Friday, 30 March 2012

Moors in March - Humbug, Boulby, Clemmitt's and Glaisdale Woods

Returning to the moors after term finished and my week in Northern Ireland on fieldwork, i blasted up to Scugdale on the drive home from Leeds, just to make use of the chilly evening after a bright, clear day. I had reduced my food intake while in Ireland and felt light on the day, so after warming up on a few classic solos, i popped my pads down and tried Humbug.
I had been told that using the flat hold on the left made this route more like eng.6b rather than 6c and sure enough it went after a few goes. The method without the hold left felt doable too, but i would like a spotter really as that rock looks awkward to land on!

Couple of days ago i headed to Boulby with my bro and 80's Pete. It was a really warm day and i struggled to climb much hard and just ended up softening my tips up. I did a few nice bits and pieces. A 'hammered' slab contained a few nice slab problems around f5 and then the steep, flake crack on the steep side which goes at about f6b+ from sit. Boulby is a nice little place - a lot of rock! Shame the crag looks too chossy but the outlook is beautiful and the walk in, momentary.

Clemmitt's with Sam on an evening was another 'wasted day'. With no daytime partner and massive expense to drive to Smugglers/Ravenscar etc i was unable to make the most of the completely dry moors by visiting north facers. However, i decided an evening trip to an east facer would hopefully be cool enough to climb. It was, just about.
Sam and I warmed up on 'Ground Effect' boulder doing the 6a and 6b left wall and left arete and then i rather slowly managed Paradise Traverse 7a, which was soapy in the lingering heat. Lovely little climb which is odd, as it has big hand and footholds but still feels tricky.

Finally, my bro and I had an evening wander around Glaisdale woods. Nick wanted me to look at the craglets at the top and after a good stomp around, we walked down to the bottom boulders and I climbed Lee's 'Dreamcatcher' arete, above the den/cave, 3rd go after a couple of false starts - nearly flashed the fooker!
The arete is good, climbing on pockets early on before making use of the arete and holds on the face. For my ascent i started lower than in Lee's video pulling up to put my heel in a big pocket. I then did sit down variations, one utilising a block i later realised was not part of the boulder itself (!) and was infact part of the den, so the stand start is probs best for sure.

Want to go and find Lees 'The Cutter' but he's as yet not disclosed where it is...

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