Sunday, 11 September 2011

Farndale Fayre - E5 6b**

A went up for look at Farndale Fayre the other day, with Franco in wales i decided i might have been able to work the moves, then solo the line - saving a bit of time. However, upon abbing the line and checking/cleaning the holds i realised the moves looked tricky and i failed to figure out the moves past the 'arete pinch'.

Steve and Karin journied to Round Crag yesterday, quickly checking many of the lines, including Farndale Fayre. Utilising this opportunity to finally meet Steve and Karin, i went up too and managed to figure out the moves past the zero friend on a Top Rope.

Unfortunately, time and weather prevented a lead so i returned today with Franco, intent to get the line done as the climbing and position is excellent!

It was windy - this 'hurricane' must be coming and it felt really hard to hold the positions on the arete as a result. However, after a few trial runs and placing the friend from the ledge, which is tricky, I felt i could go for it, wind or no wind.

Starting moves

The climb was fine, initial reaches establishes you on the line and then a tricky sequence popping up to an arete pinch, then a massive heel throw allows the bold, upper arete to be gained. Loved it! The friend protects the moves up til the ledge holds on the left, from here you're soloing.

The arete-pinch reach
Amazing route, with powerful climbing to compliment the other brilliant routes on this quality pinnacle. What a day out you could have - Fresh Arete, Honey Arete, Farndale Fayre for E5 aretes and then the rest of the crag of course!

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