Sunday, 16 March 2014

Turbulent Cascade - Thorgill

A project of mine for about a year. I stuck a stake in and shunted the line a while ago but it was a tad damp and I considered it a bit bold to just 'do'. However a windy day suited an East facer and I asked if we could return to polish this 'back of the mind' climb off. Franco was psyched to look at Parochial Direct which i'm also pretty stoked for.

Parochial Master
It didn't take long to remember the sequence and get ready. It was still damp but only on the 'E2 5a' section at the top so I was happy to go for it. It starts on two small crimps, from where a big span out right leads to a good hold. From here smeary feet allow a second big reach and hold match above a landing which doubles the distance you fall due to its steepness. At this point you can get a small cam in, which while not being excellent is certainly OK. An easy step right then gains the arete. This is unfortunate, if the line forged away direct up the wall it would be * or ** but it just doesn't it rocks right and up the easy but bold arete and groove you finish. There is a ferny ledge to the right but it's a 'hollow' ledge! It just sort of bridges the gap in a strange chimney.

I called it Turbulent Cascade, as that's what I envisage if you fluff the crux and fall down the steep gully landing! All in all certainly not the best route i've put up but that's definiately not to say it isn't good! We're just finding some absolute gems at the moment...  it was strange it felt almost old school, a bit like some of the harder solo lines from the previous generations like Moonflower or Peel Out etc etc.

Turbulent Cascade E6 6a - Thorgill from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.


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