| Maiden's Topo |
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| Hillhouse |
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| Man on the Edge - Kay Nest |
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| Elysian Fields |
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| Fly Agaric |
Thorgill was dragged kicking and screaming into the modern day with the additions of Wheat From the Chaff (E6 6c) (Haha Fiend) and Parochial Master (E7 7b) as well as the bold, but steady and maybe E4 Turbulent Cascade (E6 6a).
Smugglers Terrace was finally given the attention it deserved with numerous additions to its buttresses; namely:
The Basstard (E6 6c), Porpoise Economy (E6 6b), Ai No Barramuni (E4 6a), Marbled In Stone (E2 5b), Thanks for All the Fish (HVS 5b), Krill Zone (E6 6c), Leviathan (E6 6c), Clew Garnet (MVS 4b), Babel Fish (HVS 5b) and the first efforts on the 'Fox Holes' buttress with three routes between VS and HVS the best argubly being the right hand side of the sandy tower which gives an interesting HVS 4c - Hard of Herring.
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| Plaice Lost in Time - Smugglers Terrace |
Development slowed down somewhat towards the end of the year with poorer weather, less time and less people around. However, notable additions were made thought mainly previously described (At Kay Nest, Smugglers Terrace and Danby). However, one of the best offerings to the Moors yet is a bold, dynamic and technical arete which is easily a match for Magic in the Air. Sanctuary (E6 6b) climbs the left arete of the impressive and as yet unclimbed Eskdale Wall. Plenty of projects left here!
 |
| Triptonite - Tarn Hole |
A very satisfying year. What lies in wait for the next year? A taster:
Kay Nest
The Old Aid Line ~ E9 7a
Arete E8 7b
Grooved Arete ~ E7 6c
Cracked Slab to Arete ~E4 6b
Roofed Grooves 1 ~ E3 6a
Roofed Grooves 2 ~ E2 5c
Roofed Grooves 3 ~ E4 6b
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| Project at Kay Nest |
Sole Direct ~E8 7a
Illusion Wall ~E9 7a
Glaisdale Quarries
Webesque Project ~E6 6a
Flakes Project ~E5 6c
Whitehill
Landslip Arete ~E8 7a
Goathland
Prow Direct E10?
Prow Crimp Project Font 7c+?
Prow Right Side ~E7 6c
Eskdale Buttress
The Walls - LOADS but all 6c or harder...
The Arete E4 5c?
Finger Crack E1 5c?
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| Eskdale Arete + Buttress |
Stoupe Brow - (loads of time needed here)
On Crack ~E7 6b
Barry E8 6b?
Futuristic Arete E11?
Maidens Bluff
Sunrise Wall E10?
Futuristic Herring Gull Project E8 7a (classic!)
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